Why not use straight-weight oils when temperatures are high? When ambient air temperatures never dip below 65F (say for an entire summer around these parts), is there really a need for the "w" rating?
Because you still need a fast oil flow on start-up, even in the summer. A straight 30 or 40 will be way to thick for quick and efficient early lubrication in an engine with tight-fitting tolerances designed with the assumption that the engine will be pumping a relatively light oil on start.quote:
Originally posted by ToyotaNSaturn:
Why not use straight-weight oils when temperatures are high? When ambient air temperatures never dip below 65F (say for an entire summer around these parts), is there really a need for the "w" rating?
I don't use straight viscosity oils either, although I wouldn't be the least bit concerned about using a straight 30 weight someplace it didn't get below 65F. But not for the reason you give.quote:
Originally posted by ekpolk:
Because you still need a fast oil flow on start-up, even in the summer. A straight 30 or 40 will be way to thick for quick and efficient early lubrication in an engine with tight-fitting tolerances designed with the assumption that the engine will be pumping a relatively light oil on start.quote:
Originally posted by ToyotaNSaturn:
Why not use straight-weight oils when temperatures are high? When ambient air temperatures never dip below 65F
quote:
Did you know that contrary to what many take for granted, higher viscosity in and of itself does not translate into better engine protection. Extensive testing has shown the opposite to be in fact true. As long as a lower-viscosity oil is formulated to resist evaporation and provide high film strength, this lighter oil will actually deliver more complete protection to the engine parts, since its more rapid circulation delivers both better lubrication per se, and far better cooling characteristics... a critical advantage, given that oil flow furnishes up to 30% of an engine's cooling requirements. In short, don't be too concerned with the relatively lower viscosity ratings of some synthetic oils. Synthetics are a whole different ball game from yesteryear's petroleums.
No worrys, I don't take your comments as a personal attack at all. The facts are the facts, and I'm fine with everyone who tries to sort them out in good faith. The others I really don't care about... As a counterpoint, consider this, in the Amsoil context. I'm not worried about any Amsoil puffery here, since I'm presenting their own numbers against one another. At 40C (about 100F) their PAO 10w30 has a vis of about 70cSt. On the other hand, the Straight 30 has a vis of about 85 cSt. At 100C, they're about the same, 11.5 and 11.9, pretty much reflecting the difference between multi and straight oils. I'd love to see a set of datapoints for a lower temp, say 0C, but I'll assume (and it's just an assumption) that they continue to diverge as it gets colder (the pour pts are -54, multi and -36 strt, decent either way). I frankly don't know the point at which the difference becomes critical, but I imagine it varies from engine to engine. No, straight 30 isn't engine poison, but even in the summer in a hot climate, a lot of morning starts are going to happen at temps below 65F, so this really may be a problem. I do know that we won't be making that determination in my engine, however. . .quote:
Originally posted by XS650:
I don't use straight viscosity oils either, although I wouldn't be the least bit concerned about using a straight 30 weight someplace it didn't get below 65F. But not for the reason you give.quote:
Originally posted by ekpolk:
Because you still need a fast oil flow on start-up, even in the summer. A straight 30 or 40 will be way to thick for quick and efficient early lubrication in an engine with tight-fitting tolerances designed with the assumption that the engine will be pumping a relatively light oil on start.quote:
Originally posted by ToyotaNSaturn:
Why not use straight-weight oils when temperatures are high? When ambient air temperatures never dip below 65F
I refer you to http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/3655/VI.html
For viscosity calculations and mobils data sheets for Delvac 30 weight and 10w30 weight.
The straight 30 weight has the same viscosity at 65F as the 10w30 does at 55F.
If you are going to be consistant, then you need to also say that 10w30 is too thick at 55F.
This isn't directed at you personally, but one of the big problems with posts on this board is that so many people blindly make recommendations for certain SAE "viscosities" without giving any consideration to what the actual viscosity of the oil is in the engine in cSt under the conditions being discussed.
I doubt that there is a person on this board (well, maybe a couple) who couldn't make a rational comparison of true oil viscosities at any temperature between about 32F and 150F for a given oil based on spec sheets. But for some reason, few bother.![]()
The amsoil 30 and 10w30 viscosities are close to the Mobil Delvac dino viscosities I used.quote:
Originally posted by ekpolk:
....As a counterpoint, consider this, in the Amsoil context. I'm not worried about any Amsoil puffery here, since I'm presenting their own numbers against one another. At 40C (about 100F) their PAO 10w30 has a vis of about 70cSt. On the other hand, the Straight 30 has a vis of about 85 cSt. At 100C, they're about the same, 11.5 and 11.9, pretty much reflecting the difference between multi and straight oils. I'd love to see a set of datapoints for a lower temp, say 0C, but I'll assume (and it's just an assumption) that they continue to diverge as it gets colder (the pour pts are -54, multi and -36 strt, decent either way). I frankly don't know the point at which the difference becomes critical, but I imagine it varies from engine to engine.
Before 10w30 oils were sufficiently ruggedized, I used straight 30 weight year round for years in mild winter areas of Northern California without a problem. I haven't in over 20 years because there is no longer any reason to.quote:
Originally posted by EmbarkChief:
Maybe striaght 30 isn't so bad, at least in my climate.
quote:
Originally posted by Mamala Bay:
If you want spend a little extra for it, the Delo400 10-30 is one great oil and it's the only conventional oil I would use. Not to say the Chevron, Castrol or Pennzoil is not a good oil but for me I have driven all brands of oil hard in very dusty condition and I have to say the Delo held up the best. It was a little experiment I wanted to see for myself...Changed the oil every 3,000 miles. The Delo could had gone a lot further. I was driving a 1,000 miles a week.
What I DON'T like about this board: Guys in Hawaii talking to guys in Nashville about cold climate. You know, it's not too late to snail-mail you guys some snow. Packed in dry ice and COD, mind youquote:
Originally posted by Mamala Bay:
Know what ya meant Toyota...Tough living in cold climate...
Delo is a Chevron product, as in Chevron 15w40 Delo. But I am using Chevron's 10w30 now, as it was not formulated for diesel.(DELO).quote:
Originally posted by davefr:
Where does one buy Delo 400 10w30?
I see Delo 400 in 15w40 and straight 30W but never see it in a 10w30.
quote:
Originally posted by Mamala Bay:
If you want spend a little extra for it, the Delo400 10-30 is one great oil and it's the only conventional oil I would use. Not to say the Chevron, Castrol or Pennzoil is not a good oil but for me I have driven all brands of oil hard in very dusty condition and I have to say the Delo held up the best. It was a little experiment I wanted to see for myself...Changed the oil every 3,000 miles. The Delo could had gone a lot further. I was driving a 1,000 miles a week.