Thanks - I'll have to check out my local Ace
Slotted Screwdrivers
- Thread starter greasegunn
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One last question (I think) - If the PB Swiss design is superior with the parallel tip, why hasn't another manufacturer copied it? Any thoughts?
Originally Posted By: greasegunn
One last question (I think) - If the PB Swiss design is superior with the parallel tip, why hasn't another manufacturer copied it? Any thoughts?
It might be difficult to knock them off economically.
One last question (I think) - If the PB Swiss design is superior with the parallel tip, why hasn't another manufacturer copied it? Any thoughts?
It might be difficult to knock them off economically.
Originally Posted By: greasegunn
One last question (I think) - If the PB Swiss design is superior with the parallel tip, why hasn't another manufacturer copied it? Any thoughts?
Yes, as I mentioned earlier, check out the Klein. They have tips ground parallel. You won't find better screw driver tips for less money. Made in the USA
One last question (I think) - If the PB Swiss design is superior with the parallel tip, why hasn't another manufacturer copied it? Any thoughts?
Yes, as I mentioned earlier, check out the Klein. They have tips ground parallel. You won't find better screw driver tips for less money. Made in the USA
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
The Craftsman I have in slotted tend to break. I've used some Crescent industrial ones for years. Most durable screwdriver I've had.
Yeah - pretty much every one of my Craftsman Phillips is buggered up. The smaller blade Craftsman slotted are not far behind. I'll have to check out the Crescent.
The Craftsman I have in slotted tend to break. I've used some Crescent industrial ones for years. Most durable screwdriver I've had.
Yeah - pretty much every one of my Craftsman Phillips is buggered up. The smaller blade Craftsman slotted are not far behind. I'll have to check out the Crescent.
Originally Posted By: greasegunn
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
The Craftsman I have in slotted tend to break. I've used some Crescent industrial ones for years. Most durable screwdriver I've had.
Yeah - pretty much every one of my Craftsman Phillips is buggered up. The smaller blade Craftsman slotted are not far behind. I'll have to check out the Crescent.
My Craftsman phillips are OK but I don't use them much. I have some Crescent phillips that I use all the time.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
The Craftsman I have in slotted tend to break. I've used some Crescent industrial ones for years. Most durable screwdriver I've had.
Yeah - pretty much every one of my Craftsman Phillips is buggered up. The smaller blade Craftsman slotted are not far behind. I'll have to check out the Crescent.
My Craftsman phillips are OK but I don't use them much. I have some Crescent phillips that I use all the time.
I messed up a slotted screw for an A2 stock I bought myself for Christmas. The screw came with a dab of red loctite and was incredibly hard to screw into the buffer tube. I actually thought the threads were blown out. After all the loctite wore off, and after several installations/ un-installations, the screw went in just fine.
I was using my largest Craftsman flat head screw driver.
I am planning to get either a torx or hex key style screw as a replacement. Not sure if they even make torx machine screws?
I was using my largest Craftsman flat head screw driver.
I am planning to get either a torx or hex key style screw as a replacement. Not sure if they even make torx machine screws?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: greasegunn
Trav
How do the PB Swiss handles hold up to automotive fluids, grease, oil, etc?
How often are you gonna be working with straight-slot screws where there's grease and oil in the area ?
For some reason whenever I'm around grease and oil, the fasteners are always either hex head cap screws, hex head nuts, or hex head bolts.
Trav
How do the PB Swiss handles hold up to automotive fluids, grease, oil, etc?
How often are you gonna be working with straight-slot screws where there's grease and oil in the area ?
For some reason whenever I'm around grease and oil, the fasteners are always either hex head cap screws, hex head nuts, or hex head bolts.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: greasegunn
Trav
How do the PB Swiss handles hold up to automotive fluids, grease, oil, etc?
How often are you gonna be working with straight-slot screws where there's grease and oil in the area ?
For some reason whenever I'm around grease and oil, the fasteners are always either hex head cap screws, hex head nuts, or hex head bolts.
Very good point!
Originally Posted By: greasegunn
Trav
How do the PB Swiss handles hold up to automotive fluids, grease, oil, etc?
How often are you gonna be working with straight-slot screws where there's grease and oil in the area ?
For some reason whenever I'm around grease and oil, the fasteners are always either hex head cap screws, hex head nuts, or hex head bolts.
Very good point!
Originally Posted By: Traction
Originally Posted By: greasegunn
One last question (I think) - If the PB Swiss design is superior with the parallel tip, why hasn't another manufacturer copied it? Any thoughts?
Yes, as I mentioned earlier, check out the Klein. They have tips ground parallel. You won't find better screw driver tips for less money. Made in the USA
Will check them out - thanks
Originally Posted By: greasegunn
One last question (I think) - If the PB Swiss design is superior with the parallel tip, why hasn't another manufacturer copied it? Any thoughts?
Yes, as I mentioned earlier, check out the Klein. They have tips ground parallel. You won't find better screw driver tips for less money. Made in the USA
Will check them out - thanks
Originally Posted By: greasegunn
One last question (I think) - If the PB Swiss design is superior with the parallel tip, why hasn't another manufacturer copied it? Any thoughts?
