Seafoam in my 17.5HP B&S

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Well, I put about 2oz of Seafoam in my 17.5HP B&S lawnmower engine. Engine is about 5 years old. I mowed with it for 30-45 minutes, shut it down, checked the oil. The oil was clean before I added it. After the mowing, it was still nearly clean.

How long should I leave it in the oil? I guess the engine is fairy spotless since I've ran synthetic oil in it for over 3 years. GC 0W-30 for a couple of years, and RTS 5W-40 for the last year or so. 2-3 OCI's a year.

Just wondering if I should expect it to even get dirty faster than normal?
 
I have the same motor in my MTD.

Tough engine, ran it for 12 years now. I also experiment with additives in my gas and oil!

I've ran Seafoam & MMO in the oil (& gas).

If it's not dirty inside, the oil won't get dirty.

Would go a couple more hours or to the end of your mowing season there, drain when warm and re-fill with oil.
 
Hmm, maybe you would know this.

When I go to crank my engine when cold, it makes a high pitched squeal, and is hard to turn over. It's coming from the cylinder area.

I know it's not the starter because if I turn the engine by hand, I hear the same noise. You know how you can hear the compression in an engine? Well, it's usually right before you hear the "pfffff" sound. It's like the air is being pushed through something making it whistle loud and high pitched.

Is something out of adjustment?
 
Interesting. I do not hear that on mine, but is hard to turn over until a few revs go around, then it cranks fast.

Do you have a crack or opening in a gasket?
 
I'm not sure about the gaskets.

And when I mean hard to turn over, I mean it usually will kill the battery and I have to jump it off to turn it over. Last time, though, I turned it by hand a few times, listening to the noise, and then it would crank with the starter. But it was still hard for it to turn over.

Would valves out of adjustment cause a problem like this?
 
I haven't heard of that; we may need pro's to check in on that one...
 
I read somewhere that someone said if the exhaust valve is out of adjustment, it can cause hard starting because of it not releasing the compression in time with the engine.

And I wondered if that sound I was hearing is the compression barely releasing right before I hear the normal compression sound.

I could just be thinking too much into it, but I do know I have a problem, just don't know what's causing it.
 
Originally Posted By: Jaymus
I'm not sure about the gaskets.

And when I mean hard to turn over, I mean it usually will kill the battery and I have to jump it off to turn it over. Last time, though, I turned it by hand a few times, listening to the noise, and then it would crank with the starter. But it was still hard for it to turn over.

Would valves out of adjustment cause a problem like this?



Yes, on these OHV engines valves out of adjustment will make it hard to crank. Lots of people replace batteries and starters before realizing the real cause.
 
Well, I guess I'll have to take it to have them adjusted. I never learned how to adjust valves.
 
Originally Posted By: Jaymus
Well, I guess I'll have to take it to have them adjusted. I never learned how to adjust valves.


It's real easy, all you need is a feeler gauge and a little time.
 
I've got time. Don't have a feeler gauge. I've seen my dad adjust them on SBC's all the time. He did it by ear. I never learned lol.
 
Originally Posted By: 97 GTP
Originally Posted By: Jaymus
I'm not sure about the gaskets.

And when I mean hard to turn over, I mean it usually will kill the battery and I have to jump it off to turn it over. Last time, though, I turned it by hand a few times, listening to the noise, and then it would crank with the starter. But it was still hard for it to turn over.

Would valves out of adjustment cause a problem like this?



Yes, on these OHV engines valves out of adjustment will make it hard to crank. Lots of people replace batteries and starters before realizing the real cause.


You are supposed to adjust the valves seasonly on these, but I wait for a problem. I posted a link with instructions on here about 6 months ago. Use a dowel rod thorough the spark plug hole to find top dead center, then it is just a wrench and feeler guage. I am away on business on my laptop, but will post again when I get home next week.
 
Originally Posted By: Jaymus
I've got time. Don't have a feeler gauge. I've seen my dad adjust them on SBC's all the time. He did it by ear. I never learned lol.


No valves by ear, it is feeler guage (gap), like on a spark plug. High and low idle by ear if no tach.
 
12 years on my 17.5 HP B&S mowing 3 acres for 3 hours at a time almost weekly and the valves never been touched!

Explain that?!
 
To adjust the valves, the engine must be on a compression stroke and at top dead center. All valves in the closed position and if valves are reasonably adjusted, there should be a little play between the tappet and top of valve stem. If there's no play (slack), the valve lash is too tight. Valves lash that is too tight will not allow valves to close properly when required to do so. Accordingly, compression will be lost due to air/fuel mixture escaping past the valves when they're supposed to be closed. This can lead to early engine failure (burned valves)if not corrected. As the old adage goes, "Tappy valves are happy valves." It's better to have them adjusted on the wider side of the specs.
 
