School me on travel trailers!

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I'm thinking of buying a new or used travel trailer. However, I know very little about them. I've towed a car on a trailer while moving once, but that's it.

My tow vehicle is a GMC Canyon Duramax 4x4 CCLB. 100% stock. Max tow rating is 7600 lbs. This would be a bumper pull unit with a weight distributing/anti sway setup.

Thinking 5000 lb dry weight would be the max for this truck. 23-27' length with double axles and good ground clearance is desirable.

Can't afford an airstream, so lets not discuss those.

*What trailer manufacturers are good and which ones are bad?

*What hitch should I get?

*Any advice is welcome as I know very little about travel trailers.
 
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Glamping, one of my favorite things.
Shop used at first, this "hobby" grows on you, and you'll find that your first pick may not be your last, once you find what you like, and where you want to go.
There are only 2 hitches worth considering IMO. Equal-I-Zer, and Hensley Arrow. Plenty of info on both with a quick search, but both create a hard connection between the trailer and vehicle, and stop sway.
I've had a Coachman, 3 Forest River units, and a Jayco. All of my Forest River products were good, the Jayco has been the worst construction and reliability so far, spending a full 9 months in service during the first 2 years, burning up the warranty, and camping time. Jayco, as a company, couldn't care less.
You'll find a lot of cheap trailers out there. They are not value, they are just cheap, don't be fooled.
 
I've looked into travel trailers somewhat because I live on acreage, have the space and quite frankly the money plus vacation time to enjoy one.
But I don't like the high fees to park them at most campgrounds.

I would much rather have two axles, but single axle units are inexpensive if you don't need something large.
New travel trailers are cheap. Reliability isn't a huge concern for me. When trailers get 20 years old, they usually look dated anyhow.

https://rv.campingworld.com/rvdetails/ne...-10k-LOH1439025
 
New or used? Water is the enemy of both. I'd read up on roofs and how they are resealed. Where will you store this travel trailer when not in use? Also tires tend to be a sore spot, short life (like plan on replacing every few years regardless of how much use it gets).

I'd look and see if you can find reviews (on other boards) from people who have your vehicle and who have towed. Odds are half will be "it struggled on hills so I replaced with a 3/4 diesel and now I'm happy" and the other half will be "it pulled my house just fine".

IIRC in CA you're limited to 55mph max towing speed, so you have that in your favor. But do you plan to tow out of state?

What is your GCWR? Usually max tow rating is with you and about nothing else inside the truck. As you add stuff inside the truck (wife, kids, luggage) the amount you can tow goes down.

At this level you'll need a brake controller, don't forget to add that into your plans.
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
I've looked into travel trailers somewhat because I live on acreage, have the space and quite frankly the money plus vacation time to enjoy one.
But I don't like the high fees to park them at most campgrounds.

I would much rather have two axles, but single axle units are inexpensive if you don't need something large.
New travel trailers are cheap. Reliability isn't a huge concern for me. When trailers get 20 years old, they usually look dated anyhow.

https://rv.campingworld.com/rvdetails/ne...-10k-LOH1439025


5700 lbs dry weight is too heavy. Thanks but that's not gonna work.

I've read cheap trailers can have lots of issues, especially with the slides. Generally prefer quality even if it costs more as I don't like to deal with repairs or any nonsense.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
New or used? Water is the enemy of both. I'd read up on roofs and how they are resealed. Where will you store this travel trailer when not in use? Also tires tend to be a sore spot, short life (like plan on replacing every few years regardless of how much use it gets).

I'd look and see if you can find reviews (on other boards) from people who have your vehicle and who have towed. Odds are half will be "it struggled on hills so I replaced with a 3/4 diesel and now I'm happy" and the other half will be "it pulled my house just fine".

IIRC in CA you're limited to 55mph max towing speed, so you have that in your favor. But do you plan to tow out of state?

What is your GCWR? Usually max tow rating is with you and about nothing else inside the truck. As you add stuff inside the truck (wife, kids, luggage) the amount you can tow goes down.

At this level you'll need a brake controller, don't forget to add that into your plans.


GCWR is 12,700 Lbs

A 5000 lb trailer loaded with water and stuff if probably 6000 lbs. That leaves another 1,600 lbs for me, gf and our stuff. No kids.

Trailer will be stored outside with a cover when not in use.

The Little Duramax does OK with towing according to the forums. It comes with an integrated brake controller and exhaust brake as standard equipment so that is taken care of.
 
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Originally Posted By: CleverUserName
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
I've looked into travel trailers somewhat because I live on acreage, have the space and quite frankly the money plus vacation time to enjoy one.
But I don't like the high fees to park them at most campgrounds.