Other brands are out there. I now commonly find parallel tips in 1/4" hex screwdriver bits, from just about anywhere. Why the US brands (mostly made by Western Forge/Apex) are lagging probably has to do with existing tooling. Once the tooling is changed, they're really no more expensive to make.
One last question (I think) - If the PB Swiss design is superior with the parallel tip, why hasn't another manufacturer copied it? Any thoughts?
Other brands are out there. I now commonly find parallel tips in 1/4" hex screwdriver bits, from just about anywhere. Why the US brands (mostly made by Western Forge/Apex) are lagging probably has to do with existing tooling. Once the tooling is changed, they're really no more expensive to make.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: greasegunn
Trav
How do the PB Swiss handles hold up to automotive fluids, grease, oil, etc?
How often are you gonna be working with straight-slot screws where there's grease and oil in the area ?
For some reason whenever I'm around grease and oil, the fasteners are always either hex head cap screws, hex head nuts, or hex head bolts.
I don't know about you but i run into a lot of screw type hose clamps on cars that are slotted.
Originally Posted By: greasegunn
Trav
How do the PB Swiss handles hold up to automotive fluids, grease, oil, etc?
How often are you gonna be working with straight-slot screws where there's grease and oil in the area ?
For some reason whenever I'm around grease and oil, the fasteners are always either hex head cap screws, hex head nuts, or hex head bolts.
I don't know about you but i run into a lot of screw type hose clamps on cars that are slotted.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't know about you but i run into a lot of screw type hose clamps on cars that are slotted.
Are they in an area where you'll get oil splattered all over your screwdriver ?
I prefer nut drivers for hose clamps and can't understand why other guys don't use them.
I don't know about you but i run into a lot of screw type hose clamps on cars that are slotted.
Are they in an area where you'll get oil splattered all over your screwdriver ?
I prefer nut drivers for hose clamps and can't understand why other guys don't use them.
Just wiping them down with hand cleaner and/or water after exposure should alleviate your concerns.
Thanks for this thread. I have some PBSwiss and a Klein ratcheting bit driver on queue. Is the bit driver as good quality as the regular handled Kleins?
Thanks for this thread. I have some PBSwiss and a Klein ratcheting bit driver on queue. Is the bit driver as good quality as the regular handled Kleins?
I'll tell you what -- if you wan't a really sweet set of straight slot screwdrivers, look at the old fashion MAC "Comfort Grip" screwdrivers. They have a hard plastic handle, but the handle is textured for a good grip when covered with oil.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't know about you but i run into a lot of screw type hose clamps on cars that are slotted.
Are they in an area where you'll get oil splattered all over your screwdriver ?
I prefer nut drivers for hose clamps and can't understand why other guys don't use them.
I often need a slotted for something you cant use a nut driver on. Some FI clamps and older non SAE worm clamps for example have no hex.
Its not a question of getting oil, fuel and grease splattered on the handles its the grease and oil from your hands.
Nut drivers are IMO a waste of drawer space, i don't own any. If i need one i just use a 1/4" socket on a drive handle that i can use extensions and swivels with to make it a more versatile tool.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't know about you but i run into a lot of screw type hose clamps on cars that are slotted.
Are they in an area where you'll get oil splattered all over your screwdriver ?
I prefer nut drivers for hose clamps and can't understand why other guys don't use them.
I often need a slotted for something you cant use a nut driver on. Some FI clamps and older non SAE worm clamps for example have no hex.
Its not a question of getting oil, fuel and grease splattered on the handles its the grease and oil from your hands.
Nut drivers are IMO a waste of drawer space, i don't own any. If i need one i just use a 1/4" socket on a drive handle that i can use extensions and swivels with to make it a more versatile tool.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't know about you but i run into a lot of screw type hose clamps on cars that are slotted.
Are they in an area where you'll get oil splattered all over your screwdriver ?
I prefer nut drivers for hose clamps and can't understand why other guys don't use them.
I often need a slotted for something you cant use a nut driver on. Some FI clamps and older non SAE worm clamps for example have no hex.
Its not a question of getting oil, fuel and grease splattered on the handles its the grease and oil from your hands.
Nut drivers are IMO a waste of drawer space, i don't own any. If i need one i just use a 1/4" socket on a drive handle that i can use extensions and swivels with to make it a more versatile tool.
While I have nut drivers in my tool chest, I'm also realizing they are taking up precious space and basically duplication what I could easily do with other tools I have - just a touch more convenient I guess and perhaps a bit less likely to lose a nut driver as opposed to a socket.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't know about you but i run into a lot of screw type hose clamps on cars that are slotted.
Are they in an area where you'll get oil splattered all over your screwdriver ?
I prefer nut drivers for hose clamps and can't understand why other guys don't use them.
I often need a slotted for something you cant use a nut driver on. Some FI clamps and older non SAE worm clamps for example have no hex.
Its not a question of getting oil, fuel and grease splattered on the handles its the grease and oil from your hands.
Nut drivers are IMO a waste of drawer space, i don't own any. If i need one i just use a 1/4" socket on a drive handle that i can use extensions and swivels with to make it a more versatile tool.
While I have nut drivers in my tool chest, I'm also realizing they are taking up precious space and basically duplication what I could easily do with other tools I have - just a touch more convenient I guess and perhaps a bit less likely to lose a nut driver as opposed to a socket.
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