3.5K miles so far this year on this oil and 3x hard track days. Oil was in the 270F + range for ~5 hours during that event last weekend. No more track until fall it's looking like so may pull sample once I hit 5K miles. I've added ~1/2 a qt so far.
Should I push HPL longer than 4K OCIs with track use?
- Thread starter TiGeo
- Start date
Good. As you said, let UOA data be your guide. Share here if you’re so inclined, pretty please.
You know I will.
It's definitely gonna perform better than Liquimoly. I think the Euro or No VII oil is gonna give you good results.
Ok mid-year/OCI sample collected. Not quite 4K mi...probably a 7-8K year total this year as I split daily duties with my W8 Passat wagon. 3x track days on this...sustained 270-280 oil temps for ~3 hours. Have 5 more track days in H2. Will see how this looks. Did add ~1/2 qt fresh so far...I don't typically see much if any consumption.
Was hoping to see this
Let us know how the results look
I'm looking to get Amsoil FS 5w40 Euro or HPL Euro 5w40 for my 700hp X7 M50i (V8 TT) and my 900hp G80 M3 (inline-6) running 1050cc port-injection with 90% of the time E70-E85%
Ok ladies and gents, here you go, took a month but whatever. Looks great for ~6 mos/4K and 3 track days where the oil temp was sitting around 270 deg F the entire weekend (I estimate about 3 hours of actual driving). 10/10 recommend. Will keep it in and push the whole year on it so 5 more track days and probably 4-5K more miles. 13.11 cSt is fantastic (assuming that is right). Metals dropped which is great, I did swap out intake pieces in an attempt to fix a possible leak/dust in my intake tube shown by a spike in wear metals last change (assuming/made the most sense as to why). Note I did add a ~1/2 qt so a small % of more fresh oil here.
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6 qts.
In your case, yes.
In my case ‘no way, I have too many ocd issues.
In my case ‘no way, I have too many ocd issues.
Everyone has to find their comfort zone. I know plenty of folks that change it each track day/event which is completely overkill to me but hey, their car so they can do it after each session for all I care. I have tried to provide real-world data to help folk make these choices.
LM seems to work best in your car with the least amount of wear metals.
Why not just stick with that?
It looses it's viscosity is the main reason - look at the last run....6 mos/4K miles/3x hard track days, still in grade, only oil change I've had that did that! I had the lowest ending viscosity in my dataset with the Molygen. I would need to change the LM after every event (even though it is "free" using FCP Euro). Finally, on the wear metals - the reason I am seeing higher wear metals (hypothesis of course) is simply that 1) it's being used more on track than during my use-period for the Molygen and being pushed much harder than it ever was with the LM 2) I have had mechanical issues (timing chain tensioner is one that increased wear metals) and a leaky intake which also appears to have increased wear metals during the HPL use portion of the dataset which woudl have impacted any other oil in the same manner. Of course I'd have to now go back to the LM Molygen for several runs to gather data on that to have the data to be able to say anything.
If cost were the driving factor: Frequently changing the oil for the cost of return shipping from FCP Euro, and saving money on UOAs to spend towards entry fees.
I suspect this is the hobby inside the hobby, so UOAs and experimenting is part of your fun. So UOA is worth it.
I suspect this is the hobby inside the hobby, so UOAs and experimenting is part of your fun. So UOA is worth it.
100% would be cheaper.
Interesting observation yesterday. I have had a leaky/weeping oil drain plug since having the oil pan replaced a few years ago as part of my timing chain tensioner repair. I am using an aftermarket Uro brand aluminum pan and magnetic drain plug. I bought a few different mag drain plugs to try out to see if I can get it to stop the slow weep. Decided to swap it out yesterday b/c I was doing some other odds/ends (leaned my coolant mix to 70% water + Redline Water Wetter) so drained the oil into a new larger open-top drain pan (with a great pour design to avoid spillage) I got at Wallyworld. Made sure it was clean etc. b/c clearly I reused my HPL fill with ~4.5K on it. After I was finished, I cleaned out the pan with rags and noted some black material I haven't seen before - basically would smear and leave a mark on the pan. The magnet on the old plug was also coated in what looked like the same thing. I didn't grab pictures unfortunately. Is this the famed carbonaceous material some have noted when using HPL? No...it's not MoS2 from a few years ago that I used....
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I’m with you on this one.
My average monthly car and truck payments have been $1,300 for the last 18 years.
I didn’t buy them to test engine oil.
Thanks for this
Curious to know thisInteresting observation yesterday. I have had a leaky/weeping oil drain plug since having the oil pan replaced a few years ago as part of my timing chain tensioner repair. I am using an aftermarket Uro brand aluminum pan and magnetic drain plug. I bought a few different mag drain plugs to try out to see if I can get it to stop the slow weep. Decided to swap it out yesterday b/c I was doing some other odds/ends (leaned my coolant mix to 70% water + Redline Water Wetter) so drained the oil into a new larger open-top drain pan (with a great pour design to avoid spillage) I got at Wallyworld. Made sure it was clean etc. b/c clearly I reused my HPL fill with ~4.5K on it. After I was finished, I cleaned out the pan with rags and noted some black material I haven't seen before - basically would smear and leave a mark on the pan. The magnet on the old plug was also coated in what looked like the same thing. I didn't grab pictures unfortunately. Is this the famed carbonaceous material some have noted when using HPL? No...it's not MoS2 from a few years ago that I used....
Ok, track season is over for me....8 days this year. ~8K miles, changed in January. I've used ~2 qts so the oil did get a bit of a freshen up which I suspect will be reflected in the UOA results - so 1/4 qt/track day seems reasonable for this use. Oil temps on-track will sit in the 260-280 range for any given session so figure 8 days x ~1.3 hours a day is roughly 11 hours at those temps. There was oil in the intake tract/charge hoses so just normal PCV function when you are pushing up to ~1.5g at times. Could do a PCV replacement plate/catch can setup which of course eliminates that issue but then you add in positive crankcase pressure at idle and needing to manage the can in the winter...not ready for that yet. I did change the filter out about mid-way for good measure. I sent the sample to BS this week...so about a month I suspect to get the results back. Also decided to change my oil pan gasket while I was under there b/c it's been seeping a bit. The bottom end is very clean from what I can see up past the baffle. We'll see how it all looks and whether this was worth it or if I should just do 2x changes a year regardless. Used a Fram Endurance filter this change.
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