School me on travel trailers!

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Originally Posted By: SavagePatch
Originally Posted By: beanoil
Originally Posted By: SavagePatch
Originally Posted By: beanoil

There are only 2 hitches worth considering IMO. Equal-I-Zer, and Hensley Arrow. Plenty of info on both with a quick search, but both create a hard connection between the trailer and vehicle, and stop sway.


In addition to those check oit the Andersen No-Sway Weight Distribution Hitch, it's what I recommend.




UGH. No chains if you want no sway.
The Equal-I-Zer is by far the best 500. I've even spent on anything camping.


Sorry Bean, but it seems like you made a judgement by looking at the picture without understanding the mechanics or engineering behind it. The Andersen No-Sway WDH is just that, no sway.


Oh I understand those mechanics very well, thank you. I stand by my statement. No chains, no sway.
 
Thanks for the responses guys.

I’ve never towed anything this big or heavy before. It’ll be a learning experience.

I’d like to get some formal education, training or a “class” on towing. Does anyone, like camping world or ? offer something like that?

Didn’t think about the aero factor and not having a camper shell. I thought I’d be safe at 5K dry weight, maybe 4K is safer. I also don’t want to destroy my truck towing at max capacity, but there are so many more trailers with 5k DW.

Planned on shopping used. Maybe 3-5 years old looks like 30% less than new.

I like the Lance Travel Trailers. However they are expensive and there really aren’t many used ones available on CL that I saw. Lance appears to make a nice product.

I also like the Keystone outback 210 and 240 models. Recently saw a van towing one in my neighborhood. I guess the 210 would be my only option as the 240 is 5k DW.
 
As as been mentioned, that is a pretty light truck to pulling around a travel trailer with. Imo, a half ton is the bare minimum unless it is a pop up trailer.

I have trailered for years and years with my folks when I was much younger and we seen our share of situations where it just makes you shake your head.

In ideal situations, flat, no wind, etc, you would likely make out OK but we all know, or ought to know, those perfect conditions are not the norm.

Personally, with all the travelling I did as a kid, I am glad to say I am now stationary and only drive to our trailer instead of pulling it, but that's just me.

Take your time looking, there is a lot of junk out there and those trailers can't take the abuse of travelling like some others can. As they say, pay now or pay later.

Good luck with your search.

 
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Originally Posted By: CleverUserName
I’ve never towed anything this big or heavy before. It’ll be a learning experience.

I’d like to get some formal education, training or a “class” on towing. Does anyone, like camping world or ? offer something like that?


I was in that boat in 2015. Never towed anything and jumped right in towing a 35' long 11' high, 10k travel trailer. The drive home from the dealer was an experience but I learned quick and now at almost 10000 miles on it, I can put it nearly anywhere and back in with little aid (mainly to watch my blind side).

Watch lots of Youtube and read a lot was what worked for me. Practice as well. Remember it drives nothing like an unloaded vehicle. Acceleration is measured in minutes (and I've got plenty of HP and Torque), stops are measured in football fields and you will feel the pull when people pass.

When towing big & heavy the hitch and setup is crucial. Luckilly our dealer got it dialed in near perfect when they set ours up.

I'm not aware of any towing classes but maybe a local dealer would know better.

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Planned on shopping used. Maybe 3-5 years old looks like 30% less than new.


Must be different out in CA. When we were looking in 15, 1-5 year old was practically the same as new. My guess is people took the 10-15 year loan with low payments and didn't like camping after a year or 2. They owed way too much on them and needed to recoup costs.
 
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Oh I understand those mechanics very well, thank you. I stand by my statement. No chains, no sway.


But this HAS chains and no sway. So you're statement seems inaccurate. Maybe we're misunderstanding eachother. Are you saying that the Equilizer style WDH is the only way to acheive no sway or that it's one way to achieve no sway and it's the method that you prefer?
 
Originally Posted By: itguy08
Originally Posted By: CleverUserName
I’ve never towed anything this big or heavy before. It’ll be a learning experience.

I’d like to get some formal education, training or a “class” on towing. Does anyone, like camping world or ? offer something like that?


I was in that boat in 2015. Never towed anything and jumped right in towing a 35' long 11' high, 10k travel trailer. The drive home from the dealer was an experience but I learned quick and now at almost 10000 miles on it, I can put it nearly anywhere and back in with little aid (mainly to watch my blind side).

Watch lots of Youtube and read a lot was what worked for me. Practice as well. Remember it drives nothing like an unloaded vehicle. Acceleration is measured in minutes (and I've got plenty of HP and Torque), stops are measured in football fields and you will feel the pull when people pass.