I would much rather have two axles, but single axle units are inexpensive if you don't need something large.
New travel trailers are cheap. Reliability isn't a huge concern for me. When trailers get 20 years old, they usually look dated anyhow.

https://rv.campingworld.com/rvdetails/ne...-10k-LOH1439025


5700 lbs dry weight is too heavy. Thanks but that's not gonna work.

I've read cheap trailers can have lots of issues, especially with the slides. Generally prefer quality even if it costs more as I don't like to deal with repairs or any nonsense.


I'd walk through some lots before long. See what you think. Window shopping is good.

I hear you on the slides and quality. The one's I've been in, the slides do open them up nicely. But they add weight and cost. So, what are your plans? Glamping and livin' like at home? Or something just hardsided and out of the weather, while you go to national parks and elsewhere? Just how nice does it have to be? I'd let that weigh in on decisions.

Craigslist might have some if you want to shop used and cheap(er).
 
Originally Posted By: CleverUserName
The Little Duramax does OK with towing according to the forums. It comes with an integrated brake controller and exhaust brake as standard equipment so that is taken care of.



Ah, ringing a bell now, Duramax = diesel in the Canyon. Forgot they had that diesel option. Well you've got that in your favor!
 
a 4000lb one will turn into 5000lb Fast.

While that truck might be able to pull a 7500lb dump trailer to the scrapyard 20 miles.. it wouldnt pull all day on the highway very good..

I'd be looking around the 3500-4000lb range.

Also with those the aerodynamics is the killer .. so plan on keeping it under 65mph.

The height and width is very important. if you plan on towing at faster speeds.
 
Originally Posted By: beanoil

There are only 2 hitches worth considering IMO. Equal-I-Zer, and Hensley Arrow. Plenty of info on both with a quick search, but both create a hard connection between the trailer and vehicle, and stop sway.


In addition to those check oit the Andersen No-Sway Weight Distribution Hitch, it's what I recommend.
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv

But I don't like the high fees to park them at most campgrounds.


Federal Pass

There are discount passes out there if you qualify. Our favorite Corp of Engineers campground is situated on a beautiful lake, paved, clean, and maintained and monitored. 9.00 a night with the pass.
 
Originally Posted By: SavagePatch
Originally Posted By: beanoil

There are only 2 hitches worth considering IMO. Equal-I-Zer, and Hensley Arrow. Plenty of info on both with a quick search, but both create a hard connection between the trailer and vehicle, and stop sway.


In addition to those check oit the Andersen No-Sway Weight Distribution Hitch, it's what I recommend.




UGH. No chains if you want no sway.
The Equal-I-Zer is by far the best 500. I've even spent on anything camping.
 
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Figure out what type of camping you like to do and what kind of site you like, and that will decide how big a trailer you want. At least in Ontario provincial parks, IMO the best sites with privacy, or a view, or waterfront, limits you to something ~20' or less.
I think the next factor is what kind of bed/mattress you need. That can limit how small you can go.
We could use my parents 28' trailer anytime we wanted to, but the PITA factor of limited site selection, gas, navigating it around, isn't worth the comfort, for us anyways.
 
I can't offer much wisdom about trailer brands or hitches, except that my research before buying our 31ft. Fleetwood park model (used - yeah it's a FEMA trailer) pointed to Airstream being the only one that'll hold up well to a lot of road miles. And having done some repairs on ours from water leaks, I can see how a conventional TT wouldn't age well when towed extensively. But, I didn't buy an Airstream either so that's just a FWIW.

5K sounds like a good number given your truck's size and rating. A good weight distributing hitch should make that much weight pretty comfortable, and a bit more shouldn't bring it to its knees outside of really tough terrain. In contrast to open trailers, though, be prepared for a lot of wind resistance which will make it seem 5x heavier than it is. From the few hundred miles I've towed mine behind my C3500 so far, a camper shell is going to be almost required to get air up over the trailer. YMMV.
 
Originally Posted By: beanoil
Originally Posted By: SavagePatch
Originally Posted By: beanoil

There are only 2 hitches worth considering IMO. Equal-I-Zer, and Hensley Arrow. Plenty of info on both with a quick search, but both create a hard connection between the trailer and vehicle, and stop sway.


In addition to those check oit the Andersen No-Sway Weight Distribution Hitch, it's what I recommend.




UGH. No chains if you want no sway.
The Equal-I-Zer is by far the best 500. I've even spent on anything camping.


Sorry Bean, but it seems like you made a judgement by looking at the picture without understanding the mechanics or engineering behind it. The Andersen No-Sway WDH is just that, no sway.
 
Originally Posted By: SavagePatch
Sorry Bean, but it seems like you made a judgement by looking at the picture without understanding the mechanics or engineering behind it. The Andersen No-Sway WDH is just that, no sway.


Friends had one and tried dialing it in for 2.5 years and gave up and got an Equalizer at my recommendation and they say it tows much better.
 
