Sludge removal question

[demarpaint]

I've had good luck over the years with MMO. If the engine is really loaded with Sludge I would add a Qt about 1,000 miles before your OCI. Don't over fill. I would do this for the next 2-3 oil changes.

ARX seems to be the best though according to all the posts on this board.

Frank D

 

[marcel]

On a severely sludged motor with hardened deposits it would not work . I would be afraid if anything stonger is used of something plugging an oil gallery. For under a valve cover it would be safer just to remove and clean with solvent.

 

[MGregoir]

This is one I just thought of for a "safer" diesel flush procedure. I don't think it would be as effective, but it would certainly be safer.

Drain your present fill of oil. Fill the sump with kerosene or diesel but keep the current filter on. Do it while the engine is warm but not hot so you don't burn yourself or get a whole pile of diesel vapors floating around.

Let it sit for a few minutes, pull the fuel pump fuse and cycle the starter to turn the oil pump and circulate the fluid. Let it sit, cycling the starter in five second bursts every few minutes.

Pull the drain plug, replace the filter, let the engine sit and thoroughly drain, then refill with an HDEO 10W-30, something with a lot of detergent, or maybe a 15W-40 to account for the dilution by the diesel. This would be one of those times to pour a quart of oil through the system to flush it out a bit.

Reinsert the fuel pump fuse.

Start the engine and let it idle until water temperature reads okay, and make sure to watch your oil pressure. This may require a ScanGauge type tool if you do not have a gauge.

Take it for a low-load drive, not pushing it, and then get it out on the highway and drive for a sustained cruise long enough to bring the oil up to temperature and flash off the "lighter components." Maybe drop it a gear lower once it is up to temperature to increase your rpm and increase the flow.

Run it for an hour or so, bring it home, dump the oil to get out the fuel if any is left and anything that is in suspension that your flush loosened up that required more time to come out, change filters, and refill the engine with your normal fill of oil. Maybe run a shorter interval on that oil change.

Of course, this sounds like nearly as much work as AutoRX to get your result in one day instead of two oil changes. I think it may work better on a severely sludged motor, or as a pre-treatment to AutoRX in an extremely sludged motor.

 

[aquariuscsm]

I`ve read a lot of posts on various forums where people will drain a bit of oil,pour a quart of ATF in,drive around a bit,drain and refill with the oil of their choice (people say it`s usually done to "cure" ticky lifters. Don`t know if it`s an urban legend or if it really works though).

 

[MGregoir]

ATF has a lot of specialized detergents in it and is basically 20-weight oil otherwise.

I would be worried about friction modifiers in it though, would definitely want to use a more "slippery" fluid.

ATF is supposedly the cure for stuck rings.

 

[BrianWC]

Most of the great minds on here will tell you ATF=no good for flushing.

Besides, where has it been documented on here that high levels of detergents miraculously cleaned an sludged engine? I've never seen anything close.

 

[NHHEMI]

When I was growing up and getting into cars ATF was the preferred flush for a sludged up engine. It was also poured, very slowly into the mouth of the carb, to clean valves( careful you don't drip onto a hot manifold or it bursts into flames - ask me how I know

). I have used it both ways and never had a problem. It seemed to clean out the engine really good when used as a flush.

When I worked auto parts the flushes were basically just kerosene in a fancy can as another poster mentioned. The old time mechanics that would come in many times would buy some Kero from us to do a flush. ATF though was the more popular choice in this area and at that time.

I have never used RX so can't comment on it. I have used SeaFoam before however to flush and it works really well.

 

[BrianWC]

ATF has changed over time, from what I understand. However, the only good explanation I've heard for any cleaning capability is it's light 20 weight which might remove some not so stubborn loose crud in the engine.

 

[meep]

Having scraped both soft and hard sludge from valve covers after 3 OCIs of HM oils and seafoam, I have serious doubts about any cleaner that claims it can remove ACCUMULATED sludge during a 30 minute flush, or a 3000 mile OCI. Very light buildup, staining/varnish, sure. Free rings/lifters, sure. But accumulations IMO need more than cleaner in a can.

