I had a similar problem with a old Tecumseh powered snow thrower, the problem turned out to be the gas cap was not venting and then starving the motor of fuel. To solve I started to put the gas cap on loosely and never had a issue with it again.
Might work for this application, but I have found that too big for dirt bike jets and smaller engines. You also have to be careful that you don't bore out the hole too much with the harder steel.Copper wire is too soft, too weak, and too flexible for this kind of job. You need a very thin steel wire for this. The best wire I have found for this job is the steel wire inside of twist ties. Just strip the plastic or paper off of it. The best parts about this wire are that it is the right thickness, it is strong, it is stiff, it is plentiful, and it is free.
To the OP, you have something plugging the main jet. You're going to have to poke a wire through it.
IDK, I have poked this wire through literally thousands of small engine carburetor jets. I used to buy twist tie by the roll and used it almost hourly. I know it works and I'm just trying to help everyone out with my knowledge and experience. And yes, without putting my hands on it myself, IMO he has a restriction in the carburetor main jet.Might work for this application, but I have found that too big for dirt bike jets and smaller engines. You also have to be careful that you don't bore out the hole too much with the harder steel.
I don't think his problem is the carb anyway in this case.
Helpful thanks. The cable is taunt when the lever is depressed but I suppose taunt can be subjective. Guess I should search for the part number for the handle as I assume I could have slack in the line from that as a starting point.While you are holding down the deadman lever on the handle, the cable should be taut and pulling part 2 well away from being underneath and grounding the contact point that kills the ignition. Note that part 2 also has a brake pad to more quickly stop the engine and blade from turning when the deadman lever is released.
The cable can stretch out over time so that no longer works though.
Did you find the problem ?Helpful thanks. The cable is taunt when the lever is depressed but I suppose taunt can be subjective. Guess I should search for the part number for the handle as I assume I could have slack in the line from that as a starting point.
Fairly confident it is stretch in the cable causing the kill switch to not disconnect as @mk378 suggested for mine. Re-assembled everything as is and put an extra link on the spring that controls the kill switch, continues to start and run for a few minutes, haven't tested it longer than that. I'll likely mow today or tomorrow and see how it goes, but pretty confident. I want to find the correct replacement handle given I think I might not be getting the cable as taunt as I think, but being a cheapskate and given the mower was free, I have to track down one that is pretty cheap and haven't found one yet.Did you find the problem ?
I just started having problems with my mower . Starts right up and runs for a minute or two and dies . I bought some Seafoam and ran it for 10 minutes and now in runs fine so dirt some how got into the fuel system and it wouldn't run wright and I had already used the mower several times this year .