Should I modify my OCI for conditions?

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I haven't updated my profile, but I recently moved to Utah. The vehicle is a 2012 4Runner Limited, the factory specs 0w20 on 10k/1 year intervals, but has the exception of oil weight for towing, high speed, etc.

Since I am making a lot of trips back and forth over the Rockies for this relocation, and doing some towing, I did my last oil change with Mobil 1 EP 5w30. I really don't want to change the oil more than once a year, and figured this was best. According to Mobil's site, this oil is good for 15k OCIs with the exception of frequent towing, extremely dusty conditions, etc.

Where I am in Utah is pretty dry, like much of it. My work site is outside of town in a pretty windy/dusty area, and the day after washing the 4Runner it is coated in dust just for a one-way trip to work. My commute is extremely easy, 12 miles one way with half a dozen stop lights but mostly 45-55MPH cruising. The last bit is about .75 miles down a dirt road. The road isn't very long, but it puts out a lot of dust, and there is tons of new house construction going on in the area of my commute... which means I'm often driving through dust clouds on the way home. I have replaced the air filter twice, the second time two months ago, and it's already dirtier than probably the first 30k miles I put on the vehicle.

Having gone back and forth a couple times to Colorado, I've already put about 5k miles on the 4Runner in a couple months--way more than I usually do.

This all kind of has me thinking I need to shorten my OCI for the vehicle to maybe 6 months or so. It's a pain in the rear to change the oil on this thing due to all the skid plates, but it seems like this falls under the extreme use exceptions on Mobil's website. Should I consider something else other than the EP as well?

We just bought a Mazda in Colorado and the dealer suggests sticking with the 4 month severe service OCI due to dust and so forth in CO, but it is far less dusty there than this (and I think they want to sell the $80 synthetic oil changes).

I tried to call Mobil to ask, but they are closed on Saturdays.
 
If it were me I would do whatever the manufacturer recommends for severe service including changing the air filter on that schedule.
 
I'd keep with the 5w30 since they allow it, and change every 6months/5k miles maybe even longer.

My dad has an FJ Cruiser (also 4.0L) and has gone about 10k miles on this oil change and he goes off-reading every weekend. That means 50+ miles of rough dirt roads.
 
At the risk of ruffling feathers, I'd change the oil as often as necessary to keep the engine free of varnish.

Those Toyota 4-Runners are nice; I see no reason to neglect them.
 
Originally Posted By: walterjay
If it were me I would do whatever the manufacturer recommends for severe service including changing the air filter on that schedule.


Well, your post prompted me to pull out the maintenance guide. I've looked at it several times, just not recently. It specifies when driving on dirt or dusty roads, towing, using a car top carrier, heavy loading, short tripping in cold weather and extensive idling/low speed driving I should be changing oil on 6mos/5k miles.

It also looks like I should replace the ATF at 60k (which I was going to about now anyway) and be changing drive train fluids every 30k.

Interestingly, the transfer case says change every 30k if in dusty conditions, but the front / rear only if towing. Must be a vent in there.

I guess that answers my question.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
At the risk of ruffling feathers, I'd change the oil as often as necessary to keep the engine free of varnish.

Those Toyota 4-Runners are nice; I see no reason to neglect them.


They are nice, unfortunately it's living a much harder life now than it ever has.

The insides are clean, what you can see from the oil filler. Not sure that's a very good indicator, though, as it's so tiny. It's always had Toyota and Mobil oil so far, though.
 
Anything and everything said by anyone (including the dealer) is pure speculation until you have a UOA done. Of course, you can change oil and throw it away as often as you like. I prefer to know the internal condition of my engine and oil. For what its worth, you can have an oil analysis done for less than 1/2 the cost of that $80 synthetic oil change.
 
I would not go much over 7500 without a UOA. Napa UOA is $15. M1 is an excellent oil but 15k seems high to me.

If your changing it yourself the 5qt of quality synthetic oil is about $25 at Walmart. Toss in a decent filter for $6 to $8.
 
I was going to go to 10k and do a UOA this time, but according to the maintenance guide I should be changing it about... now (right at 5k on this oil).

