Always at recommended. Always using a tire that meets or exceeds OEM spec. Always have even wear and comfortable yet optimal handling.
Share your personal tire psi vs the recomemded
- Thread starter 1978elcamino
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OP here, lots of good comments. Glad Im not the only tire PSI felon here.
I usually run the factory numbers with cold tires. If I'm going on a long highway trip, I'll bump them up 2 or 3 psi. On the big Park Avenue, I ran 33-34 when recommended was 32. Going over the Regal's recommended of 33 was a recipe for a bad ride, and the same was true of the BMW with its 32. On the new-to-me LaCrosse, I'm running 34 instead of recommended 33, and having no troubles.
On my car(2nd gen Prius), Toyota calls for 32 rear/35 front. I bumped it up to 33/38 to help with tire wear and rolling resistance, a local indie shop noticed irregular tire wear on them.
I do 40psi on my parent's van to address rapid shoulder wear. Both cars use the maligned Michelin Defender XT(Costco version) - my car has the updated batch made in 2016 before it was superceded to the Defender T+H and X Tour A/S.
I do 40psi on my parent's van to address rapid shoulder wear. Both cars use the maligned Michelin Defender XT(Costco version) - my car has the updated batch made in 2016 before it was superceded to the Defender T+H and X Tour A/S.
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by RayCJ
2018 Mazda3. Door sticker says 36 / 36. Tire max is 51.
I run 38 / 38 measured cold after sitting all night. At temperature they rise to 40 or 41.
Not concerned about minuscule loss of handling on wet roads because, I know how to drive.
That's funny.
I am an advanced skillset driver but
Someone pulls out in front of you from a left side road on the State Route 133, it's raining lightly, you steer around them to the left, but the rear end whips around with snap oversteer and you are going backwards in to a utility pole.
Jab .. jab JAB the brakes - BAM!
Out the back window you go.
But you are not "way overdoor placard" so maybe you are OK.
Yeah... I've had my fair share of advanced maneuvering courses and I've been on road tracks (maybe just a "couple" times \sarc) -and a really long time ago, was an ASE certified mechanic. One thing all the advanced drivers I know will tell you, is that the right pressure for your tires, is the pressure you experimentally determined through trial and error. -And sometimes, for left handed or right handed tracks, not only is the pressure different front to back, it's different from left to right side. -And in my car, for typical driving conditions, the correct summer (cold) pressure is 2psi over door sticker and in the winter it's 3-4 psi over sticker. When I buy different tires, it will probably be different.
Originally Posted by RayCJ
2018 Mazda3. Door sticker says 36 / 36. Tire max is 51.
I run 38 / 38 measured cold after sitting all night. At temperature they rise to 40 or 41.
Not concerned about minuscule loss of handling on wet roads because, I know how to drive.
That's funny.
I am an advanced skillset driver but
Someone pulls out in front of you from a left side road on the State Route 133, it's raining lightly, you steer around them to the left, but the rear end whips around with snap oversteer and you are going backwards in to a utility pole.
Jab .. jab JAB the brakes - BAM!
Out the back window you go.
But you are not "way overdoor placard" so maybe you are OK.
Yeah... I've had my fair share of advanced maneuvering courses and I've been on road tracks (maybe just a "couple" times \sarc) -and a really long time ago, was an ASE certified mechanic. One thing all the advanced drivers I know will tell you, is that the right pressure for your tires, is the pressure you experimentally determined through trial and error. -And sometimes, for left handed or right handed tracks, not only is the pressure different front to back, it's different from left to right side. -And in my car, for typical driving conditions, the correct summer (cold) pressure is 2psi over door sticker and in the winter it's 3-4 psi over sticker. When I buy different tires, it will probably be different.
Door sticker spec in back and 3 psi over in front.
Set in cool morning after sitting overnight.
Been doing this with current and last four FWD cars.
If I'm going to carry a substantial load in back I'll air up the back tires the 3 psi.
Set in cool morning after sitting overnight.
Been doing this with current and last four FWD cars.
If I'm going to carry a substantial load in back I'll air up the back tires the 3 psi.
