Silverado engine problem

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Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
It's definitely still an issue, just less prevalent now.

Though that video could be of a wrist pin or bearing noise.

No way is that vid piston slap! My '01 5.3 had it for about 30 seconds on a cold startup, then gone entirely. They later went to coated pistons and ran tighter bore clearances. In the 6.0 at least, they also went to full floating wrist pins and LS2 rods. Combined, these fixed the piston slap, at least in the LS based engines.
 
Your lucky it was covered under warranty. Not to scare you, but I would ditch the truck if possible. Those motors are pretty stout and even though they have problems nothing this bad. Next time, there may not be a warranty to cover you. BTW, this has nothing to do w/ piston slap.
 
That sounds a little too vague for my mechanical ability. Does anyone know for sure how to inspect/service the "fixed orifice" PCV valve on the 5.3's?

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
Exactly how do you check this "fixed orifice"? Where is it? My daughter's 2008 Avalanche 5.3L apparently doesn't have a PCV valve either.

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: tsduke
On my 05 5.3 the pcv isn't even replaceable or doesn't have one. I've asked 2 GM parts depts and looked online at the major parts stores...nothing. Is it replaceable on the 07?


IIRC, it should have the "fixed orifice" PCV assembly. Which should still be checked to make sure it is free of build-up.


Supposed to be on the very back of one of the valve covers. Looks like a tube.
 
Originally Posted By: blsnelling
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
It's definitely still an issue, just less prevalent now.

Though that video could be of a wrist pin or bearing noise.

No way is that vid piston slap! My '01 5.3 had it for about 30 seconds on a cold startup, then gone entirely. They later went to coated pistons and ran tighter bore clearances. In the 6.0 at least, they also went to full floating wrist pins and LS2 rods. Combined, these fixed the piston slap, at least in the LS based engines.


I agree that is not piston slap. If you listen to the guy in the video he says the vehicle had been running for an hour. The infamous "Piston Slap" issue for GM is a cold start condition that goes away once the engine warms up and everything expands creating the proper tolerances. That sound is something bad happening with the bearings or rods as you say. If it was bearing related though it should be impacting the oil pressure and would be easy to diagnose.

Piston slap for all intents and purposes was dealt with around 03/04. I spent 06-08 on the GM truck forums with my 2 Silverados w/ 5.3L's( 2005 and 2007 NBS w/ AFM )and PS was not an issue for those later models that I ever read about. When you did it was instances like this video where they were saying PS because the engine made noise despite the fact it was not the symptoms of PS.
 
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Originally Posted By: rshunter
I doubt that the UOA will find a coolant leak, or anything else, at this point. If this was related to a failure of the original design, materials or assembly, GM had a chance to find it and deal with it without incurring negative publicity. I'd take this as an opportunity to start over with a clean slate. Start with the OLM as a guide and use UOA to see if it is worth extending the drain intervals.


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If there were any mechanical issues leading to the sludge chances are they have been found and corrected. I would also consider it a fresh start.

I wouldn't do the UOA just yet either. IMO it would come back showing issues that may not be there. Left overs so to speak from the previous problem.I would run the current oil the GM garage used out to say 500-1000 miles then do another OC to remove any [censored] that got in there while they were working on it. I might even use something like Seafoam or Amsoil engine flush as well. Then another short OC with dino of say another 500-1000.

At that point I would I would say everything is ready to swap over to whatever oil the OP wants to run( the Amsoil 5w30 I would assume ). Run it out until the trucks OLM signals an OC is needed and then pull the sample to send in. If the oil can go longer the OP can extend it a little and see how it held up for the next OC.

I personally would never run an oil for 25K regardless of what the oil mfg claims. 15K is about as far as I would take any oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
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Though that video could be of a wrist pin or bearing noise.

That sounds like what I've got! Great! I kind of figured that the dealership was feeding me a line of junk!
 
Originally Posted By: Jehartley
Originally Posted By: blsnelling
GM fixed the piston slap problems in model years 2004-2005.


No, they didn't.

If they are using the LS2 or LS3 series of engines, GM did address the piston slap issue. 2004-2005 may not have used this series so you may be right in that those years still have piston slap. The LS2 came out in corvettes in the 2005 model year.
 
I'm not sure on when GM claimed piston slap corrected, but I know the chevy shop tried calling my 05 issues piston slap at first. Of course I didn't let things go at that.
 
