Should I upgrade my 14 Odyssey?

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17,473
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NH
Repairing is usually cheapest. Assuming it's not rusty and that you don't get hammered with a trans failure right after timing belt, struts and who knows what else. At only 70k though I'm thinking it can't be all that worn. If it's not burning oil and showing other bad signs, it's probably a safer bet to keep. Lemon laws do exist for a reason, as does buyer's remorse.
 
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23,386
Location
CA
Originally Posted by supton
Repairing is usually cheapest. Assuming it's not rusty and that you don't get hammered with a trans failure right after timing belt, struts and who knows what else. At only 70k though I'm thinking it can't be all that worn. If it's not burning oil and showing other bad signs, it's probably a safer bet to keep. Lemon laws do exist for a reason, as does buyer's remorse.
My customer with the 2012 Odyssey has gone thru: - both front struts - alternator - side engine mount - Both cv axles - p/s pump - oil consumption (and extremely fouled plugs on bank 1) - leaking hydraulic timing belt tensioner (at 90k) All of those issues popped up between 60-85K.
 
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6,492
Location
New England
Economically/financially there is absolutely no case in trading the 14 for a new model. Emotionally if there are any fore Minivans is what you have to go on.
 

JTK

Messages
13,289
Location
Buffalo, NY
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by supton
Repairing is usually cheapest. Assuming it's not rusty and that you don't get hammered with a trans failure right after timing belt, struts and who knows what else. At only 70k though I'm thinking it can't be all that worn. If it's not burning oil and showing other bad signs, it's probably a safer bet to keep. Lemon laws do exist for a reason, as does buyer's remorse.
My customer with the 2012 Odyssey has gone thru: - both front struts - alternator - side engine mount - Both cv axles - p/s pump - oil consumption (and extremely fouled plugs on bank 1) - leaking hydraulic timing belt tensioner (at 90k) All of those issues popped up between 60-85K.
On our 2008, I had one rear shock go out just beyond 3yr/36K. Had PS issues with it from new that was eventually rectified with a new fluid reservoir and suction hose. Was eventually a recall or TSB IIRC. Had to replace the roller bracket assembly on the right side slider door at about 40-50K miles. A/C lost it charge around 60K and the shop couldn't find a leak. Re-charged and was good to go. Not comforting. I was always uncomfortable in the front seats in that van. Bride loved that thing.
 
Messages
1,571
Location
MN
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by supton
Repairing is usually cheapest. Assuming it's not rusty and that you don't get hammered with a trans failure right after timing belt, struts and who knows what else. At only 70k though I'm thinking it can't be all that worn. If it's not burning oil and showing other bad signs, it's probably a safer bet to keep. Lemon laws do exist for a reason, as does buyer's remorse.
My customer with the 2012 Odyssey has gone thru: - both front struts - alternator - side engine mount - Both cv axles - p/s pump - oil consumption (and extremely fouled plugs on bank 1) - leaking hydraulic timing belt tensioner (at 90k) All of those issues popped up between 60-85K.
That all sounds about right from my experience with these generation Ody's. Alternators are a definite weak point, as is the front (left) engine mount. Axles I see less of, unless they're been damaged. The biggest issue on these is the high pressure P/S hose. For the life of me, I can't figure out HOW Honda was able to get away with just recalling the TL's and a few others, when basically every single J35 equipped vehicle from 2004+ has the same darn hose, minus a few different bends towards the rack end. I don't care if it's a Pilot, Ody, MDX, Ridgeline, whatever it is. They all fail, and they all should have been recalled when the TL's were.
 
Messages
1,983
Location
Cincinnati, USA
Originally Posted by carguy996
Im wanting to replace it because in about another year, year and a half, I am going to have the expensive timing belt service done and it will need tires, brakes, struts and stuff about the same time. Would rather get rid of it now because its harder to get rid of something that needs a couple 2-3 grand in repair a year or so down the road.
I'm doubtful it will cost that much unless you're in a high rent area of Chicago. Timing belt is around $700, middle-of-road tires & alignment $700, brakes on both axles $250, struts $200. What's "stuff" because so far you're only at $1850 and only then if you don't DIY any of it. The thing is, if you pay that $1850, you have an entire tour of duty ahead on the timing belt, tires, brakes, struts, instead of partially worn out parts on a newer used vehicle, that will also suffer higher depreciation year after year. Others have pretty much stated the same, but considering a switch from '08 to '14 and now itching to replace the '14, it might be time to buy a Sienna, but definitely not a Chrysler.
 