M

 

[Durango]

I would rather use a chemical flush to do the entire engine. I might try first taking the car for a long drive to get the engine nice n' hot to clean out all the passages.

Durango

 

[dargo]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I've had good luck over the years with MMO. If the engine is really loaded with Sludge I would add a Qt about 1,000 miles before your OCI. Don't over fill. I would do this for the next 2-3 oil changes.

ARX seems to be the best though according to all the posts on this board.

Frank D


I have used diesel, kero etc and do work. ARX works (“according to all the posts on this board”) since you are posting to the ARX forum here. I have seen too many posts removed, threads removed etc that are not pro ARX; along with the same few people posting about the product. Not saying it is bad, but makes a long time lurker wonder a lot…

 

[ZZman]

meep.....Did you check the oil pans too? Was ther alot of sludge there?

 

[BrianWC]

Originally Posted By: dargo
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I've had good luck over the years with MMO. If the engine is really loaded with Sludge I would add a Qt about 1,000 miles before your OCI. Don't over fill. I would do this for the next 2-3 oil changes.

ARX seems to be the best though according to all the posts on this board.

Frank D


I have used diesel, kero etc and do work. ARX works (“according to all the posts on this board”) since you are posting to the ARX forum here. I have seen too many posts removed, threads removed etc that are not pro ARX; along with the same few people posting about the product. Not saying it is bad, but makes a long time lurker wonder a lot…



Yawn. Here we go again. Please note no one shoved arx in anyones' face.

 

[dargo]

I know and just stating a fact....along with posting an answer too.

 

[BrianWC]

Originally Posted By: dargo
I know and just stating a fact....along with posting an answer too.


Why not go through the archives of the oil additive section? See what "few" people have had results with what products.

 

[dargo]

I have and again, the threads are a little skewed; I do not like posts removed, threads gone etc on products. Time #3, it makes me, long time lurker wonder a lot or my brain was seeing things...

Just saying ARX works along with other items, case closed.

 

[BrianWC]

Threads get locked or removed on here when they get exceptionally personal or delve into the three no-nos, religion, sex, or politics. There are plenty of threads bashing plenty of products, sponsors or otherwise around here.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: dargo
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I've had good luck over the years with MMO. If the engine is really loaded with Sludge I would add a Qt about 1,000 miles before your OCI. Don't over fill. I would do this for the next 2-3 oil changes.

ARX seems to be the best though according to all the posts on this board.

Frank D


I have used diesel, kero etc and do work. ARX works (“according to all the posts on this board”) since you are posting to the ARX forum here. I have seen too many posts removed, threads removed etc that are not pro ARX; along with the same few people posting about the product. Not saying it is bad, but makes a long time lurker wonder a lot…


Maybe I'm reading too much into this, but I used the phrase ("according to all the posts on this board") because I haven't used ARX as of yet. I think there are enough credible threads IMO on this board to warrant giving the product a try. I might use it in my 93 Aerostar, at some point, if and when I do I will post my results.

In thinking about this I remember using MMO in cars my father owned that were not cared for like I care for my cars. A 66 Ford Falcon comes to mind. I changed the valve cover gasket and the engine was loaded with Sludge/Junk. I didn't feel like cleaning it up. I did the MMO treatment mentioned above for probably 3 OCI's and pulled the valve cover about a year later and it was noticeably cleaner. Just my observations and it was many, many years ago.


Frank D

 

[dargo]

Originally Posted By: BrianWC
Threads get locked or removed on here when they get exceptionally personal or delve into the three no-nos, religion, sex, or politics. There are plenty of threads bashing plenty of products, sponsors or otherwise around here.


I agree, politics on here are the 100% driving force. But on the other end, bashing of certain product here is limited. Why you might ask? The PM/emails I have gotten show that..

Time #4, I am not knocking any product here, just for users to read here with a huge, again huge grain of salt. When manufactures starting using certain products along with concrete directions maybe 1% of the population will use certain products. Until then, kero, seafoam, diesel, will always work....

 

[Redcat]

I haven't put ATF in my engine, but it did clean up the crud in my oil container that I use to catch the old oil. This was Dexron II I think, that I used when I was trying to fix a leak in a transfer case.

Just my 2 cents.