Sealing and protecting old wood window sill

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JHZR2

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My detached garage has two original wood windows. They are beautiful on the inside but on the outside years of exposure, coupled with the fact that they are on the garage and not on the house and in a pretty unobservable location, I suppose left them open to damage.

The windows themselves are fine although the sash cords are still rope and not chain. That's okay we don't really use the windows... My primary concern is the sill, stool and apron that make up the outer windowsill. It has always been painted and I do not think that the wood is particularly rotten. But it does not hold paint well, and new water-based paints seem to lift up after a couple years. Worse there are a few spots in the grain where it seems as if it has lifted long-ago under the paint.

I'm not keen on scraping and sanding down to bare wood because I'm sure that there is lead paint on these windows. I would like to have the ability to open them. What is spurring me on here is the fact that the window is going to be covered up by a shed and so I want to make sure that it is sealed and protected once and for all since access will be very difficult once the shed is installed. I would like the window to be able to be opened because it would be a primary access if I wanted to add utilities into the shed such as electricity for lights. Looking wonderful is not the most important thing because it will be fully covered by the shed. The shed will also provide substantial weather and sunlight protection for the window.

I just need to know what is the right process to protect the window and especially the sale so that I don't have to worry about it and it will not rot or becoming bad shape. I was actually thinking about cutting and aluminum For the outer windowsill that tucks underneath of the lower sash and goes all the way around and underneath of the window. I would affix it with a few small nails, and then caulk all the seams where it butts against the wood with a good long-term 50 year caulk.

But I'm not sure what the best recommendation is so any thoughts or suggestions would be very much appreciated.
 
first strip to bare wood, sand as needed, then

1. SEAL with a water soluble paintable water sealer, apply multiple coats.
2. seal all sides that you can reach, let it dry,
3. prime with latex
4. paint

read this in fine home building mag many years back.
 
I'm having a difficult time thinking of a solution that doesn't involve stripping the paint. I'm guessing that the reason you can't get new paint to stick has a lot to do with whatever it is that's currently on the wood.
 
I really don't think you are going to find a solution that doesn't include stripping the paint. When you do strip in make sure to wear a respirator and keep the area damp (not soaking) with a TSP and water solution. You don't want so much solution that there is runoff, but you want enough to capture any potential dusting.
 
Sorry to say, you are going to have to strip the paint.

Having grown up surrounded by Lead and Aspestos (I'm now 57)
I don't get too freaked out about such things.

I guess the Damage is done.

Just take reasonable precautions.
Chemical stripper bight be best in this application.
 
OK, may hire a pro then. I have issues of time, lead paint, and lack of desire that the dust even be on or near me (despite a respirator to keep it out of the mouth and lungs) because of the baby...

Yeah Im sure its layers of oil and then latex, though at the same time, the original wood siding on my parent's home still doesn't accept paint well even though it was stripped and sanded to bare wood. It always looks good, it just needs to be redone more than it used to...

Thanks!
 
chemical stripper as someone mentioned,

all you need to do is lay down a plastic below it and CAPTURE ALL the stripped paint and then bag it and take to the county disposal center.
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
Can you have it wrapped in aluminum?


[Re: JHZR2]
That would be my choice. If you are going to hire a contractor, you might consider having the sill and exterior trim replaced with PVC composite, basically manufactured lumber. Not that big of a job and it's permanent.

Wayne
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
On flips I just wrap the old sills in aluminum, cheap and fast.


Yeah, both of those are nice, especially since Ill not be looking at the window until the shed rots away.

But I do care for the long term, not just maximizing profit on a flip, so the correct protection and sealing approach is still important...
 
What's ever under a good aluminum wrapping should last as long as the aluminum does. Basically 'till you get sick of it.

I like the idea of the plastic lumber too. I did the exterior of a kitchen window with that and some composite quarter-round in my last home. Came out nice.
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
I wouldn't sheath it in aluminum. It would trap condensation. Another vote for chemical stripper to deal with the lead.


if done cheaply or not right, id agree. But aluminum cladding is a common way to protect wood windows.

My concern is how to seal it and apply it properly so that it doesnt hold condensation or do funny things. Like anything else, there is a right and wrong way to do this...
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: andyd
I wouldn't sheath it in aluminum. It would trap condensation. Another vote for chemical stripper to deal with the lead.


if done cheaply or not right, id agree. But aluminum cladding is a common way to protect wood windows.

My concern is how to seal it and apply it properly so that it doesnt hold condensation or do funny things. Like anything else, there is a right and wrong way to do this...


If there is a right way to clad with Aluminium, so the wood does not rot underneath, I have yet to see it in our climate.
Just consider the difficulty of sealing with a hot cold cycle!

Sure it looks OK, but I bet 3-4 years down the road, if you remove it, the wood would be a rotten as a Pear.

It might be Overkill, but if the wood really is causing problems getting the paint to stick, consider West System, two part epoxy http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

I have used this in the past for Punky widow sills, brush it on and use a heat gun to get it to penetrate the wood.

It will penetrate the wood like hot oil, then essentially turn the wood to Plastic.

You will still have to deal with the flaky paint first though.
 
Originally Posted By: stockrex
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
My detached garage has two original wood windows. They are beautiful on the inside but on the outside years of exposure, coupled with the fact that they are on the garage and not on the house and in a pretty unobservable location, I suppose left them open to damage.

