Should I switch from Syn to Dino in my Nissan VQ?

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May 22, 2007
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The latest UOA for my wife's 2007 Quest shows the lead is increasing. Blackstone is recommending a 5K OCI. I have always run syn from new. I actually haven't used a dino oil since the early 1990s. PP, Amsoil and now Liqui Moly is what has been in the Quest's VQ. With such a short OCI recommendation should I switch over to PYB along with an Ultra at the next OCI for 5K and just go with it? OR...keep up with a syn like I have been doing. Cost isn't a factor as the engine only holds 4 liters. I am trying to get the lead reduced to a normal level and keep the engine clean so it lasts for a loooong time. When I look into the oil filler opening, it looks like the day I got her......clean, no varnish at all. 5K would be about 8 months or so given my wife's driving pattern. Does anyone have any idea why the lead is up? I have a post over in the UOA section but so far no one has addressed the question as to why lead is increasing. I know there are only two samples to use for comparison but it is all the data I have. Lead is up but copper is not. It was 7 this time as well as last time. The layers of a bearing - IIRC - go from inside out as a lead / tin mix, then nickel, then a copper / lead mix and finally steel. If the bearings were wearing wouldn't copper and tin be up? Copper was the same in both samples. The tin went down in this sample from 2 to 1. I don't use any fuel system cleaners or run any octane boosters. Any input on either or both questions is greatly appreciated. The Blackstone report is below for those interested. [img:center][/img]
 
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If the copper layer is worn away it's just streaking lead possibly? I think you should reduce the interval with a cheaper syn like QSUD or maybe Maxlife.
 
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You could run some short OCIs on conventional. I did that on my G37 with PYB 5w-30 for quite a while. I'm not sure where your lead is coming from either. I would suggest tackling the silicon might help, too, at least to eliminate another variable. I don't think the Amsoil is doing you "wrong" in any way. You're maybe not getting your value out of it. Maybe one of the lower tier Amsoil offerings would be a better choice now, or a cheaper synthetic as already suggested, or your dino idea, or a thicker oil. In any event, you can only try so much at once. wink Everything aside from the silicon and lead is absolutely fine.
 
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I have been wondering the same thing about my VQ. Im thinking pennzoil yellow bottle. Im currently running kendall 5w-40 and I havent noticed any difference good or bad. Unfortunately I have bigger issues with it right now. 175K and still kickin cool
 
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Amsoil distributes one of the finer Air Filters(AEE74). This would be a good starting point in hopefully lowering the silicon in the Quest. MS5K w a Fram Ultra for 2 short 5k OCI's might be a good means of attacking the Fe issues. My .02.
 
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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I'd try a 40 weight. Maybe a 5W40.
I have heard a rule of thumb, when the lead number is more than the iron, change to thicker oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: walk23
Amsoil distributes one of the finer Air Filters(AEE74). This would be a good starting point in hopefully lowering the silicon in the Quest.
Yep, it can't hurt. I don't know how the air box is designed in the OP's engine, but in my G37, one has to be cautious with the boxes. They're very simple, but not exactly foolproof. If one isn't cautious, one can easily pinch something and not have a proper seal.
 
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Sadly, the Amsoil air filter may not be available, as they are discontinuing production of air filters. Agree to check filtration. Amsoil OE is a good choice for you, as it compares price wise with the dinos you mentioned, and on't be wasted at a 5k interval.
 
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Oct 7, 2005
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Maryland
Originally Posted By: LexAtlanta
Should I switch from Syn to Dino in my Nissan VQ?
I always read owners manual with a grain of salt, but isn't it written there that "Nissan recommnd mineral oil"?
 
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Maybe if you fix the problem with high Silicon, the Lead problem will go with it. Put in a new filter and check for leaks in the air intake system.
 
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There are many oil discussions about the VQ35 engine. When I got the current Nissan with said engine I read everything possible. After many UOA's and testing the Nissan world has discovered that the oils this VQ likes best are M1 0w-40 or the European Castrols (German or Belgium). The VQ seems to like a bit thicker oil. My UOA's have been good and after the second change of GC the lead wear went down quite a bit. I currently have M1 0w-40 in the sump and I will do another UOA when I change it. If you are interested in a bit of shorter OCI you can do regular Castrol white bottle as the VQ likes that quite a bit. And you can do 5w-30 with that one no problem. My OCI with very hard driving is 5.5k-6k miles usually. With about 1-1.5qt added in between since my VQ burns it. With M1 the oil consumption went down though.
 
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Joined
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Leads could be coming from fuel. Tanker delivering your gas station's fuel might be delivering airports too. Southern location and vq... use any 0w40. RP, M1, PZL, Cstrl,... are some available at most autopart stores. What oil filter?
 
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Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Leads could be coming from fuel. Tanker delivering your gas station's fuel might be delivering airports too.
Could be coming from wheel weights, stray bullets, or bizarre fishing accidents too.
 
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Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Leads could be coming from fuel.
Definitely not. Otherwise ALL your oxygen sensors would be dead after 100 miles.
 
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LexAtlanta - I owned a 2004 Quest. The 2004-06 VQ35 engines had a tendency of burning oil and if you extended the OCI too long (6,000+), The oil would get low enough that it would start to affect the timing chain. Quite a few owners got burned by having to replace timing chain guide and in some cases the timing chain around 100k miles. I thought they fixed this for 2007 and newer Quest but who knows since some of those owners are having the same issue. I would highly recommend switching to dino and changing your oil around 4000 miles. Once i read what was going on with these engines, I never went past 5000 miles OCI and most of the time I was closer to 4000 miles. My wife's driving was mostly city driving with occasional long trips. You can use synthetic but i found Supertech conventional was just as good for that short of an OCI. BTW, I had that van for just under 10 years. It had 150k+ miles when we traded it in last year. Only engine issues were CAmshaft and crankshaft sensor replacements. Now the trim and interior plastic is a different story...... Good luck.
 
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