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23,386
Location
CA
Originally Posted by Dave9
Originally Posted by carguy996
Im wanting to replace it because in about another year, year and a half, I am going to have the expensive timing belt service done and it will need tires, brakes, struts and stuff about the same time. Would rather get rid of it now because its harder to get rid of something that needs a couple 2-3 grand in repair a year or so down the road.
I'm doubtful it will cost that much unless you're in a high rent area of Chicago. Timing belt is around $700, middle-of-road tires & alignment $700, brakes on both axles $250, struts $200. What's "stuff" because so far you're only at $1850 and only then if you don't DIY any of it.
Did you pull these numbers out of thin air, or are those actual prices that you paid in your area? Those prices are unrealistically low.
 

carguy996

Thread starter
Messages
281
Location
Illinois
My local dealer said the 100,000 mile service is $2,250. It will need tires about the same time, tires were about $950 when I had them done at 45k, I upgraded brakes to cryo treated drilled/slotted with high end pads for $175. I can do the brakes/fluids myself, but getting into the water pump, timing system, that's out of my realm. I'm sure I could find a mechanic to knock a few hundred off. Starting to think I'll be better off turning my wife's Rogue in at the end of the lease In November and just getting the new 2021 Rogue instead of buying the 18 out of the lease.
 
Messages
328
Location
D-FW, Texas
You can probably get the TB changed for $1200 using the Aisin kit. A dealer around here is running a $1k "special" (see below) until July 4th. Tires are really a don't care in the decision since they will wear equally on a new car as well. The way I look at it, you'll pay more in depreciation than the 100k maintenance. Most well maintained Odysseys can easily go 200k. " Timing Belt W/ Tensioner Special! $995.87 Includes Water pump, Tensioner, Timing Belt, Drive Belt, Coolant Honda Trained Techs and Parts "
 
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carguy996

Thread starter
Messages
281
Location
Illinois
Good point! Obviously I need to shop around a bit when it's time for that repair. Sounds like it's pretty clear I need to stop looking at a new van and hang onto this one.
 
Messages
15,555
Location
NE,Ohio
Originally Posted by Dave9
Originally Posted by carguy996
Im wanting to replace it because in about another year, year and a half, I am going to have the expensive timing belt service done and it will need tires, brakes, struts and stuff about the same time. Would rather get rid of it now because its harder to get rid of something that needs a couple 2-3 grand in repair a year or so down the road.
I'm doubtful it will cost that much unless you're in a high rent area of Chicago. Timing belt is around $700, middle-of-road tires & alignment $700, brakes on both axles $250, struts $200. What's "stuff" because so far you're only at $1850 and only then if you don't DIY any of it. The thing is, if you pay that $1850, you have an entire tour of duty ahead on the timing belt, tires, brakes, struts, instead of partially worn out parts on a newer used vehicle, that will also suffer higher depreciation year after year. Others have pretty much stated the same, but considering a switch from '08 to '14 and now itching to replace the '14, it might be time to buy a Sienna, but definitely not a Chrysler.
Thats very low for Ohio too. Shopping around for deals could maybe get close on some of it. brakes.. $600 if you are paying someone and new pads/rotors.(no other issues) Tires and alignment $850 , struts.. $500+? if oem parts. timing belt $1000 unless there is a special going on. Thats $2950 throw in some 10% shop fees and taxes. Generously call it $3k
 
Messages
4,703
Location
Ohio
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by Dave9
I'm doubtful it will cost that much unless you're in a high rent area of Chicago. Timing belt is around $700, middle-of-road tires & alignment $700, brakes on both axles $250, struts $200. What's "stuff" because so far you're only at $1850 and only then if you don't DIY any of it.
Did you pull these numbers out of thin air, or are those actual prices that you paid in your area? Those prices are unrealistically low.
Timing belt at an independent shop, yeap, $700 isn't unreasonable. Brakes are more likely $250 per axle, not both, presuming replacement of the rotors. Also presuming he meant a shop does the work. Above, I said $250-300 for pads and rotors on front and rear if you DIY. Quality tires (Yokohama, Continentals, etc) would be closer to $800 or go with some Hankook, General, Kumho, etc and spend less. No idea about struts....
 
