Screw extraction nightmare and solution

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I noticed the license plate screws on our trusty 2001 Accord were rusty and picked up some stainless replacements. They are number 3 Phillips and my 1/4" electric impact zipped one out fine and hammered away on the other. Eventually the head broke off to my surprise since I didn't think that impact had the power to do that.

I commenced drilling not sure if I'd use an easy out or if I'd have to drill it completely out. Since the threaded hole wasn't blind, I hoped it would crack loose and go out the back while drilling. Sometimes you get very lucky.

The remaining bolt was fairly hard and difficult to drill. I stepped up the drill size and used a carbide drill and the tip snapped off in the hole. Pretty much a worse case is having something harder than a drill stuck in the bolt you are drilling. I decided to use a small carbide burr to eat it out, but didn't want to mess up an expensive burr trying to eat up carbide.

I found some small pointed Dremel Christmas tree stones and went to work on the center of the bolt with it in my drill since I couldn't find my Dremel tool. It was probably good I didn't find the Dremel since sometimes using one in a tight hole causes crazy vibration and burr or stone breakage. Maybe it wouldn't have done that on the slowest speed.

Eventually the little stone ate away the broken carbide drill tip, enabling me to resume with a drill which cracked loose the bolt and it screwed out the back. But the takeaway is what you can do with the little pointed stone during bolt removal.

When drilling out bolts it is very difficult to get the drill centered, with the small pointed Dremel stone in a drill, I was able to relocate the hole I started to center it. Start a hole with a drill, then massage it to center with the stone, then finish drilling.
 
This seems to be a common problem with Honda's, anyone with one I advise to swap the rear license pate bolts out with SS and some never seize.
I did one for a guy that really buggered the hole up drilling, by the time he was finished there was not much left to tap into, he went at it with a 1/2: drill bit. I used a Rivet nut and 1/4-20 plastic bolts on that one.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
Old license plate screws ARE the pinnacle of unknown metallurgical magic.

Swap to SS.
A drop or two of penetrant ahead of time works wonders. Kira


I didn't bother with penetrant since I didn't think there was any was for it get around the head and plate into the threads. Maybe I could have gotten an inspection mirror and found the protruded threads on the back and attempted to spray them with it. If the plate was getting replaced anyway, tearing off would leave a path for the penetrant between the bolt head and threaded bush.
 
You buy a $25K vehicle and the dealer uses the cheapest bolts/screws possible that are rusting before you make your first payment.

I just bought an Irwin set of left handed drill bits and screw extractors. Have not tried them.
 
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I had this happen on 2000 VW. I let the new owner deal with it.

Some are a sheet metal screw in nylon. That might rust and look ugly, but should not rust frozen.

Best idea is to replace with SS.
 
Don't a lot of them use the threaded clips that the bolt threads into? Those are easy when the bolt snaps off, just pry the clip off and get a new one along with a new screw.
 
Honda uses a metric thread, welded square nut inside the panel or tailgate. The dealers use the cheapest screws then send it down the road, good luck trying to get them out down the road a few years.
 
GM uses these. Push into the square window and it locks in place.

395-017-007.JPG
 
I know a guy that used some of those push through drywall anchors. I wouldnt recommend that though. Lol.
 
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