Sludged 2010 Cobalt 2.2 making noises

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Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Take the valve cover off and drop the oil pan. By a 12 pack of Berryman B-12 Chemtool and use 6 cans on the top end and 6 cans on the bottom. Run 2 short OCIs and you will be a clean as practical under the circumstances. The whole treatment including new gaskets would be less than $100 and the sludge would be gone.
You need to calm down. Using that much common sense in one post makes people upset. Much easier to cry & whine about how poorly a engine is engineered because you can't do 50,000 mile OCI's.
JitteryWarlikeAmericancicada.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BufordTJustice
I owned an 07 Cobalt 2.2 ecotec. I ran syn 5w-30 according to the oil life monitor (wrong decision for long term performance), which usually ended up being close to 9-10k on OCIs with full syn oil and an M1 or Puro Syn filter. Filter always looked like [censored] at the end of an OCI (partially collapsed and filthy). And, no, this wasn't from install (I checked; the crush was not due to the cap being tightened). Sold it at 130k with some top-end clatter.

For this motor, ST synthetic 5w-30 at 1k intervals with a FU or M1 filter, with some seafoam added to the crankcase for the last 100 miles of each OCI. Do not go thinner. 10w-30 synthetic would be just fine as well.


Thanks for the input. From my research it Seems like these engines are prone to sludge, and shorter OCIs are really the only way to combat this endemic problem in the Ecotec engines.

Out of curiosity, why would you not go thinner? My thought is that since it still has good compression there is no reason to go with heavier weight oil, but going lighter seems to be a way to get more oil to the top of the engine and/or through narrowed sludged oil passages.

Thoughts?
confused.gif



Quote:

Think I’d do this … by a package of filters on eBay … rotate a few brands of low cost Dexos oil … don’t push it too hard … don’t go too far from help …


thumbsup2.gif





Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Take the valve cover off and drop the oil pan. By a 12 pack of Berryman B-12 Chemtool and use 6 cans on the top end and 6 cans on the bottom. Run 2 short OCIs and you will be a clean as practical under the circumstances. The whole treatment including new gaskets would be less than $100 and the sludge would be gone.



You need to calm down. Using that much common sense in one post makes people upset. Much easier to cry & whine about how poorly a engine is engineered because you can't do 50,000 mile OCI's.





That is a big job for someone who just learned how to change oil to do solo...

No one is debating that these problems aren't the result of neglect but yes, making such a critically important engine component out of plastic that will be bathed in scalding hot engine oil is an example of garbage engineering any way you look at it. Especially when they do fail, it is always the same piece, always broken in the same spot...
33.gif
 
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: BufordTJustice
I owned an 07 Cobalt 2.2 ecotec. I ran syn 5w-30 according to the oil life monitor (wrong decision for long term performance), which usually ended up being close to 9-10k on OCIs with full syn oil and an M1 or Puro Syn filter. Filter always looked like [censored] at the end of an OCI (partially collapsed and filthy). And, no, this wasn't from install (I checked; the crush was not due to the cap being tightened). Sold it at 130k with some top-end clatter.

For this motor, ST synthetic 5w-30 at 1k intervals with a FU or M1 filter, with some seafoam added to the crankcase for the last 100 miles of each OCI. Do not go thinner. 10w-30 synthetic would be just fine as well.


Thanks for the input. From my research it Seems like these engines are prone to sludge, and shorter OCIs are really the only way to combat this endemic problem in the Ecotec engines.

Out of curiosity, why would you not go thinner? My thought is that since it still has good compression there is no reason to go with heavier weight oil, but going lighter seems to be a way to get more oil to the top of the engine and/or through narrowed sludged oil passages.

Thoughts?
confused.gif



Quote:

Think I’d do this … by a package of filters on eBay … rotate a few brands of low cost Dexos oil … don’t push it too hard … don’t go too far from help …


thumbsup2.gif





Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Take the valve cover off and drop the oil pan. By a 12 pack of Berryman B-12 Chemtool and use 6 cans on the top end and 6 cans on the bottom. Run 2 short OCIs and you will be a clean as practical under the circumstances. The whole treatment including new gaskets would be less than $100 and the sludge would be gone.



You need to calm down. Using that much common sense in one post makes people upset. Much easier to cry & whine about how poorly a engine is engineered because you can't do 50,000 mile OCI's.





That is a big job for someone who just learned how to change oil to do solo...