Originally Posted By: markhait
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT



Though that video could be of a wrist pin or bearing noise.

That sounds like what I've got! Great! I kind of figured that the dealership was feeding me a line of junk! [/quote]

How much tear down did they do when diagnosing your motor?
 
Originally Posted By: markhait

Whats a used oil analysis? They didn't show me anything, but they said that they tore the engine apart and removed all the sludge. Thats kind of why I think I have that dreaded piston slap. For the dealer to take 2 days and take the engine apart and keep finding things to be replaced, I suspect that there are bigger issues that GM doesn't want to pay for and so they replace enough to get you running again. I've read on several forums that the engine should be replaced if you have piston slap.
What baffles me is the sudden oil consumption I was experiencing. I never had to add as much as 1/2 quart in a year before and now I'm adding 1 quart/month. I'm confused.



markhait,

So it appears that you've now figured out what a used oil analysis is and you've also requested your oil sample kit. However, I wouldn't recommend that you take a sample of oil from your truck just yet...

As others have said, since GM has just repaired your engine, the used oil analysis will not find anything surprising that may have been there before. Also, the used oil analysis will find dirt, silicone sealant, antifreeze, etc from the teardown that still exist in the oil that GM filled your truck with. These findings will give you the false assertion that something is still wrong with your truck, whereas there may be nothing wrong in reality.

What I would recommend you do is this:

1. Drive your truck for a 1-2k miles, then change out the oil and filter with some more conventional oil of the correct grade (5W30 or 10W30)

2. Do this again 1-3k miles later.

3. Fill with the oil of your choice (Amsoil if you want to give them a shot again). Reset the oil change indicator to 100%.

4. Drive until your oil change light appears. At this time, change the oil. However, be sure to take a sample of hot oil as it is falling out of your oil drain hole. Do not take the sample out of your catch basin as there may be contamination or dirt present in there.

5. Fill the truck with new oil and reset the indicator again. In the meantime, wait for your oil sample results to come back.

Once the used oil analysis comes back, post it up here and people can help you decipher the comments and findings to determine if your engine can or cannot go farther on it's fill of synthetic oil. There may be issues with your new truck that were not present on your old truck that will not allow it to go the full 25k that Amsoil states.

Remember, Amsoil is a great product, as are many other high end synthetics on the market. I believe their products are top notch, and have used them for years (as well as other high end synthetics). They have always performed to my satisfaction. Amsoil can and does go 25k in ideal cases, and has proven to work well under extended drains. HOWEVER... You need to make sure that it will work in your scenario with a used oil analysis to rest assured that you are making the right decision. I know that in my engine, Amsoil or any other synthetic for that matter will not last more than 10k. Period. No questions there. So I limit myself to 10k change intervals (or less if desired). I am happy with this, and you may have to do the same if your engine cannot support 25k drain intervals.

Remember, always use used oil analysis to determine a SAFE extended interval for your truck in your particular scenario. Hopefully this helps. Good luck!
 
That looks like a PCV valve to me. Where is this "fixed orifice" PCV system that you mentioned earlier for 5.3's that don't have a serviceable valve/plumbing?

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
That sounds a little too vague for my mechanical ability. Does anyone know for sure how to inspect/service the "fixed orifice" PCV valve on the 5.3's?



Here:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?autocom=ibwiki&cmd=article&id=400
 
First off as I see it is the Amsoil 10w30 has a 15k severe duty service life.It states UP to 25k in normal driving.Its stated right in the nomenclature. That tells you something from the get go.I have run that oil at 20k or so intervals that consisted 95% hiway driving in a 305 85 model Caprice Classic.Sold that car with 252k and running good,no sludge,I would not do that again without used oil analysis.I failed also to read the nomenclature about the oil life.I did have to add 1qt every 4k.I think that helped with oil additives.
 
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
That looks like a PCV valve to me. Where is this "fixed orifice" PCV system that you mentioned earlier for 5.3's that don't have a serviceable valve/plumbing?

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
That sounds a little too vague for my mechanical ability. Does anyone know for sure how to inspect/service the "fixed orifice" PCV valve on the 5.3's?



Here:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?autocom=ibwiki&cmd=article&id=400



Should be in the same location, it just looks a bit different. And you don't need to replace it, just make sure it is clean.
 
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