I do the oil changes myself, so I won't spend $80. The Mazda is great, they designed it to be incredibly easy and it takes just under 5qts of oil. With the 4Runner I have to remove an air chute, plastic under-engine cover, a skid plate, and an access cover to change the oil--which is why I prefer not to do it so often. It also holds 6.6 qts of oil, so it costs a bit more as the single quarts are expensive. Unfortunately my box of filters and one quart of oil is in Colorado because I didn't think I'd need it just yet... ugh, and my cartridge wrench.
 
Originally Posted By: MisterBen
... Which means I'm often driving through dust clouds on the way home. I have replaced the air filter twice, the second time two months ago, and it's already dirtier than probably the first 30k miles I put on the vehicle.

I would try to use pre-filter for the air system. I have discarded pantyhose in the intake on front of the air box. I clean or replace it once a year since we don't have much dust in where I live. In your case you may need to clean or replace the pre-flter more often.

I think if you can keep the air clean before it enters your engine it is better, also you need high capacity oil filter Fram Ultra is one of the higher capacity filters on market.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: MisterBen
... Which means I'm often driving through dust clouds on the way home. I have replaced the air filter twice, the second time two months ago, and it's already dirtier than probably the first 30k miles I put on the vehicle.

I would try to use pre-filter for the air system. I have discarded pantyhose in the intake on front of the air box. I clean or replace it once a year since we don't have much dust in where I live. In your case you may need to clean or replace the pre-flter more often.

I think if you can keep the air clean before it enters your engine it is better, also you need high capacity oil filter Fram Ultra is one of the higher capacity filters on market.


The pre-filter is not a bad idea, I will have to look into that. These filters though actually have a sort of pre-filter on them. It uses what looks like a standard paper filter element, but it has a 3/16" fiber "pad" glued to the face of the paper filter. Not sure why they use this unique setup, but I've been replacing with Wix/NAPA Gold filters and they have all had it (same with factory). Because of that, I think they are fine but it could still make them last longer.

These also use cartridge filters, and there are no Fram Ultras for this application--only standard orange and Tough Guards. It says absolutely nothing about the filtering capabilities, but the OEM filters I have been using look like they are better built than the aftermarket ones... but looks don't mean anything for the filtration capability.
 
I live on gravel roads and frequent them daily for several miles each way. I just put Filter Minder's on my air boxes and change the air filter when it starts to register a change in vacuum on the gauge. No "pre-filter". A air filter becomes better for filtration over time. No need to change till vacuum increases on the gauge showing that the air filter is approaching saturation. Haven't changed the stock air filter on my 2015 Silverado 2500HD 6.0L since I bought it new over 23,000 miles and 1.5 years ago. A significant portion of that is dusty gravel roads. Still better than average mpg for this particular class of pickup. It has a lifetime average of 14 mpg and typically gets 17-18 mpg on road trips. Not bad for a 6.0 gasser in a 3/4 ton 4x4.
 
Originally Posted By: MisterBen
I was going to go to 10k and do a UOA this time, but according to the maintenance guide I should be changing it about... now (right at 5k on this oil).

...


Why not take a sample, leave it in and base your OCI on the results of the UOA? I'd think that with M1EP you should be good for 10k...after all, there is a lot of highway driving if you've just done almost 5k in two months....especially since it's a pain to remove the skid plates.
 
Okay hold on a second and think this through.
1.5 miles round trip on a dirt road. Roughly 480 trips a year (240 work + 240 personal) means 720 miles a year on gravel / dirt. On a 15,000 mi year that's less than 5% on dirt. I'm thinking if the filter is doing it's job that's not severe. How many of you would consider under 5% short trips frequent?
 
If your inlet tract is up to snuff, dusty conditions will not be a factor to your oci.

I've got several uoa's showing it not to be an issue even with 2-3 times as many miles on gravel as you are talking about.

In my conditions, it looks like 20,000 miles would be a reasonable interval for an air filter interval. But even at that, with 20k on the filter it is only a restriction above 4,500 rpm. Below that point it is negligible.

For my expedition, 10k appears to be the upper limit, even with ep rated oils (15k). This includes a moderate amount of towing, but not as severe as you are looking at in the mountains.

Just some thoughts to ponder
 
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