No one is debating that these problems aren't the result of neglect but yes, making such a critically important engine component out of plastic that will be bathed in scalding hot engine oil is an example of garbage engineering any way you look at it. Especially when they do fail, it is always the same piece, always broken in the same spot...
33.gif



Probably more out there than you realize … our Ecotec is at 105k and pristine in the head … 7k OCIs with M1
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CMFYOfhTltQ
 
My 05 Cobalt bought new now has 296K on it. Valve cover never off, original chains, guides and tensioners. No startup rattle. This thing is the Energizer Bunny. Two others in the family, 06 and 07 - I have changed the cam chain tensioner (one on rear of engine) on both of those around 120K due to cold start rattle. First time (on both) I didn't take off valve cover and "release" spring-loaded tensioner, figured oil pressure and chain guide movement would do it. Did them both correctly within same year. Apparently the 05 was a better design? Those tensioners are super easy to change. The balance shaft chain tensioner is internal I believe under front cover.
 
Originally Posted By: jk_636

That is a big job for someone who just learned how to change oil to do solo...

No one is debating that these problems aren't the result of neglect but yes, making such a critically important engine component out of plastic that will be bathed in scalding hot engine oil is an example of garbage engineering any way you look at it. Especially when they do fail, it is always the same piece, always broken in the same spot...
33.gif



What do you think your 4.7L Magnum & 3.0L Duratech have in them?? Neglect either one of those like that & see what happens! You probably won't be asking how to clean up sludge....
 
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: jk_636

That is a big job for someone who just learned how to change oil to do solo...

No one is debating that these problems aren't the result of neglect but yes, making such a critically important engine component out of plastic that will be bathed in scalding hot engine oil is an example of garbage engineering any way you look at it. Especially when they do fail, it is always the same piece, always broken in the same spot...
33.gif



What do you think your 4.7L Magnum & 3.0L Duratech have in them?? Neglect either one of those like that & see what happens! You probably won't be asking how to clean up sludge....



Whether its making critical engine components out of plastic or jumping off of a bridge...the same rule applies:

Just because all of your friends are doing it, doesn't make it a good idea.

Go to youtube and search "Chevy cobalt 2.2," look at the first 20 of 20000000 submissions, and you tell me if the Engineers at GM got this one right. Spoiler alert: video after video of poor souls lamenting the fact they own Cobalts, as they are tearing their engines apart because their timing system is shot due to the SAME plastic guides breaking in the SAME spot EVERY time.

But this is the vehicle he owns and we are doing our best to save/prolong its life as much as possible.

Ignoring the possibility of a problem like this, endemic to this specific motor would be foolish when our goal is trying to keep it alive.
 
Reminds me of this Cadillac CTS I picked up a few years ago. Ran fine except for timing chain codes. Dealer pulled a valve cover and voided the warranty.

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Towed it home, bought some cans of Gunk, box of q-tips, rolls of paper towels, bottle of Advil.
Took the front cover off too.

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12 hours later with the use tweezers, forceps, scrapers and dental picks, I got it cleaned up and had the timing chains, gears and tensioners replaced.

large.jpg


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That is absolutely disgusting!
sick.gif


I cant believe it ran fine!?!?!

Any word on how (in)frequently the oil was changed, if ever?

How did it run after you got it all cleaned up?
 
Originally Posted By: atikovi
It ran fine before and it ran fine after. Couldn't tell the difference except no CEL after.


I assume you bought it with zero service records.
 
Originally Posted By: Tahoe4Life
Originally Posted By: atikovi
It ran fine before and it ran fine after. Couldn't tell the difference except no CEL after.


I assume you bought it with zero service records.


Correct but it was an auction car and looked gorgeous. A 2009 I got in 2010 but had over 90,000 miles.

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Last edited:
What causes the partially collapsed filter? My daughter has a 2010 Cobalt with the 2.2L. Car has about 98,000 miles on it. When I did the second oil change after she had bought it, I noticed the filter was partially collapsed. I don't remember the first one being like that. She had about 6,000 miles on this oil change.

The car also set codes for both camshaft position actuator solenoid control valves. I pulled both out and cleaned them even thought the screens were not really dirty and re-installed them. I reset the codes and they have not come back.
 
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The bypass valve is built into the oil filter cap. It might be worth investing in one. GM sells the filter and cap together with a new o ring. Using a filter with a wire backed medial may also help. Many of the filters sold for these engines do not have center tube that runs all the way from top to bottom. I try to avoid them for the extra strength of a complete center tube.
 
These are freaking foools who should be taking public transportation or ride a bicycle.
Not an automobile, only dummb head morrons think this is OK.
 
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/transpurple100.png

This is the filter used in our 2015 Sonic 1.8l . Is it similar to the one in the OP's Cobalt ?

All the ones I have changed out were intact & in pretty good shape .


This is the filter he is currently using for his monthly OCIs

http://www.fram.com/parts-search/CH9018/...IuiYBPVvFggAukA

I didn't realize the cartridge filters had a history of collapse and frankly I'm surprised the original filter we pulled wasn't. Not to paint the devil on the wall, but you would think if any vehicle would have a collapsed filter...
 
Different from what I use .

I change oil & filter about 4,000 - 4,500 miles . 55% & 5% on the OLM .

As I said , I have never had a collapsed filter on the Sonic .

 
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