Timing Belt Replacement Focus 2001

Herz · Feb 6, 2011

I am replacing the timing belt on my 2001 focus zetec at 105,000 miles. I plan on also replacing tensioner, idler, serpentine belt, and possibly the waterpump. I want to use dayco products since gates has moved some production overseas. Anyone ever have any issues with dayco timing belts? Will also be using a fel-pro valvecover gasket.

I had a bad dayco serp belt once but I am ready to give another chance.

Any tips on this for this job will be appreciated, I have studied the procdedure and have ordered the tools used to set camshafts, and 1 piston to tdc.

97prizm · Feb 6, 2011

I've replace the timing belt on my car twice, and I can say from experience, follow the manual and pay close attention to variations of engines and years as the steps may be different. Definately definately get a Thick chiltons manual, or borow one for your car. My haines manual is helpful, but leaves out steps, they think are self-explanitory, but are not always self-explanitory. One big thing, tape or label all the nuts and bolts and what they go to, after a few hours or a day later they start to look similar. I accidentally mounted one of the pulleys backwards on my friends 2000 honda civic. It made a horrible screeching noise. Any further questions feel free to pm me.

justinf89 · Feb 6, 2011

I personally like gates products, but dayco is also fine. Be sure to take advantage of advance auto's great online codes. If you work it right, you can ALWAYS get 40% off. Good luck!

mechtech2 · Feb 7, 2011

This particular engine has a rather rigorous procedure, compared to many others.
But as with any, get your #1 TDC as close as you can. The pointer tool in the block to the crankshaft is good, but not the only way. Then the cams must be set to where they should be with the flat bar in them .
Put the belt on , set the tensioner, and lock it down.
You are smart to get new pulleys and tensioners.

tgferg67 · Feb 7, 2011

Here is a thread on the Focus fanatics message board.
"Replacing a timing belt without screwing up..How-to"
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198819&highlight=belt

If your timing belt is still on the car you can do th job without buying the alignment tools. Put 6 marks on the belt and sprockets and then transfer these marks to the new belt. The belt to sprocket relationship is then kept.

The Critic · Feb 7, 2011

I would check the factory service manual for the correct procedure. Sometimes some people suggest the "mark and pray" method as it "seems" to work, but it really doesn't-- TDIs come to mind.

Also, I wouldn't trust aftermarket parts for this type of job. Stay with Genuine Ford (or maybe Motorcraft) parts for this. Even if Dayco was the OE supplier, they often have two lines of products-- one for OE and one for aftermarket, and the two are not the same.

http://aa1car.com/library/2004/us70444.htm

edit: briefly read the above link, definitely sounds like someone is suggesting a "mark and pray" type method since it sounds like a component will move once the belt is off. You should definitely find a way to get the factory locking tools or have the job done by someone who uses the correct tools.

Herz · Feb 7, 2011

Thanks for all the replies. I have already ordered the pin and bar for the procedure.

http://massivespeedsystem.com/_massive_s...4/i-273565.aspx

Made in USA and not too expensive.

I checked the AZ dayco timing belt, made in Italy, chekced the gates one:tensioners and idler Canadian made, and belt US made. (No problem whatsoever with canadian products.) I will price the dealer belt. Most likely leaning on the Gates kit.

tgferg67 · Feb 8, 2011

I notice Subaru uses the "mark and pray" method - the belt is set to orientation marks nothing is locked. They even state to use white paint from belt to sprocket to keep orientation.

http://www.subaru.com/content/downloads/pdf/spt/STi_PERFORMANCE_TIMING_BELT.pdf

meep · Feb 8, 2011

i had a dayco stretch in 30,000 miles on a 2.2L subie, resulting in misfire code cyl 4 and rough idle. swapped in a new belt when the WP failed, and all the problems went away. dayco had stretched.

M

mechtech2 · Feb 8, 2011

"Mark and pray" can indeed work well - I've done it many times..
But on these engines [and any with variable valve timing], it's best to go by the book.

SteveSRT8 · Feb 9, 2011

Going by the book is the only way to get factory fresh levels of performance and longevity.

We use PTO drives mounted on the crank pulley which MUST be aligned with a dial indicator. It's difficult and time consuming, but absolutely needed.

Few items in a factory service procedure can be safely ignored!

bdcardinal · Feb 9, 2011

Might want to go OEM on this. We have had a few of these Foci and Escorts with the Zetec motor come in with brand new aftermarket timing gear, Gates included, that were junk from install, making horrible noises from the timing set. Replacing with OEM the noises went away.

stephen9666 · Feb 9, 2011

Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Might want to go OEM on this. We have had a few of these Foci and Escorts with the Zetec motor come in with brand new aftermarket timing gear, Gates included, that were junk from install, making horrible noises from the timing set. Replacing with OEM the noises went away.

I've only done one timing belt, but I agree with OEM. If you're going to do a job this big and time consuming, get the best parts you can.

Herz · Feb 12, 2011

Thanks again for all recomendations, I priced the ford belt and the dealer wanted 180 + tax without the idler and tensioner. Sorry but that is a rip off. I ended up getting the gates set at NAPA. US made belt, Canadian tensioner and Idler. I picked up a fel pro valve cover gasket, Dayco belt from AZ that is US made, and a tensioner from NAPA. (Napa belt was made in mexico.)

I have read about 4 different walkthroughs and have studied my Chiltons, I think I got the hang of this. Just waiting on my timing tools to get here.

Everyone including ford recomends using a new waterpump. I however usually get close to 200k on my WP's. The way I look at it is I can probably get anohter 100k off the OEM pump, or I can get another 20k off of it. Do you guys recommend replacing it while down there? A new (not reman,) pump from napa is around 50 bucks.

Thanks

mjoekingz28 · Feb 13, 2011

I cannot speak from experience, but I've read of WPs leaking and contaminating the belt.

Go for it and take your time!

stephen9666 · Feb 19, 2011

Originally Posted By: defektes
Thanks again for all recommendations, I priced the ford belt and the dealer wanted 180 + tax without the idler and tensioner. Sorry but that is a rip off.

Everyone including ford recomends using a new waterpump. I however usually get close to 200k on my WP's. The way I look at it is I can probably get anohter 100k off the OEM pump, or I can get another 20k off of it. Do you guys recommend replacing it while down there? A new (not reman,) pump from napa is around 50 bucks.

Thanks

That does sound like a ripoff price. Did you check online? I got my parts from an online source for VW parts. I paid just under $200 for an OE belt, OE tensioner, better-than-OE water pump, coolant and a few stretch bolts.

Herz · Feb 19, 2011

Nah, Im not a fan of ordering them online incase I get a defective products or such. I am not going to replace the WP since it is driven by the serpentine belt and not the timing belt. If it fails it will not harm the Tbelt.

Steve S · Feb 19, 2011

Remember right before you cover up the timing belt rotate the engine by hand 2 complete revolutions in the proper direction of rotation to check if all the timing marks line up. Use a repair manual.

Timing Belt Replacement Focus 2001

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