Silicates in a Japanese car.....

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Leo

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How damaging would it be to use a low silicate HOAT in a Japanese car? Will there be any risk with silicate prematurely wearing out the water pumps that the Japanese car makers fear so much?

So my partner and I both have 05 Mazda 3s, (pre 'FL22', Mazda's 2nd generation P-HOAT). Unfortunately Down Under, its impossible to find a coolant that's suitable ie silicate/borate free, phosphate based coolant besides OEM concentrate which is a ball breaker at 1qt/USD$25 - 4x what an aftermarket HOAT would cost. Another kick in the pants is this Mazda stuff is only rated at weak 2 year intervals! We don't get brands like Peak etc down here...

Would it be OK to use a HOAT? I'd be going with something like this; http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Long_Life_Concentrated_Coolant/ which appears to be a G-05 clone at 1/4rd the cost of the OEM stuff.
 
can the toyota SLLC work in a mazda? just a thought. i think the toyota SLLC is not that expensive. (maybe $10/L?)
 
I'm not sure on long term effects, but I flushed my mazda this spring and put in Zarex G-05. In Canada we don't have as many choices as in States, most coolant available are prestone and other Dexcool clones.

My resoning for using Zerex was that Ford Focus, which has an identical engine to Mazda 3, uses G-05 so it should be safe for Mazda.

If you are not comftarble with using G-05, use Mazda stuff, but at $25 a 1QT???? (is that one quart and not a gallon?) the price is a rip off.
 
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It may be important. I've been careful to only use silicate-free a/f in my Sentra (nothing fancy, just Wal Mart ST) and have 227,000 on the original w/p and it's still going strong. It's not proof, but just an anecdote for what it's worth.
 
Flush it out first. What I mean is try and get 100% of the new stuff in there, not 50%.
Use distilled water for your mix.
The dual action or hybrid coolant should be an improvement.
Silicates are not horrible. Only when the coolant is puked and they have settled out. Then, possible plugging or abrasiveness can occur.
I really like the HOACs.
 
Thanks guys for the advice. I think I'll just to go a standard HOAT as a replacement. I'll try and flush as much of the OEM coolant out with distilled as I can. It is comforting knowing that Ford use a HOAT coolant in the same engine! Could try Toyota SLLC too so I'll grab a price on that but its probably not going to be cheap either. I'd probably rather just go Mazda FL22 in that case.

Yes it is correct. The 2 dealers I rang wanted $30AUD for a 1L bottle (which is 25USD/qt) and I'd need about 3 bottles to make a 45/55 concentrate. What a complete rort!
 
I've got an '04 Subaru OBW L.L. Bean edition.
I'm getting ready to change all the fluids & i'm concerned about the coolant as well.
The dealer wants ~$25 for a gallon of 50/50 OEM blue stuff.
Since I haven't been to the parts store lately or Wallyworld, is Zerex G05 still available? Is that a good OEM replacement?
 
Well I priced up some Toyota Super Long Life which ended up being $35/5L which is a VERY good price. Its only a tad more expensive than what Mazda want for 1L! I guess there should be no issues in using this coolant so I'm going to be taking this route. As I understand, Super Long Life is a 2nd generation P-HOAT, correct?
 
While searching for an alternative to my Subaru today, I came across this.
It specifically states "Asian Vehicles", as well as:

Developed to meet the long life coolant specifications of Asian vehicles.
* 5 year/150,000 Mile Guarantee
* Recommended for all Asian Vehicles
* Compatible with Asian coolants and cooling systems.
* Silicate Free, Phosphated HOAT Chemistry
* Protects against freeze-ups and boilovers
* Protects against rust and corrosion
* Premixed with demineralized water

I don't really understand this HOAT stuff, or for that matter any of the tech talk about coolant.
I do know I don't wanna pay $23/gal. for OEM!
Of course I don't wanna put the wrong stuff in & pay for a new engine either!
 
I put dex cool in my 2002 maxima 5 years ago, no issues at all.
I also converted my 1996 explorer 10-11 years ago. It also had no problems. As a matter of fact on its original waterpump still with 208k miles. I like it, even with all the negative press it gets
 
Avoid silicates in Japanese cars!

My mom had a Mitsubishi Expo and after 4 years and 80,000 miles, the water pump needed to be replaced. That was after she spent $400 at 60,000 miles for a new timing belt. My dad had a Honda Accord that had a water pump fail at 130,000 miles and 4 years. That was after he spent $400 for his T-belt at 90,000 miles.

Both cars had been flushed with silicated coolant once a year.

Either use non-silicate coolant, or expect short life from a water pump.
 
I had called both Kia and Isuzu dealer. Both said to go with a conventional green. I have had very good experience with my Isuzu dealer over the years, and I trust their recommendations.
Napa is a very low silicate antifreeze anyway.

As far as timing belt, Isuzu is due at 75K miles (severe service schedule), and I plan to have water pump replaced at the same time. As far as I know, that's how it is normally done.
 
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