Serpentine Belt
- Thread starter klt1986
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They're all good! Go out there right now and put a tool on the tensioner and see if it feels springy and smooth or if there's roughness. IIRC on the 4.6 it's right up top and you can put a 3/8" square drive on it. There's your answer. Some aftermarket tensioners are plastic junk, so stick with OE if it works smoothly.
I'll side with eljefino regarding all you listed being good. I would scrutinize any "NAPA" belt because their offerings can vary widely.
I prefer Gates products when I can get them.
The last timing belt to come from my supplier was a Continental.
Is seemed top shelf too. Avoid the rest.
ONCE UPON A TIME there was confusion regarding a Saab's serpentine belt (short vs. long) and several people bought belts.
We were doing 2 of the same car at my place and a total of 5 belts were purchased.
Only the Gates was a name brand you could trust right out of the gate (pun intended).
The others were no-name brands from auto parts stores' stock and were flimsy garbage.
It was truly illuminating. Kira
I prefer Gates products when I can get them.
The last timing belt to come from my supplier was a Continental.
Is seemed top shelf too. Avoid the rest.
ONCE UPON A TIME there was confusion regarding a Saab's serpentine belt (short vs. long) and several people bought belts.
We were doing 2 of the same car at my place and a total of 5 belts were purchased.
Only the Gates was a name brand you could trust right out of the gate (pun intended).
The others were no-name brands from auto parts stores' stock and were flimsy garbage.
It was truly illuminating. Kira
I've had good success with Dayco, Gates & Good/Year Belts. Haven't tried NAPA but, I'm sure it'd be fine too!
I'm kinda new to these 'belt tensioners'.
I looked at mine and thought:
There's a bearing in there, how many times does that bearing turn with each turn of the belt ? ? ? Answer: Quite a lot.
So I changed mine at 92,000 miles.
My Rule for replacing parts-
1) Buy Equal or Greater Quality.
2) If the part I'm taking off (OEM) doesn't show any wear, save it.
Might come in handy in emergency.
Should you change yours ? ? ? Depends on mileage.
Do bearings feel smooth ? Making any noise ?
The belt your taking off, if it has any life left, keep it in your vehicle.
A few years ago, I took my truck to get rust proofing (oil spray) done.
The owner came in and said "your drive belt just broke".
How many people can say "I have one hanging behind the drivers seat, with breaker bar & socket".
Edit: That's a true story. No brag, just fact.
I looked at mine and thought:
There's a bearing in there, how many times does that bearing turn with each turn of the belt ? ? ? Answer: Quite a lot.
So I changed mine at 92,000 miles.
My Rule for replacing parts-
1) Buy Equal or Greater Quality.
2) If the part I'm taking off (OEM) doesn't show any wear, save it.
Might come in handy in emergency.
Should you change yours ? ? ? Depends on mileage.
Do bearings feel smooth ? Making any noise ?
The belt your taking off, if it has any life left, keep it in your vehicle.
A few years ago, I took my truck to get rust proofing (oil spray) done.
The owner came in and said "your drive belt just broke".
How many people can say "I have one hanging behind the drivers seat, with breaker bar & socket".
Edit: That's a true story. No brag, just fact.
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Those are all okay, add Bando and AC Delco to the list. The AC is probably made by Dayco but its sized slightly different, they fit very well.
Edit: Look at the idler (if one is used) also as well as the tensioner.
Edit: Look at the idler (if one is used) also as well as the tensioner.
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Just because the belt has cracks in it doesn't mean it needs to be replaced. Rule of thumb is three cracks in a three inch section of a rib means it should be replaced. You also mentioned replacing the tensioner. Are you hearing squeeling noises?
I have a cheapo one on my 4.6 right now (whatever the cheapest advance brand is, needed it that day for a road trip), works fine...Goodyear is supposed to be pretty [censored] good though.
really easy to change as mentioned above, all you need is a 3/8" drive
really easy to change as mentioned above, all you need is a 3/8" drive
napa's belts are gates.at least here they are.
The 4.6 panther crowd will recommend the Goodyear gator back.
I used a gator back to replace the factory belt on my town car and it fixed some damp start-up noise, that can be common on these engines. I would use it again on this motor.
I used a gator back to replace the factory belt on my town car and it fixed some damp start-up noise, that can be common on these engines. I would use it again on this motor.
Regarding the tensioner, I believe Dayco uses a diaphragm spring in their tensioners whereas the other brands as well as most OEM use coil springs. When I replaced my tensioner a couple years ago I read some reviews where people had strange noises and problems from the Dayco tensioner which disappeared when the tensioner was changed with a different brand tensioner. I've used both Gates and Goodyear brand tensioners without issues.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Just because the belt has cracks in it doesn't mean it needs to be replaced. Rule of thumb is three cracks in a three inch section of a rib means it should be replaced. You also mentioned replacing the tensioner. Are you hearing squeeling noises?
Not hearing any squealing noises. Just figured a 14 year old vehicle with 87,000 miles would need a new belt and maybe a tensioner. Belt does have a few small cracks and they are not hard to find. I figure changing a $30 belt in my garage is much easier than trying to do it on the side of the road and is pretty cheap insurance.
Just because the belt has cracks in it doesn't mean it needs to be replaced. Rule of thumb is three cracks in a three inch section of a rib means it should be replaced. You also mentioned replacing the tensioner. Are you hearing squeeling noises?
Not hearing any squealing noises. Just figured a 14 year old vehicle with 87,000 miles would need a new belt and maybe a tensioner. Belt does have a few small cracks and they are not hard to find. I figure changing a $30 belt in my garage is much easier than trying to do it on the side of the road and is pretty cheap insurance.
Yes...Probably a good idea to change the belt. I like Goodyear Gatorback. While the belts off... move the arm on the tensioner..if it moves easily...it should be good. Then try spinning the idler by hand...and if it spins freely and doesn't wobble or make grinding noises then it should be good also.
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