When towing big & heavy the hitch and setup is crucial. Luckilly our dealer got it dialed in near perfect when they set ours up.

I'm not aware of any towing classes but maybe a local dealer would know better.

Quote:
Planned on shopping used. Maybe 3-5 years old looks like 30% less than new.


Must be different out in CA. When we were looking in 15, 1-5 year old was practically the same as new. My guess is people took the 10-15 year loan with low payments and didn't like camping after a year or 2. They owed way too much on them and needed to recoup costs.


Good advice. I also don't recall anyone talking about electric brakes, which the OP will also require especially if he sticks with the Canyon?
This is a good vid to watch, which hopefully convinces you to choose another tow vehicle if you plan on sticking to your original thoughts on trailer size.
Many more vids exist as has been said. Make to sure to watch a ton of them.
 
I have towed our 23 ft toyhauler with my F150 for 10 years. The equlizer hitch is the only one I could recommend and is the one I have. I bought it new and it has been rock solid.

Off-grid camping vs hook-ups camping are totally different worlds. If you plan to off-grid you're going to need to factor in a lot more weight than you think. Our Yamaha 3000ISEB generator weighs a lot, love it, has 1200 trouble free hours on it, but it is heavy, then I carry 20 gallons of gas with it and an extra 30 gallons of water. Weight adds up quick if you're going off grid camping. If you're going off grid for a week, figure an extra 1K pounds you wouldn't take to a hook up site.

Tires, tires, tires. If it comes with Chinese maypops change those out immediately to either Maxis or Goodyear load range E tires. I have Maxxis because Goodyear doesn't make a 15 inch wheel size tire. 10 years of towing, never a single issue with the Maxxis E load range tires.

Ours stays in a garage, tow behinds don't last long outside covered or not.
 
Here is something to consider. Buy a cargo trailer, insulate it and outfit it to suite your needs. Cargo trailers are built to last! Spend some time on youtube, there are tons of these builds on there from simple to amazing.
 
I towed a 10K# bumper pull round trip cross country a few months back. A couple of things I know.

Always have a good spare tire ready and good tools to change a tire. Not the cheap garb you get with the trailer. Hydraulic bottle Jack and large breaker bar with lug-nut socket is a good start. the scissor jacks just suck.

All the hitches except one use friction devices for anti sway ...the Arrow uses interesting physics setup to stop sway. Anti sway is needed depending on the size trailer and how much surface area the wind can hit it or when a semi truck swooshes past you at 85mph .

Having your weight dist hitch set little loose is better than too tight. Too tight moves too much weight forward and under decelleration or braking the rear wheels can unload and jacknife the rig.

take your time and enjoy the ability to pull over to a rest area and take a nap :)
 
Originally Posted By: Kawiguy454
I towed a 10K# bumper pull round trip cross country a few months back. A couple of things I know.

Always have a good spare tire ready and good tools to change a tire. Not the cheap garb you get with the trailer. Hydraulic bottle Jack and large breaker bar with lug-nut socket is a good start. the scissor jacks just suck.

All the hitches except one use friction devices for anti sway ...the Arrow uses interesting physics setup to stop sway. Anti sway is needed depending on the size trailer and how much surface area the wind can hit it or when a semi truck swooshes past you at 85mph .

Having your weight dist hitch set little loose is better than too tight. Too tight moves too much weight forward and under decelleration or braking the rear wheels can unload and jacknife the rig.

take your time and enjoy the ability to pull over to a rest area and take a nap :)



The front of the vehicle should be no higher than 1 1/2" after the weight is put on the Equalizer hitch. The Equalizer hitch distributes the weight of the tongue among the two axles of the tow vehicle and those axles of the travel trailer.

This is what dictates how the hitch is to be adjusted.
 
Lots of vids/info available to properly set up those up as well.

My Father exclusively used Reese before he purchased the 5th Wheel. Not saying it is the best but they have been around for a long time.
 
They're all garbage. Unless you buy an Airstream, that is the sad reality. The others all-no exceptions-have build quality that would have had the builders of Trabants and Volgas hanging their heads in shame. Expect to have a list of things that fall apart after every trip for several years.

Expect under-spec'd wiring, marginal axles, poor brakes that have a 50/50 chance of pulling to one side, maypop tires in weird sizes and load ratings (185/80R13D, anyone?), a roof that needs to be resealed annually to avoid leaks (it may leak anyway), and axles that will just, just barely carry the weight with zero safety margin. (And one or both might not actually be straight.)
 