2002 Tahoe
- Recommend: 35 psi
- What I run: 42 psi
2006 Altima
- Recommend: 29 psi
- What I run: 40 psi
1993 Camaro
- Recommend: 30 psi F, 30 psi R
- What I run: 50 psi F, 12 psi R (drag slicks and skinny front runners)
The Tahoe and Altima have no abnormal wear at those pressures and drive much better to me.
- Recommend: 35 psi
- What I run: 42 psi
2006 Altima
- Recommend: 29 psi
- What I run: 40 psi
1993 Camaro
- Recommend: 30 psi F, 30 psi R
- What I run: 50 psi F, 12 psi R (drag slicks and skinny front runners)
The Tahoe and Altima have no abnormal wear at those pressures and drive much better to me.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by tony1679
Once those original tires are gone, the sticker is irrelevant.
Where the heck this did gem come from? As long as you are using the same size and load rating as the tire that came on the vehicle the pressure spec indicated on the placard 100% applies still.
Personally, I run placard, because the OEM did the extensive testing necessary to come at the spec they've provided and I am certainly not able to replicate that by the basic observable metrics such as wear pattern or ride quality.
Once those original tires are gone, the sticker is irrelevant.
Where the heck this did gem come from? As long as you are using the same size and load rating as the tire that came on the vehicle the pressure spec indicated on the placard 100% applies still.
Personally, I run placard, because the OEM did the extensive testing necessary to come at the spec they've provided and I am certainly not able to replicate that by the basic observable metrics such as wear pattern or ride quality.
Originally Posted by RayCJ
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by RayCJ
2018 Mazda3. Door sticker says 36 / 36. Tire max is 51.
I run 38 / 38 measured cold after sitting all night. At temperature they rise to 40 or 41.
Not concerned about minuscule loss of handling on wet roads because, I know how to drive.
That's funny.
I am an advanced skillset driver but
Someone pulls out in front of you from a left side road on the State Route 133, it's raining lightly, you steer around them to the left, but the rear end whips around with snap oversteer and you are going backwards in to a utility pole.
Jab .. jab JAB the brakes - BAM!
Out the back window you go.
But you are not "way overdoor placard" so maybe you are OK.
Yeah... I've had my fair share of advanced maneuvering courses and I've been on road tracks (maybe just a "couple" times \sarc) -and a really long time ago, was an ASE certified mechanic. One thing all the advanced drivers I know will tell you, is that the right pressure for your tires, is the pressure you experimentally determined through trial and error. -And sometimes, for left handed or right handed tracks, not only is the pressure different front to back, it's different from left to right side. -And in my car, for typical driving conditions, the correct summer (cold) pressure is 2psi over door sticker and in the winter it's 3-4 psi over sticker. When I buy different tires, it will probably be different.
Most people do not possess the ability or facilities to test the actual contact patch under load. They go with "WeLl THis FElLs GuD!". Yes, you can fine-tune things with actual testing. I would say maybe 0.01% or less of the population fall into the category of willing, and able. I personally will leave a few % on the table to avoid all of the work...especially when a hot summer day can increase PSI by over 5 on the sunny side of the car...I just run what's on the placard and leave it the [censored] alone, unless there is a very compelling reason not to (obvious wear, etc.)
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by RayCJ
2018 Mazda3. Door sticker says 36 / 36. Tire max is 51.
I run 38 / 38 measured cold after sitting all night. At temperature they rise to 40 or 41.
Not concerned about minuscule loss of handling on wet roads because, I know how to drive.
That's funny.
I am an advanced skillset driver but
Someone pulls out in front of you from a left side road on the State Route 133, it's raining lightly, you steer around them to the left, but the rear end whips around with snap oversteer and you are going backwards in to a utility pole.
Jab .. jab JAB the brakes - BAM!
Out the back window you go.
But you are not "way overdoor placard" so maybe you are OK.