I'm on my second travel trailer. My first was a 2008 Fleetwood Utah tent trailer, and my current a 2010 Keystone Gougar 322 QBS fifth wheel.

Here are some things that we found when trailer shopping both times.

Used could represent better value, as they have already taken a big depreciation hit. It seems after this big initial hit in depreciation, the value diminishes at quite a slow rate afterwards. This is especially the case if you have a minimally used unit. Our first we really lucked out, the previous owner used it only for a total of 6 nights on 4 trips the previous year to our purchase, when his wife told him they need something bigger so his mother in law could camp with them. Second trailer wasn't quite as unused, but it spent most of its life at a seasonal lot close to where it called home, only moving twice a year.

Versus new, you get a lot of "extras" thrown in by the previous owner as part of the deal. Wheel chocks, propane tanks, and on some units, spare tires and batteries are extra charges. And you benefit, if the previous owner was diligent, corrections made to the typically shoddy workmanship across the industry, plus add on gadgets (we have a solar panel, inverter and dual batteries on our current unit). But, it could very easily be the previous owner was not diligent, and they are getting rid of their headache that's now falling apart. An inspection is critical before purchase.

If you go new, you get the benefit of a warranty. But you may find it is in to the dealer a lot to correct build issues. My sister in law bought new, and her unit spent as much time at the dealer as it did camping in the first two years. Compared to our used units, we had no major issues requiring a shop, only things like replacing/tightening loose or missing screws on trim type items. Not to say all are like that, as I'm sure there are many out there that have no issues. But with careful used shopping, the previous owner would have dealt with all of the issues that manifest in the first couple of years.

In terms of what type of trailer and layout, know what your tow capacity is, and keep a healthy margin. Also look at many units, whether they be new or used, to get a feel for what's out there in terms of the models and floor plans that would suit your needs.

As far as makes and models go, this can be all over the place and can vary even just by the model year. My father in law bought a used Jayco fifth wheel, and it had no issues until recently, when replaced a bent axle, likely a result of bad roads anyway. But my sister in law's Jayco bumper pull, bought brand new was a regular in the service bays. Our Fleetwood tent trailer, we ended up with a "good year" for roofs, but they went through a lot of different roofs over the years, with some being notoriously bad. And though our Keystone is trouble free, we've heard of many more recent year models being plagued with problems. Google will also show you that some brands seem to crop up more than others for problems, but you will definitely find they all have some issues. Also, the overall design of some units may mean they could be more prone, or less prone to trailer sway. Google can help you there too. For a bumper pull, look into a good weight distribution hitch with sway control. And with any type, if you don't have an integrated brake controller, pick a quality unit. Tekonsha Prodigy and P3 are recognized as good models, but there are also other good ones out there.

Not many will do this when shopping, but on our second go around, tire upgradability was something I looked at, preferring units that had 16" wheels, versus 15", as that opened up many more replacement tire options. Read about the ST China bombs, and you will quickly see why tires were a concern for me. My own research, including help from CapriRacer in the tire sub forum here at BITOG, was my guidance to choosing suitable LT replacement tires. (As a side note, there is a whole can of worms you can open with ST versus LT tires, with many in the ST camp offering a lot of admonishing, but can't really offer any concrete reasons why ST is better than LT in their view).
 
Originally Posted By: beanoil

The Equal-I-Zer is by far the best 500. I've even spent on anything camping.


Equalizer is the only hitch i will run.
 
I've had a popup for 12 years, bought it used. I've learned that new isn't always better. There doesn't seem to be a lot of "engineering" involved in RVs as much as slapping things together from various manufacturers, and not always done the right way. Friends and I have had our share of reworking things on RVs, even on brand new ones. If you're handy with plumbing and electrical stuff, and you're mechanically inclined things usually aren't too hard to fix. Used might even be better, they may have had the kinks worked out already and they depreciate in value quickly.

Whatever you go with, check EVERYTHING before your first trip out. Run all the plumbing, check all the equipment, and set it all up in your driveway before your first trip out. Case in point, the awning latches on my popup didn't even fit the awning supports, I had to grind the supports with a Dremel to make them fit - after I got home when I discovered I couldn't use the awning the first time I tried to set it up on a camping trip. I've had to redo some wiring because some yahoo jammed lots of wires under one wire nut, added some 90 degree elbow fittings to the gas lines because the hoses made sharp bends and eventually collapsed, and replaced the filler hose for the water tank because it leaked while filling (poor design).


They can quickly get heavy, and the dry weight is not a very reliable figure. That's with no water, no propane, no gear, and may not even include any optional equipment installed on that unit.

Have fun though! Camping is still enjoyable and if you take good care of your travel trailer you can get a lot of use out of it.
 
One thing to consider, 6000 pounds of dump trailer is different than 6000 pounds of a travel trailer. Are you sure that the travel trailer won't blow around your Colorado?
 
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