I didn't see the fluid, but if it wasn't recogniseable on sight as ATF, my experience is the transmissions have issues over half the times.
Shift flare after fluid change
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I didn't see the fluid, but if it wasn't recogniseable on sight as ATF, my experience is the transmissions have issues over half the times.
This is how the fluid looked like. It wasnt any grit in it. I also took a magnet and fished around with it without finding anything that wanted to stuck on the magnet.
I dont think its something wrong with the gearbox. It shifted fine before I changed fluid.
I dont think its something wrong with the gearbox. It shifted fine before I changed fluid.
Wait, the guy that sells transmission rebuilding parts thinks you need a transmission rebuild? Look, Sonnax is great, and I’ve used their products for a lot of things. Excellent company based in Vermont.
But if all you know is hammers, everything looks like a nail to you.
The color of the fluid doesn’t mean your box is toast.
Many years ago I flushed the fluid on a Volvo 850, with an AW42 transmission. The car was new to me, and I had every record back to the bill of lading when it was taken off the boat from Sweden (military sale).
The fluid had never been changed. 140,000 miles. It came out jet black. I mean absolutely opaque black. Like used diesel engine oil.
That transmission shifted perfectly, smooth, and worked great for the rest of the cars life.
Haha yeah well
I didnt really listen to that actually. I know by my own experience that automatics usually have pretty dark fluid in them if they arent maintained regulary. And here in Sweden where manual car is the most common still, people listen to dealers saying its "a lifetime oil" in their auto gearbox so they never change it. And then I buy that car "full serviced at Volvo" and the gearbox runs with factory fluid in it.
However. Ravenol t-iv syntetic is on its way from Germany. A little bit higher viscosity, especially at 100⁰C. Hopefully that will help.
If the gearbox starts to behave before I get the package I can use it in a Saab 9-3 I have. So no harm done whatever happens.
So an update then...
I flushed 20 l of Ravenol T-IV yesterday. No improvement. It even became slightly worse.
So now I dont know what to do. It really feels like its an adaptationproblem or valvebody.
But the weird thing is that in sport mode or manual (Geartronic-mode) the shifts are firm and quick. But as soon as I go to D it starts to flare. Except when the transfluid is cold. It shifts fine even in drive.
So what can it possible be?
Internal leakage in the valvebody when warm or TCM-fault (not adapting) is my guesses.
However. I have booked the car for fault tracing at our local Volvo dealer. But its more then 2 weeks until they could take it in. I hope the clutches isnt gone by then.
I flushed 20 l of Ravenol T-IV yesterday. No improvement. It even became slightly worse.
So now I dont know what to do. It really feels like its an adaptationproblem or valvebody.
But the weird thing is that in sport mode or manual (Geartronic-mode) the shifts are firm and quick. But as soon as I go to D it starts to flare. Except when the transfluid is cold. It shifts fine even in drive.
So what can it possible be?
Internal leakage in the valvebody when warm or TCM-fault (not adapting) is my guesses.
However. I have booked the car for fault tracing at our local Volvo dealer. But its more then 2 weeks until they could take it in. I hope the clutches isnt gone by then.
Is there a problem with using Sport Mode exclusively in this car?
I dont think so. But in sport mode it behaves like I wanted it to do when I was 20.
high reva and sensitive gaspedal.Okay so I think I have found the problem. This is the SLT solenoid in the valve body. Actual current is differing from asked current. Cannot see the pressures in Volvo Vida but I guess this shows pretty much the same. There is probably an internal leak in the valve body that showed up when I put fresh fluid inside it.
The other solenoids didnt differ anything with actual current and asked current.
The other solenoids didnt differ anything with actual current and asked current.
Sometimes manufacturers don't have clean breakpoints when they make changes. I've seen it happen dozens of times during my career at GM. We would start a using a new part then the material dept would "find" a few racks of the old parts and the went on line to be used. You may have trans that actually needs the new trans fluid. Resetting adapts is not called for when doing a fluid change so you probably started the situation by doing that. That procedure is only for transmission replacement or major internal repairs. With that being said the car should eventually learn itself back to normal but could take 500+ miles in some cases. I would wait awhile then if it does not get better - go with the new style fluid.
Hi thanks for your reply.
I got the problems first time I changed the fluid with the new thinner oil and resetting of adaptions. After driving around a couple of weeks with that I changed fluid again to the old style 3309 oil. The symptoms are the same.
It seems like something is going on with the SLT solenoid as you can see in my comment here above.
I dont know if it is so good to drive around like this 500 miles more. Feels like I gonna burn the clutches. I tried to do an adaptionrun with the tranny in "learning mode" today. No difference at all. When its cold it shifts perfectly fine.
