The way cars hold their value these days it doesn't make sense to keep long term, swap it every 2-3 years and enjoy a new car that's under warranty.
I don't want monthly payments and i drive to much for a lease.
The way cars hold their value these days it doesn't make sense to keep long term, swap it every 2-3 years and enjoy a new car that's under warranty.
Of course you can.You can’t make sweeping generalizations.
I have been car shopping and it seems most all cars have turbos on them now days should any car be avoided with one if you want longevity? I keep my cars until i hit 300,000 to 400,000 miles as i drive a lot.
For most people the turbos probably don't affect as most people don't keep there cars long enough to have it die but i do. My buddy says that little 1.5L gas engines with a turbo will never last 300k-400k as it's a small motor with added stress from the turbo and naturally aspirated engine is the way to go for longevity and no repair bills.
Is he right or full of it?
I have a turbo VW that is at over 2x stock power, tracked, going on 5 years/100K without turbo failure with a larger OE turbo. There were some noted failures with the waste gates on some VWs however but is it "really common"? I'd say no as a percentage. How many F-150s/Fords with that twin turbo 6? Define "all over". What is teh failure rate of the Tundra waste gate issues? Who owns a vehicle to 400K and doens't need to spend several thousand in repairs? I just feel like all of this stuff is over-hyped paranoia. Until someone can show me data supporting this, I feel like it's at a level similar to other issues vehicles have/had had over time.You sure about that? What about the tundra twin turbos waste gate fail. There are complaints about fords eco boost all over and Hondas 1.5L CRV oil dilution.
My 2000 S4 Audi had the electric after run water pump. It was a Bosch plastic unit and some smart designer put it UNDER the intake manifold. Yep it failed/leaked ..like all the Audi after run pumps.Which is what Audi tried to tackle in the Type 44's circa 1986 with their after-run system. An electric water pump kept circulating coolant and the electric rad fan kept running.
In typical Audi/Lucas Electric fashion it was wildly unreliable and failure-prone
A good number of the latest Focuses for the North American market scored one out of five in reliability by Consumer Reports. I am not sure if you are suggesting that there is some manual, normally aspirated version of this car that is reliable apart from "rust" as the magic formula for reliability. The focus may be a nice driving car, but should not be part of any reliability discussion.IMO odds are your buddy is right, if you want to get to 300-400k without a major repair. 2.5 NA 4 cyl has enough grunt for midsize car or small SUV to go the distance, or a 2.0L in a compact car. You might still get a head gasket or timing chain issue, but it should be less stressed overall.
Preferably you would go manual trans too, I'd get the last year of a Focus, keep the rust away and drive it.
..that said there is no reason a a turbo wont last a long time, provided the owner of the vehicle keeps the oil clean and allows the engine a short cooldown period before they shut the engine off.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/maint-repair-costs-per-mile.358769/#post-6211802I have a turbo VW that is at over 2x stock power, tracked, going on 5 years/100K without turbo failure with a larger OE turbo. There were some noted failures with the waste gates on some VWs however but is it "really common"? I'd say no as a percentage. How many F-150s/Fords with that twin turbo 6? Define "all over". What is teh failure rate of the Tundra waste gate issues? Who owns a vehicle to 400K and doens't need to spend several thousand in repairs? I just feel like all of this stuff is over-hyped paranoia. Until someone can show me data supporting this, I feel like it's at a level similar to other issues vehicles have/had had over time.
B/c that rating is 100% related to the DCT trans. That's it and it was a train wreck of a trans. I have a 2013, NA GDI 2.0 Focus 5 speed. 125K/10 years bought new. Without a doubt the lowest cost/most reliable vehicle that I've ever owned. Son is driving it now. I beg to differ with you here. The NA manual Focus may be the most reliable car on the planet AHHAHAHAA good number of the latest Focuses for the North American market scored one out of five in reliability by Consumer Reports. I am not sure if you are suggesting that there is some manual, normally aspirated version of this car that is reliable apart from "rust" as the magic formula for reliability. The focus may be a nice driving car, but should not be part of any reliability discussion.
Atlas is a 3.6 NA VR6. The turbo car here, my Sportwagen, should not be used for this convo beyond that it's been v. durable at >2x stock power. The maintenance on this car is based on my modifications, not the car as purchased. It's effectively a street-driven race car at this point. I have more than what I bought it for into in modifications....https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/maint-repair-costs-per-mile.358769/#post-6211802
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So far your cheapest car to run has been the NA and simplest one. The Atlas has been doing very well too though! Is it the 2.0T?
Does anyone have an example of newer smaller displacement gas car/suv with a reputation as bullet proof? I can think of a few NA engines that generally outlast the rest of the car, but my knowledge of cheaper car turbo engines is sparse, other than a few with less than stellar reputations.
In the absence of any concrete examples of bullet proof small turbos, and knowing there are a few NA engines that do have that reputation, given the goal of 400k without major repairs, I would pick the NA engine.
For sure, if you aren't doing those miles and a $1800 repair isn't a big deal, get whatever you like, most people do.