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
They're all garbage. Unless you buy an Airstream, that is the sad reality. The others all-no exceptions-have build quality that would have had the builders of Trabants and Volgas hanging their heads in shame. Expect to have a list of things that fall apart after every trip for several years.

Expect under-spec'd wiring, marginal axles, poor brakes that have a 50/50 chance of pulling to one side, maypop tires in weird sizes and load ratings (185/80R13D, anyone?), a roof that needs to be resealed annually to avoid leaks (it may leak anyway), and axles that will just, just barely carry the weight with zero safety margin. (And one or both might not actually be straight.)



I've had only had 2 issues with my travel trailer , the refrigerator door hinge broke and i jb welded it back 5 years ago. I just replaced the fridge incase it gives way. I have a small leak in my roof top ac.

I do reseal the roof ever 4 years or so, takes about and hour and a tube of self leveling roof sealer( dicor brand) I've had no roof leaks or slideout issues( baby powder on the seals every year or so.

Mine is a 2005 Jayco jayfeather 23b hybrid.


I think if you stay with a major old brands you are good. Brands like Jayco, Starcraft, Coachman, and of course Airstream. You may pay a bit more for these brands, but i think the quality is better. Airstream prices are just ridiculous.

Care matters as well. i keep mine under a shed and with a coat of spray wax on it. i do have the 185 13 tires on it but its not and issue with maxxis brand tires, plus the trailer is low so my dogs can easily get in and out.

Neglect them, let snow, limbs leaves sit on them and yes the roof will give issues, i have had a lot of use, and minimal repair. 13- 14 year old unit. I've not had to take the axles apart. Dexter e-z lube greased every year and before long trips. Electric brakes work flawless.
 
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Consider a nice tent trailer, like a HW296 model. Why? They are only 7' wide and shorter profile. A lot easier to tow. The duramax 2.8 will pull anything you want but the narrow truck will be harder to see around the trailer. It will also be harder to control sway than a full size. Plus you can really brag about your towing MPG in a duramax 2.8 tent trailer setup!
 
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
They're all garbage. Unless you buy an Airstream, that is the sad reality. The others all-no exceptions-have build quality that would have had the builders of Trabants and Volgas hanging their heads in shame. Expect to have a list of things that fall apart after every trip for several years.

Expect under-spec'd wiring, marginal axles, poor brakes that have a 50/50 chance of pulling to one side, maypop tires in weird sizes and load ratings (185/80R13D, anyone?), a roof that needs to be resealed annually to avoid leaks (it may leak anyway), and axles that will just, just barely carry the weight with zero safety margin. (And one or both might not actually be straight.)




They have to meet RIVA standards-the wires while not "stout" are not under spec'ed. The major cause of tire failures are under inflation and going faster than the 65mph most are rated for.

I have towed a $15,000.00 (bought new travel trailer) coast to coast and had absolutely zero issues. NONE.
 
Wow lots of good info. Thanks guys.

I'm not going to get rid of the Canyon as my tow vehicle. It is a very practical vehicle for what it is, and I think you're underestimating it's abilities. It's the biggest mid-size truck made, and it has a long wheelbase. It's almost as long as my friends 2017 CC tundra, so it should be pretty stable towing a travel trailer. Most of the posts I read on another forum by people who use the Colorado/Canyon to tow a TT are in the 4-5000 DW range and report 15-20 mpg towing with this vehicle under good conditions. That is about 2x the MPGs I would get towing with a gas Silverado 1500.

However, I think it would be wise to lower my TT size to 20-23'. This should out me at around 4000-4500 lb DW. Rather be safe than sorry as this whole thing is new to me. Also add some extra GCWR buffer for cargo or solar panels etc...

Didn't know about the equalizer hitch. It seems to be the most common one recommended here. I saw lots of people were using the blue ox on the forums.

Originally Posted By: irv


Good advice. I also don't recall anyone talking about electric brakes, which the OP will also require especially if he sticks with the Canyon?
This is a good vid to watch, which hopefully convinces you to choose another tow vehicle if you plan on sticking to your original thoughts on trailer size.
Many more vids exist as has been said. Make to sure to watch a ton of them.



As I mentioned, my Canyon has the tow package and it includes an integrated brake controller. So that means I would be using electric brakes. Electric brakes are standard on a TT, right?

Originally Posted By: itguy08

Must be different out in CA. When we were looking in 15, 1-5 year old was practically the same as new. My guess is people took the 10-15 year loan with low payments and didn't like camping after a year or 2. They owed way too much on them and needed to recoup costs.


I've seen some listings on CL that where 1-3 years old and almost the same price as new 2018 model with end of year pricing. I imagine they probably have had the listing up for awhile and aren't willing to take a loss on it. Or a flipper who bought it cheap and is trying to make a buck...
 
