Should I Stretch Oil Change Or Not?

[Propflux01]

I have 2 new cars, both had oil changes at the dealer at 3700 miles. I want to run 5K intervals on my oil changes. Here's what I was thinking:

1. Change oil at 7K. Change again at 10K. Go 5K intervals from then on.

2. Wait till 10K, change oil, then go 5K intervals from then on.

Cars were both serviced at dealer with Dealer bulk 5-20 and Genuine Hyundai filter. Service intervals are 3750 Severe, and 7500 Normal. My commutes consist of about 85% highway, 15% City. My main concern is running the oil for that longer interval until I get back on my 5K tracks. Does anyone see a problem with this or am I too paranoid going that far?

 

[bigjl]

If the dealer bulk isn't Full Synthetic I wouldn't leave it in more than 3750miles.

If it was a quality Full Synthetic then I would happily leave it for 7500 miles especially with your usage profile, which isn't that severe.

 

[Quest]

if you worry about fuel dilution issues (due to engine designs, frequent short trips, etc.), 5K OCI on conventional GL5/SN oil should work out nicely.

syn should be good for 7k, but anything beyond that ,it's better to (a) stay with whatever factory recommends until warranty is over; and (b) get some UOA done to determine how bad the situation is (TBN in your oil, fuel dilution, etc.)

Q.

 

[FoxS]

New car = oci no longer than warranty requirements

 

[gfh77665]

Originally Posted By: Propflux01
1. Change oil at 7K. Change again at 10K. Go 5K intervals from then on.


This. ^^^ Its too easy to just do one extra change. Who knows, might even clean some break in debris from the new engines, and it keeps you IN warranty.

I do even 5K with conventionals, and 10K with syns, after my warranties are up.

 

[Warstud]

Since there new the oil should probably have short OCI's to remove the wear metals.

 

[LargeCarManX2]

I would go with your first answer:

"1. Change oil at 7K. Change again at 10K. Go 5K intervals from then on."

 

[LeakySeals]

1. Speedo aligned, all is well. Its a good idea. I go 7k so its always some strange number I have to remember. Find myself thinking "was it 258 or 268?".

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: bigjl
If the dealer bulk isn't Full Synthetic I wouldn't leave it in more than 3750miles.
If it was a quality Full Synthetic then I would happily leave it for 7500 miles especially with your usage profile, which isn't that severe.


I would be real careful about Hyundai bulk oil, as it might just be the cheapest dino available. If you are just driving mostly highway, 5K miles on a dino should be OK, but if you want to go more than that then look up the oil guides for Castrol, Mobil, Shell and Liqui Moly as 10K miles should be possible with a good Full Synthetic oil once the warranty is over.

 

[JHZR2]

Hyundai will screw you if you have a warranty concern without good records or a dealer receipt. Id go by the book until warranty ends. Then go by what UOA tells you is OK for your profile.

 

[skate1968]

Hi folks,

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Hyundai will screw you if you have a warranty concern without good records or a dealer receipt.


From what both my family and friends have told me, this is very true.

regards,

s

 

[Donald]

Does anyone every take into account the oil sump size vs displacement when figuring OCI. My 6 cyl Jeep has a 6 QT and my 5.7L GM V8 had 5 QT. The Cummins has a 12 QT.

 

[QuietPortage]

Do you meet the severe service requirements?

If yes, use a good conventional like Pennzoil conventional at 3,750.

If not, use a good synthetic at 7,500.

 

[Propflux01]

Warranty requirements are:
Severe Service - 3750 mile OCI
Normal Service - 7500 mile OCI

Either choice would result in OCI's being within the Warranty requirements. I was just worried if the OIL would hold up OK or not.

I'm assuming the Bulk Dealer Oil is Quaker State 5w20.

Cars currently have 6200 Miles on one, 5700 Miles on the other. Both drive aproximately the same route and distances

 

[QuietPortage]

I noticed that the owners manual specifies severe service for cold conditions or where the roads are salted, so I'm going with Pennzoil Conventional and 3,750 on ours. I would much prefer 7,500, but I don't want to have warranty issues.

What salty roads have to do with oil life I don't know, but I'll do severe service in the winters for now.

 

[bilibako2]

In ours-4 months and 4 k miles-like at March-July-Nov.
Checking under the hood stuff twice a month.Its a my
personal preference.Engine is expensive but oil/filter changes
are not.I'm DIY and used any oil and filter on sale,but lately
synthetics and bring those used oil to the store to recycle.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Does anyone every take into account the oil sump size vs displacement when figuring OCI. My 6 cyl Jeep has a 6 QT and my 5.7L GM V8 had 5 QT. The Cummins has a 12 QT.


Yes, it's all included when the manufacturer figures out the recommended max OCI. Most commercial trucks have big sumps just to allow longer OCI's and infrequent oil level checks.
Some race cars have the minimum sump capacity that the designer could figure out to keep the weight to a minimum, so the OCI will be very short and the oil level will need very frequent checking.
Air cooled engines like the Porsch are different as the oil plays a more important role in cooling, so the oil cooler is bigger and the total capacity about double a similar size normal engine. That makes oil changes real expensive as their turbos are real hot runners and even with the best oils need short OCI's.

 

[Dominic]

Originally Posted By: LargeCarManX2
I would go with your first answer:

"1. Change oil at 7K. Change again at 10K. Go 5K intervals from then on."


Agreed

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: Bandito440
I noticed that the owners manual specifies severe service for cold conditions or where the roads are salted, so I'm going with Pennzoil Conventional and 3,750 on ours. I would much prefer 7,500, but I don't want to have warranty issues.

What salty roads have to do with oil life I don't know, but I'll do severe service in the winters for now.


Not seen that in a definition of severe service recently, but any kind of fine particles in the air can work their way into the oil over time, so offroading is defined as severe service because fine Silicon particles are bad news in the oil. No air filtration system is perfect and the rings and valve guide seals are not either, so traces always finish up in the oil.
Not sure how serious Sodium Chloride is in oil, so I will take a look later.

 

[fauxchemist]

It matters how much you care about your cars. If you care about them as much as I care about my Jeep, dont go no 7,500 miles on bulk anything regardless of usage pattern. If you want a more realistic and financially sound answer 7,500 will be fine. No more than 7,500 unless you know more about the bulk product being used.