Shot down at tire shop due to dumb rules

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I can concur with new or higher traction tires, going in the rear for the vast majority of cases (99.99%).

As stated, it's about the vehicle's handling and reactions under the differing setups.

But here's one of the valid questions AJ posed that no one answered because tey might not know the answer.

How is braking in a straight line affected by grippier tires in the front vs grippier tires in the rear? Most folks don't know this but it actually depends on the vehicle's weight distribution. The more front heavy the vehicle is, the more important it is to have the good tires on the rear.

Yes, weight transfer throws more weight to the front, but you must try to understand the dynamics of tire traction and how it is affected by load to fully grasp the outcome.

Tire traction increases with the load on the tire, but the increase is not linear. In other words if you have 2 tires with equal 50% load on them, they will have greater traction than transferring 100% of the load to one tire. Now that may seem intuitive and simple since the one tire has less surface area than 2, but here's another example;

4 tires with each tire experiencing 25% of the total load (would only happen under braking if the car's weight was pretty rear-biased) will have more traction than a car where the front tires each has 40% of the total load and the rear tires each only experience 10%.

By putting the igher traction tires in the front, yes, they have more load to work with, but they will also cause increased weight transfer to the front axle reducing the rear tires' grip even further. This also makes the vehicle much more unstable under braking.

When a vehicle's static weight distribution is heavily front-biased, this has the greatest negative effect when the grippier tires are placed in front. In fact, if the vehicle has a closer to 50:50 weight distribution (or even a rear-heavy distribution), it can handle grippier tires in front better than a front-heavy vehicle. Of course, the vehicle's CG also makes a difference in dynamic weight transfer. Now if the vehicle is heavily front-biased (over ~61%, a Neon being ~65% front) it's possible to actually get worse straight line braking distances with the snow tires in front vs in the rear only, and stability under emergency braking will undoubtedly be bad.

Someone interested enough to not mind the effort involved can actually test this for themselves (and for their own vehicle) the next time they find a snow covered empty lot. Try braking in a straight line from a set speed (say ~35mph) with snow tires in front only and with snow tires in the rear only. If the vehicle is very front heavy, you could see braking distances as much as 1/3rd longer with the snow tires in front.

The reduction in rear traction vs. front also makes the car much more unstable under cornering. While an excessively understeering car is also slow, it will be easier to complete a slalom in an excessively understeering car than an excessively oversteering one. The transitions in the slaloms and the resultant weight transfer will make the rear swing wider and wider making the car difficult to control.

As folks have already mentioned, most people can contend with understeer, while it takes practice to deal with oversteer, especially snap oversteer when it's not expected or intentionally provoked, which is why it's recommended that the grippier tires go in the rear.

A few winters ago, a friend of mine had 2 winter tires put on her FWD car, thinking (as many folks seem to), that the vehicle is fwd, the snow tires should go in front for the winter. The shop that put them on for her never mentioned the dangers of doing that and while she was driving on a curve on the interstate, a vehicle in front started swerving from hitting a patch of ice-covered snow, she hit her brakes and the rear of her car immediately came around, she slid sideways off her lane and was T-boned by an SUV.

She was extremely fortunate to escape serious injury. The insurance company paid for her totalled vehicle and when I found out about the whole incident, I was mad that the folks at the shop never advised her about the dangers.

As someone stated, in some parts of Canada, it's illegal to mount studded tires only in the front because it unbalances the vehicles handling and stability that badly. Even in the US, there are some states where insurance companies do not have to pay out for accidents in the winter if it's discovered that the vehicle that lost control had winter tires mounted only on the front axle.


Max
 
4 new tires is the way to go.

Can you address the stopping distance with 2 snows on front verses only all-season tires on all 4 corners? My bet = shorter w/ 2 snows on front than all all-seasons and no getting stuck, like if the snows were on the rear.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
4 new tires is the way to go.

Can you address the stopping distance with 2 snows on front verses only all-season tires on all 4 corners? My bet = shorter w/ 2 snows on front than all all-seasons and no getting stuck, like if the snows were on the rear.

As mentioned, it would depend on the front:rear weight ratio (and of course, some all-seasons are much worse in snow/ice than others). On heavily front weight biased cars, the tests have shown it's possible for braking distances to be longer with snows on the fronts only and all-seasons on the rear as opposed to the same all-season on all 4 because the rear tires lockup easier from the added traction loss caused by even more weight transfer to the front and ABS then releases/pulses the brakes more.

One thing for sure is that it will destabilize a front heavy car resulting in poor control under braking even in a straight line (and dangerous loss of control in any situation other than straight line).

With the snows in the rear, traction is equalized better front to rear resulting in more time actually spent in the braking portion vs. the 'release' portion on ABS, and without the potential loss of directional stability.

As far as getting stuck goes though, there is no question that better traction on the drive wheels will reduce the likelihood of getting stuck.


Max

P.S. Oh and yes, absolutely no question 4 new tires is the best way to go.
 
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I slapped my new snows on for the 1st time this year. The tires are a help, but I just don't feel like this car is very stable in snow. I'm "feelin" the 4 good tires thing. Honestly, I'm getting an education, because some cars seem much better than others. ftr, the CRV w/ Blizzak WS-50s is awesome... full size over, of course.
 
We used to always put the new ones on the front. I would now have the new ones put on the rear. Just like the tire industry recommends.
 
here's an even funnier story.
i go into walmart before a 600 mile round trip to get my all seasons put on the 1992 Galant....i tell them to mount them and put the good ones in the back (not going there) and they do.
i drive to MA and it feels like my fillings were going to rattle loose. I get home and rip the hubcaps off to find NO weights....i figure, hmmmm, maybe the static balanced them and the weights are on the inside....NOPE, sure enough they didn't balance them....since all i asked for was for them to mount them.....uhhh, who has tires mounted but not balanced!
 
Advising the customer is one thing , but putting constraints on what the customer CAN ask for is nutty.
 
i guess next time i have to tell them, "take the winter tire off each rim and place in my trunk. mount one all season tire on each rim, balance and then install on the vehicle. tighten all lug nuts and torque before driving car off lift"
 
I assume that balancing tires is an extra charge. Therefore, they have to have your permission to do that. You didn't give them that permission. OTOH, they should have cornered you about that.
 
The local mom and pop places ask me about balancing depending on what tires I've brought them. Usually they've asked me on Drag Radials if I really wanted balancing. Even if the car was track only, I wouldn't run an unbalanced tire.
 
I just measured my tire's temp after driving on a cool +62f road. Fronts were +90f and the rears were +80 to + 84f across the tread, so I guess they are doing different things.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I just measured my tire's temp after driving on a cool +62f road. Fronts were +90f and the rears were +80 to + 84f across the tread, so I guess they are doing different things.


try measuring at the outside, middle and inside of the tread of the tire. it will tell you a lot about your alignment.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I just measured my tire's temp after driving on a cool +62f road. Fronts were +90f and the rears were +80 to + 84f across the tread, so I guess they are doing different things.


You should also measure the road surface temperature. I think you'll find it to be significantly higher that the ambient air temperature. Plus, be careful - different road surfaces will give different readings. You want to measure the one you are actually driving on.
 
On a side story, Costco recently refused to sell me other than a V-rated tire for a vehicle that absolutely cannot reach 130 . . . because that's what the Michelin online tire selector told them.

They would not mount the H-rated version on the vehicle, which was $200 less for the set.

Needless to say, no sale for Costco that day.
 
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