Sludged 2010 Cobalt 2.2 making noises

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jk_636

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Good to know. It looks like his next vehicle may be a Sonic. GM not being my first choice, but it looks like this one is priced to move.
 
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The 296K Cobalt has had its share of collapsed filters, not sure why. Have used Fram, AC Delco, Mobil 1, STP and whatever Firestone uses. Never paid enough attention to develop any pattern. I did start putting the new filter in the housing on engine FIRST - then screwing on the top (used to always do it the other way). I honestly don't remember if that has made any difference either.
 

4WD

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Originally Posted By: 379KITTY
The 296K Cobalt has had its share of collapsed filters, not sure why. Have used Fram, AC Delco, Mobil 1, STP and whatever Firestone uses. Never paid enough attention to develop any pattern. I did start putting the new filter in the housing on engine FIRST - then screwing on the top (used to always do it the other way). I honestly don't remember if that has made any difference either.
always snapped them into the cap first and never had a single collapse … all AC Delco made by Hengst or Hengst direct
 

jk_636

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Originally Posted By: 379KITTY
The 296K Cobalt has had its share of collapsed filters, not sure why. Have used Fram, AC Delco, Mobil 1, STP and whatever Firestone uses. Never paid enough attention to develop any pattern. I did start putting the new filter in the housing on engine FIRST - then screwing on the top (used to always do it the other way). I honestly don't remember if that has made any difference either.
Your cobalt has 296k miles on it? That is an incredible amount of miles for anything much less a Chevy cobalt. How much work has it required so far?
 
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Hard for some to believe I know. Alternator at about 235-240K. Heater core at 250K or so. Shift solenoid (2-3 shift) in transaxle shortly after that. Bank one O2 sensor somewhere after 280K, water pump around 290K, just replaced oil sending unit this week (it started leaking oil thru plug in connector). Otherwise just shocks, struts, tires, batteries. Still original a/c system never opened or added to, original fuel pump. It still drives tight, all power window motors original. Pass rear door electric lock getting lazy, requires more than one attempt to lock.
 
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We never expected or guessed it would last this long. Especially for a car that was around $15K new. I'm guessing the fact that it is definitely daily driven - may have helped - otherwise no idea. Basic maintenance.
 

dishdude

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Originally Posted By: 379KITTY
Hard for some to believe I know. Alternator at about 235-240K. Heater core at 250K or so. Shift solenoid (2-3 shift) in transaxle shortly after that. Bank one O2 sensor somewhere after 280K, water pump around 290K, just replaced oil sending unit this week (it started leaking oil thru plug in connector). Otherwise just shocks, struts, tires, batteries. Still original a/c system never opened or added to, original fuel pump. It still drives tight, all power window motors original. Pass rear door electric lock getting lazy, requires more than one attempt to lock.
Not hard to believe at all, these are great cars for basic transportation.
 

jk_636

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Thats awesome kitty. Some people have all the luck! thumbsup
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Not hard to believe at all, these are great cars for basic transportation.
It isn't hard for you to believe that a modern American Car made it to 296k miles? Without the need for any major mechanical overhaul? Your delusional man! happy
 
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jk_636 yea I have been pretty lucky compared to some of what I hear. And I've always bought/owned domestic vehicles (although that has become somewhat blurred nowdays). Probably because I was a kid in the 70's and remember my Dad buying a 74 Subaru, a 75 Corolla, and 78 (I think?) Datsun B210 (?). Due to the oil embargo and resulting high fuel prices. Maybe it was just us - but those cars were complete JUNK compared to Ford Fairlane, Dodge Coronet, Dodge pickup (late 60's), and 72 Chevy (which became my first vehicle in 1981 - and still have it). All three of the econoboxes had more problems than you would imagine - I can remember most just because my Dad was so frustrated. He was NO mechanic WHATSOEVER, so everything had to go to a shop. I actually can remember most of the major issues all three had if anyone is interested. That being said, I think the domestics went thru more or less the same thing in the 80's. By now, in my opinion anyway, most all comparably priced vehicles are pretty much equal overall. JMO.
 

jk_636

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It is still running, and the noise is still there, perhaps slightly louder, but the engine still has a "smooth" idle the last time we spoke. He will be doing another engine flush and oil change, as well as air filter + cabin air filter change and new spark plugs soon, so stay tuned for more photos in the near future. He will be taking photos of every step along the way and I will be posting them as I get them. He was going to be doing it this weekend but a family emergency took precedent, so perhaps next week.
 

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The filter that I pulled out that was partially collapsed was a Wix. I replaced it with an AC-Delco. Next time I will get the Delco kit with the new cap and o-ring in case the bypass is messed up on the current cap.
 
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Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
I have a similar engine and I changed the timing chain tensioner a few years ago. It's not hard or expensive to remove the valve cover. Maybe 2 hours to re-reinstall. Sounds like the chain is lose but not like a guide is broken. The chain tensioner in that engine is sensitive to oil pressure and sludge. It was updated a few years ago. Could be a cheap fix and costs nothing to look inside.
I totally agree---change the tensioner to the new design.I had a 2.2 that started to sound like that on startup (my motor wasn't sludged).After changing no more startup noise. The tensioners rely on oil pressure in the tensioner as well as spring pressure,the tensioner's oil gallery is probably plugged and varnished.
 
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