Messages
4,703
Location
Ohio
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by supton
Repairing is usually cheapest. Assuming it's not rusty and that you don't get hammered with a trans failure right after timing belt, struts and who knows what else. At only 70k though I'm thinking it can't be all that worn. If it's not burning oil and showing other bad signs, it's probably a safer bet to keep. Lemon laws do exist for a reason, as does buyer's remorse.
My customer with the 2012 Odyssey has gone thru: - both front struts - alternator - side engine mount - Both cv axles - p/s pump - oil consumption (and extremely fouled plugs on bank 1) - leaking hydraulic timing belt tensioner (at 90k) All of those issues popped up between 60-85K.
What repairs do you routinely do on other Odysseys of that generation ?
 
Messages
4,703
Location
Ohio
Originally Posted by carguy996
My local dealer said the 100,000 mile service is $2,250.
What does that include ? The only thing it 'needs' is the timing belt/water pump/related bits and spark plugs. You said you can do brakes so you can do spark plugs too. I suspect their 100k service includes repairs like "fuel system cleaning", cabin filter replacement, brake fluid flush, and so on. Not saying those don't need done but they don't need all done at the same time resulting in a $2000+ "service". You know why dealers suggest this at 100k miles ? To get people to think, "screw that, I'm not spending that much, I'll just buy a new car" (for $350/month which would cover those repairs in ~6 months and those repairs aren't needed again for another 100k+ miles).
 
Messages
1,983
Location
Cincinnati, USA
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by Dave9
Originally Posted by carguy996
Im wanting to replace it because in about another year, year and a half, I am going to have the expensive timing belt service done and it will need tires, brakes, struts and stuff about the same time. Would rather get rid of it now because its harder to get rid of something that needs a couple 2-3 grand in repair a year or so down the road.
I'm doubtful it will cost that much unless you're in a high rent area of Chicago. Timing belt is around $700, middle-of-road tires & alignment $700, brakes on both axles $250, struts $200. What's "stuff" because so far you're only at $1850 and only then if you don't DIY any of it.
Did you pull these numbers out of thin air, or are those actual prices that you paid in your area? Those prices are unrealistically low.
Nonsense, unless you have some hair stuck in the wrong place and insist on a stealership shop and Honda parts. ALL DAY LONG, those are the correct prices. Granted, if the brake job needs new rotors, it may run a little more so I aimed for middle of the field on that one, a savvy shopper could get rotors in that ballpark but not with labor too. If you think they are low, you are either getting robbed, or work for a shop that robs... or live in a high rent area, that does affect prices.
 
Messages
1,983
Location
Cincinnati, USA
Originally Posted by Rand
Thats very low for Ohio too. Shopping around for deals could maybe get close on some of it. brakes.. $600 if you are paying someone and new pads/rotors.(no other issues)
You are out of your freakin' mind. No. In no universe is $600 reasonable for a brake job including rotors, unless some idiot pays a premium for Honda rotors at the highest markup possible. If someone does that, I exclude their opinion because they have practically zero common sense. Honda doesn't make rotors, but this theme continues below.
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Tires and alignment $850
Why does it need premium tires? Is there track racing involved? I am asking a serious question.
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struts.. $500+? if oem parts.
If you like to waste money because you are duped by the fallacy of OEM parts (when Honda does not make struts, so no matter what you could buy the same thing from the manufacturer brand for far less money), then you wasted money. I don't waste and nobody else has to.
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timing belt $1000 unless there is a special going on.
False and I want proof. There are plenty of examples, including owner forums, where this cost closer to $700.
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Thats $2950 throw in some 10% shop fees and taxes. Generously call it $3k
No. You seem to be trying hard to inflate the price. If you are willing to overpay, that does not extend to being something everyone else is willing to do. Granted, I would've just done all this DIY and paid under $1K. Which I have done on many vehicles.
 
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Messages
4,703
Location
Ohio
Originally Posted by Dave9
If you think they are low, you are either getting robbed, or work for a shop that robs... or live in a high rent area, that does affect prices.
He's in California
 
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