Yeah... I've had my fair share of advanced maneuvering courses and I've been on road tracks (maybe just a "couple" times \sarc) -and a really long time ago, was an ASE certified mechanic. One thing all the advanced drivers I know will tell you, is that the right pressure for your tires, is the pressure you experimentally determined through trial and error. -And sometimes, for left handed or right handed tracks, not only is the pressure different front to back, it's different from left to right side. -And in my car, for typical driving conditions, the correct summer (cold) pressure is 2psi over door sticker and in the winter it's 3-4 psi over sticker. When I buy different tires, it will probably be different.
Most people do not possess the ability or facilities to test the actual contact patch under load. They go with "WeLl THis FElLs GuD!". Yes, you can fine-tune things with actual testing. I would say maybe 0.01% or less of the population fall into the category of willing, and able. I personally will leave a few % on the table to avoid all of the work...especially when a hot summer day can increase PSI by over 5 on the sunny side of the car...I just run what's on the placard and leave it the [censored] alone, unless there is a very compelling reason not to (obvious wear, etc.)
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by Ws6
Most people do not possess the ability or facilities to test the actual contact patch under load. They go with "WeLl THis FElLs GuD!". Yes, you can fine-tune things with actual testing. I would say maybe 0.01% or less of the population fall into the category of willing, and able. I personally will leave a few % on the table to avoid all of the work...especially when a hot summer day can increase PSI by over 5 on the sunny side of the car...I just run what's on the placard and leave it the [censored] alone, unless there is a very compelling reason not to (obvious wear, etc.)
Exactly.
Most people do not possess the ability or facilities to test the actual contact patch under load. They go with "WeLl THis FElLs GuD!". Yes, you can fine-tune things with actual testing. I would say maybe 0.01% or less of the population fall into the category of willing, and able. I personally will leave a few % on the table to avoid all of the work...especially when a hot summer day can increase PSI by over 5 on the sunny side of the car...I just run what's on the placard and leave it the [censored] alone, unless there is a very compelling reason not to (obvious wear, etc.)
Exactly.
I do all tires +1 over the door sticker since they will likely be down a bit by the next time I get to them.
My body on frame vehicles I run at max sidewall
Unibody cars I run either at the European suggestion for high speed driving...or about 5 psi over US ratings.
Unibody cars I run either at the European suggestion for high speed driving...or about 5 psi over US ratings.
I buy used tires and trust the kids installing them with psi. I never check in between tire replacements because they never last long enough to lose psi due to weather fluctuations.
I also do lots of Smokey, stinking burnouts whenever possible, and if I can't take a corner at twice the posted speed limit, I consider the trip a failure, and I will often go back time and again to keep trying until I CAN take it 2x posted speed...or have to be towed out of the ditch.
I'm still alive, so obviously my methods and approach are perfectly fine and validated. Any statements to the contrary are obviously irrelevant since anecdotal evidence is the best kind, with personal anecdotal being the ultimate proof.
I also do lots of Smokey, stinking burnouts whenever possible, and if I can't take a corner at twice the posted speed limit, I consider the trip a failure, and I will often go back time and again to keep trying until I CAN take it 2x posted speed...or have to be towed out of the ditch.
I'm still alive, so obviously my methods and approach are perfectly fine and validated. Any statements to the contrary are obviously irrelevant since anecdotal evidence is the best kind, with personal anecdotal being the ultimate proof.
Originally Posted by DriveHard
My body on frame vehicles I run at max sidewall
Unibody cars I run either at the European suggestion for high speed driving...or about 5 psi over US ratings.
My Z06 had individual TPMS read-out. Tires would start at 32psi, and driving for 20 minutes or so would push them to about 36psi. That is sedate, highway. DRIVING the car would push them well into the 40's. One one of the cars I tracked at Spring Mountain, it was close to 50psi for the inside front tire, I recall.
Consider dynamic use and the effects.
My body on frame vehicles I run at max sidewall
Unibody cars I run either at the European suggestion for high speed driving...or about 5 psi over US ratings.
My Z06 had individual TPMS read-out. Tires would start at 32psi, and driving for 20 minutes or so would push them to about 36psi. That is sedate, highway. DRIVING the car would push them well into the 40's. One one of the cars I tracked at Spring Mountain, it was close to 50psi for the inside front tire, I recall.