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Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
They're all garbage. Unless you buy an Airstream, that is the sad reality. The others all-no exceptions-have build quality that would have had the builders of Trabants and Volgas hanging their heads in shame. Expect to have a list of things that fall apart after every trip for several years.

Expect under-spec'd wiring, marginal axles, poor brakes that have a 50/50 chance of pulling to one side, maypop tires in weird sizes and load ratings (185/80R13D, anyone?), a roof that needs to be resealed annually to avoid leaks (it may leak anyway), and axles that will just, just barely carry the weight with zero safety margin. (And one or both might not actually be straight.)


They have to meet RIVA standards-the wires while not "stout" are not under spec'ed. The major cause of tire failures are under inflation and going faster than the 65mph most are rated for.

I have towed a $15,000.00 (bought new travel trailer) coast to coast and had absolutely zero issues. NONE.


You think that RVIA sticker actually means something. I believed in the tooth fairy once, too. Really want an eye-opener, tear down a travel trailer. You'll cringe. My favorite thing I found was taillight wiring: the builder had simply whacked a hole in the aluminum with a dull chisel for the wiring. No grommet, no attempt to trim the edges, just wires run through a ragged hole. It took about a year for the wires to short.

The major cause for tire failures is the Chinese garbage that is sold as ST tires, and most trailers running right at the weight limits of the tires.
 
Some guy posted this on a forum. I though he was joking so he sent me a picture.

It’s a 36’ 7600 lb trailer being towed by a Canyon. He says it is very stable and there are no problems towing it using an AS/WD hitch.

 
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
They're all garbage. Unless you buy an Airstream, that is the sad reality. The others all-no exceptions-have build quality that would have had the builders of Trabants and Volgas hanging their heads in shame. Expect to have a list of things that fall apart after every trip for several years.

Expect under-spec'd wiring, marginal axles, poor brakes that have a 50/50 chance of pulling to one side, maypop tires in weird sizes and load ratings (185/80R13D, anyone?), a roof that needs to be resealed annually to avoid leaks (it may leak anyway), and axles that will just, just barely carry the weight with zero safety margin. (And one or both might not actually be straight.)


They have to meet RIVA standards-the wires while not "stout" are not under spec'ed. The major cause of tire failures are under inflation and going faster than the 65mph most are rated for.

I have towed a $15,000.00 (bought new travel trailer) coast to coast and had absolutely zero issues. NONE.


You think that RVIA sticker actually means something. I believed in the tooth fairy once, too. Really want an eye-opener, tear down a travel trailer. You'll cringe. My favorite thing I found was taillight wiring: the builder had simply whacked a hole in the aluminum with a dull chisel for the wiring. No grommet, no attempt to trim the edges, just wires run through a ragged hole. It took about a year for the wires to short.

The major cause for tire failures is the Chinese garbage that is sold as ST tires, and most trailers running right at the weight limits of the tires.



It must depend on the manufacturer. As I stated -I bought a travel trailer NEW and literally have towed it all over the country. We have not had a single issue. It's 6 years old now. Also-I run ST tires (all Chinese made)-never exceed 65mph and don't overload, and don't hop curbs. Consequently-I have not had a single blow out-not even a puncture. It's on it's 3rd set of tires-due to sidewall cracking-that happens if you don't cover them, especially with the hot summer sun-at altitude here in the Salt Lake area.

SO-we can disagree on the major cause of tire issues on trailers.
 
Most of them are alarmingly flimsy like said, but to make them weigh as less as possible, that's one of the prices you pay. My in laws bought a new Jayco Jayflight SLX earlier this year. I think it's around 21-23ft and 5000ish pounds. They bought it hook, line and sinker from a local RV dealer, with just about every "extended warranty" option available. They were around the $18K mark all in I believe. Everything looks great from a distance, but it is an ultra cheaply built SOB. Worst thing is, it's been sitting unused, exactly where I left it in their driveway since May/June. Tree junk falling on it, etc.. Point it, unless it's some super special rig you need. Buy used. People either get into it and out of it relatively quick or like said, if they like it, they upgrade quickly.

The RV sales dept convinced MY FIL that a late model Nissan Frontier 4.0L would be fine for towing this rig too, given the Frontier has a max tow recommendation of ~6200lbs. It's a got a Teconsha e-brake controller and a Reese WDH. This pic doesn't really do it justice. The trailer looks way bigger in relation to the truck in person. It pulled it dry/empty the 20 mile ride home just fine, where it's sat ever since. LOL

u2JEGIz.jpg
 
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