The windows themselves are fine although the sash cords are still rope and not chain. That's okay we don't really use the windows... My primary concern is the sill, stool and apron that make up the outer windowsill. It has always been painted and I do not think that the wood is particularly rotten. But it does not hold paint well, and new water-based paints seem to lift up after a couple years. Worse there are a few spots in the grain where it seems as if it has lifted long-ago under the paint.

I'm not keen on scraping and sanding down to bare wood because I'm sure that there is lead paint on these windows. I would like to have the ability to open them. What is spurring me on here is the fact that the window is going to be covered up by a shed and so I want to make sure that it is sealed and protected once and for all since access will be very difficult once the shed is installed. I would like the window to be able to be opened because it would be a primary access if I wanted to add utilities into the shed such as electricity for lights. Looking wonderful is not the most important thing because it will be fully covered by the shed. The shed will also provide substantial weather and sunlight protection for the window.

I just need to know what is the right process to protect the window and especially the sale so that I don't have to worry about it and it will not rot or becoming bad shape. I was actually thinking about cutting and aluminum For the outer windowsill that tucks underneath of the lower sash and goes all the way around and underneath of the window. I would affix it with a few small nails, and then caulk all the seams where it butts against the wood with a good long-term 50 year caulk.

But I'm not sure what the best recommendation is so any thoughts or suggestions would be very much appreciated.


first strip to bare wood, sand as needed, then

1. SEAL with a water soluble paintable water sealer, apply multiple coats.
2. seal all sides that you can reach, let it dry,
3. prime with latex
4. paint

read this in fine home building mag many years back.



This is the correct answer
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2

if done cheaply or not right, id agree. But aluminum cladding is a common way to protect wood windows.



Have you ever seen the amount of moisture damage done to wood from a few years of aluminum cladding after it's been removed?

If you already have paint issues then moisture is getting into the wood-no amount of top coating is going to solve the problem because you're not stopping the moisture at its point of entry.

It's really just a little common sense and not something that anyone needs to hire a "pro" for. Just remove the wood, strip it down, clean it completely and let it dry. Once it's dry, coat the entire piece with a quality primer (all 6 sides), and then 2-3 top coats of a quality paint. Once the paint is dry reinstall the wood, making sure to caulk all of the joints.

Once the wood is sealed everywhere the paint won't pop off because there's no moisture migrating through the wood.
 
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: JHZR2

if done cheaply or not right, id agree. But aluminum cladding is a common way to protect wood windows.



Have you ever seen the amount of moisture damage done to wood from a few years of aluminum cladding after it's been removed?

If you already have paint issues then moisture is getting into the wood-no amount of top coating is going to solve the problem because you're not stopping the moisture at its point of entry.

It's really just a little common sense and not something that anyone needs to hire a "pro" for. Just remove the wood, strip it down, clean it completely and let it dry. Once it's dry, coat the entire piece with a quality primer (all 6 sides), and then 2-3 top coats of a quality paint. Once the paint is dry reinstall the wood, making sure to caulk all of the joints.

Once the wood is sealed everywhere the paint won't pop off because there's no moisture migrating through the wood.



This
 
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: JHZR2

if done cheaply or not right, id agree. But aluminum cladding is a common way to protect wood windows.



Have you ever seen the amount of moisture damage done to wood from a few years of aluminum cladding after it's been removed?

If you already have paint issues then moisture is getting into the wood-no amount of top coating is going to solve the problem because you're not stopping the moisture at its point of entry.

It's really just a little common sense and not something that anyone needs to hire a "pro" for. Just remove the wood, strip it down, clean it completely and let it dry. Once it's dry, coat the entire piece with a quality primer (all 6 sides), and then 2-3 top coats of a quality paint. Once the paint is dry reinstall the wood, making sure to caulk all of the joints.

Once the wood is sealed everywhere the paint won't pop off because there's no moisture migrating through the wood.



No, cant say that I have. My parents have a mountain home that they built andhad the wood windows aluminum cladded, and they are all fine.

The point of calling a pro isnt because of needing "common sense" to do the work, but rather not wanting myself or my wife to be anywhere near exposed to lead paint dust. I work with hazardous stuff all the time. But I dont care to work lead paint when I make more than enough money to hire someone with the tools and their own PPE to do it properly.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: JHZR2

if done cheaply or not right, id agree. But aluminum cladding is a common way to protect wood windows.



Have you ever seen the amount of moisture damage done to wood from a few years of aluminum cladding after it's been removed?

If you already have paint issues then moisture is getting into the wood-no amount of top coating is going to solve the problem because you're not stopping the moisture at its point of entry.

It's really just a little common sense and not something that anyone needs to hire a "pro" for. Just remove the wood, strip it down, clean it completely and let it dry. Once it's dry, coat the entire piece with a quality primer (all 6 sides), and then 2-3 top coats of a quality paint. Once the paint is dry reinstall the wood, making sure to caulk all of the joints.

Once the wood is sealed everywhere the paint won't pop off because there's no moisture migrating through the wood.



No, cant say that I have. My parents have a mountain home that they built andhad the wood windows aluminum cladded, and they are all fine.

The point of calling a pro isnt because of needing "common sense" to do the work, but rather not wanting myself or my wife to be anywhere near exposed to lead paint dust. I work with hazardous stuff all the time. But I dont care to work lead paint when I make more than enough money to hire someone with the tools and their own PPE to do it properly.


I would do the same,
but I have worked with lead since I was 4 years old, casting my own fishing weights, and now bullets

FYI: there is NO dust involved in using a chemical stripper, just patience and read the fine print and follow directions.

you probably ingest more "stuff" everyday on the highway driving behind an out of tune carb ford ;-)
 
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