Walt at garden Web e-mails the instructions out.

I have detailed instructions for adjusting your valves as well as trouble shooting at address below, put in proper format.
Walt Conner
wconner5 at verizon dot net

I will attempt to scan my printed version in and post here tonight
 
I went 10 on one but it was not OHV, with more recent models..... They are overhead valves with mechanical lifters. If they go out of adjustment, they can lead to hard starting wich will lead to coil and starter trouble. Which further complicates starting. It is a known weakspot in an otherwise durable engine. It is one of solutions in the troubleshooting flow chart. I offer it up as a solution to the hard start problem. It is relatively easy to check.

Diagnosing on the internet at best is an educated guess.
 
Here's Walt's instructions that I used in Aug '07.

Valve adjustment for 28 and 31 Series B&S OHV engines

The best thing to do is buy an Overhaul Manuel for this series of engine,
about $15.

Remove the valve cover. Remove the spark plug and turn the engine to TDC
(Top Dead Center). Now some people will say that there are 2 TDCs on 4
stroke engines. While the piston does come to top twice per combustion
cycle, the TDC referred to in all 4 stroke overhaul manuals, whether auto or
lawnmower, is when piston is at the top after compression stroke. Turn the
engine in the normal direction of rotation, watch the rocker arm action to
determine when the Intake Valve has just closed, use a screw driver in spark
plug hole to feel when piston is coming up and then at top. (A better idea
is a long pencil with eraser, put the eraser end in spark plug hole) Per B&S
instructions, continue turning engine until the piston has receded ¼" down
past TDC. Put a mark on screw driver (or pencil) ¼" above highest point
reached to tell when piston has receded ¼". You will need a torques head
screw driver bit for the locking screw on tappets.

The proper setting is Intake Valve - .003 - .005", Exhaust Valve - .005 -
.007". Use a flat feeler gauge between the Rocker Arm face and the Valve
Stem. These settings are critical as the Intake setting controls the operation of the Compression Release. I usually have to make 2 - 3 attempts before I am satisfied with the setting. When you think you have the proper clearance, take a hold of the Rocker Arm and move it by hand, side to side, etc, as much as you can and recheck the clearance
setting. The nut must be held while Locking Screw is torqued to 60 inch
lbs. I recheck the clearance setting again here.

I recommend removing and reversing the Intake Valve Push Rod when adjusting
the valves. If you remove the Aluminum Intake Valve Push Rod, you will see a
worn area down a little ways from the Rocker Arm end. This is from riding on
a fiber support rub block and the aluminum push rod will eventually bend or
break. Both ends are the same and reversing will prolong the life of the
push rod.

Note: IF you remove the push rod or any other rocker arm components, there
is a cap that sits on top of each valve stem, take care that you do not
dislodge and lose the cap. It is between this cap and the rocker arm that
you actually take your clearance reading but you will not notice there is a
cap normally. (Apparently, from the Overhaul Manual, ALL engines do not have
this cap)

Replace valve cover with new gasket, torque valve cover to 60 inch lbs.,
replace spark plug.


Now I have received much flack on this site for emphasizing the accuracy of
valve setting on B&S OHV engines with some saying to leave extra clearance
"just to be sure". B&S gives a range for a reason. As I said before, the
proper operation of the compression release is dependent on the proper
setting of the Intake valve clearance. The starter of a B&S OHV engine will
not turn the engine over unless the compression release is operating.
(Unless the engine is worn out, head gasket leaking, spark plug out or some
other malfunction) I have seen many people start out by buying a new
battery, then a new starter or starter solenoid, possibly new cables or
switch when all they needed to do was adjust the valves.


As I said in the beginning, the best thing to do is buy an Overhaul Manuel
for this series of engine, if you plan to have it for any period of time,
then you will be able to see for yourself what the proper thing is to do.

Walt Conner



Torque Head Bolts

Since I do not have a way to send you a picture, I will describe the
sequence. With the cylinder head in a position where there are two holes on
your left and an open, blank, space on your right in the vertical surfaces
(you might want to make a sketch of this) - I will give the sequence going
in a clockwise direction. The open blank space I refer to is in the pushrod
gallery area.

No 1 is in the center of the side closest to you.

No. 1, 3, 6, 8, 5, 2, 4, 7.

Torque to 220 inch lbs. Tighten first round to 75 inch lbs next step to 150
inch lbs next to 200 inch lbs, then final step to 220 inch lbs. and recheck.
Tighten all bolts in sequence to whatever figure you are using.
 
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