Consider dynamic use and the effects.
Car calls for 36/36 below 160 km/hr. I run much wider tires/rims than stock, and run 33/33. Have found it is a good compromise between steering feel, grip, FE and wear. The lower the pressure, the larger the contact patch.
I run a little over what the sticker says so I don't have to air them up so often, and when they get to 30 psi I'll put air in them. My 2000 Mustang GT has Saleen wheels, so for a smooth ride I don't go higher than 32.
I use the vehicles tire label in the door jamb for my guideline(not gospel). If I don't like the way the vehicle is riding, handling or whatever, I'll alter those figures by only a couple of lbs +/- but, that's all. I typically like the door jamb requirement for the front but, 1-2 lbs less in the rear unless there are passengers/luggage/gear in the back.
If the vehicle rides too harsh over broken pavement on the everyday commute, I will remove that 1-2 lbs where needed for comfort everyday. But, I do alter the psi on long highway trips with(as mentioned) people/luggage. More air has never given me a better ride over the broken pavement and I don't like feeling every tar strip on the highway.
If the vehicle rides too harsh over broken pavement on the everyday commute, I will remove that 1-2 lbs where needed for comfort everyday. But, I do alter the psi on long highway trips with(as mentioned) people/luggage. More air has never given me a better ride over the broken pavement and I don't like feeling every tar strip on the highway.
Originally Posted by Char Baby
I use the vehicles tire label in the door jamb for my guideline(not gospel). If I don't like the way the vehicle is riding, handling or whatever, I'll alter those figures by only a couple of lbs +/- but, that's all. I typically like the door jamb requirement for the front but, 1-2 lbs less in the rear unless there are passengers/luggage/gear in the back.
If the vehicle rides too harsh over broken pavement on the everyday commute, I will remove that 1-2 lbs where needed for comfort everyday. But, I do alter the psi on long highway trips with(as mentioned) people/luggage. More air has never given me a better ride over the broken pavement and I don't like feeling every tar strip on the highway.
That's pretty much exactly what I do and for the same reasons.
I use the vehicles tire label in the door jamb for my guideline(not gospel). If I don't like the way the vehicle is riding, handling or whatever, I'll alter those figures by only a couple of lbs +/- but, that's all. I typically like the door jamb requirement for the front but, 1-2 lbs less in the rear unless there are passengers/luggage/gear in the back.
If the vehicle rides too harsh over broken pavement on the everyday commute, I will remove that 1-2 lbs where needed for comfort everyday. But, I do alter the psi on long highway trips with(as mentioned) people/luggage. More air has never given me a better ride over the broken pavement and I don't like feeling every tar strip on the highway.
That's pretty much exactly what I do and for the same reasons.
... What really complicates this, is that air pressure gauges typically are neither precise or accurate. The electronic type operate with internal pressure tranducers, based on strain gauges. Traditional dial types use calibrated springs. When either of those devices are stored in a hot (or cold) glovebox, their overall performance will fluctuate.
I have about 4-5 different pressure gauges and only 2 give generally the same reading under similar conditions. I had more of them laying around but, threw-out the ones that didn't give consistent readings or, were more than 4 PSI off from all the others. The ones that (I think) give good readings are the old-fashioned dial types made by Vondior. All the pencil types with the ejecting scale were junk. The "battery" powered ones seemed to be nothing more than a receptacle that held dead batteries.
… Anyhow, it adds a new perspective over this bickering about who puts how much air in their tires, and why.
I have about 4-5 different pressure gauges and only 2 give generally the same reading under similar conditions. I had more of them laying around but, threw-out the ones that didn't give consistent readings or, were more than 4 PSI off from all the others. The ones that (I think) give good readings are the old-fashioned dial types made by Vondior. All the pencil types with the ejecting scale were junk. The "battery" powered ones seemed to be nothing more than a receptacle that held dead batteries.
… Anyhow, it adds a new perspective over this bickering about who puts how much air in their tires, and why.
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