Hopefully it wasn't just the timing belt.
Sad story - check your oil
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Originally Posted By: mva
Here is a photo under the valve cover a few years ago:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2847997/Re:_Front_Valve_Cover_Off_of_2#Post2847997
Photo under valve cover
We have a large hill in this area that we go up and down daily, so the engine could have been starved for oil going up the hill with low oil level. This may have caused the initial damage.
Doubt it was the oil level. If it was still visible on the dipstick, it wasn't low enough to cause starvation. It sounds like it may have spun a rod bearing. The pic of the engine had it looking pretty varnished. It was quite possible that on a cold start with the filter bypassing that a chunk of that crud broke free and led to some rod bearing damage, then, when your daughter went up the hill, the already damaged bearing contacted the crank, spun and voila!
Here is a photo under the valve cover a few years ago:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2847997/Re:_Front_Valve_Cover_Off_of_2#Post2847997
Photo under valve cover
We have a large hill in this area that we go up and down daily, so the engine could have been starved for oil going up the hill with low oil level. This may have caused the initial damage.
Doubt it was the oil level. If it was still visible on the dipstick, it wasn't low enough to cause starvation. It sounds like it may have spun a rod bearing. The pic of the engine had it looking pretty varnished. It was quite possible that on a cold start with the filter bypassing that a chunk of that crud broke free and led to some rod bearing damage, then, when your daughter went up the hill, the already damaged bearing contacted the crank, spun and voila!
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
Toyota engines that fail with 80,000 miles are very, very rare.
2007 Toyota Sienna, V6, 36500 miles top end failed in Salinas Kansas.
This is one of the known issues with that motor:
http://www.siennachat.com/forum/81-probl...es-3-5l-v6.html
and the other relates to failure of the variable valve timing system. Took out the exhaust cams, timing gear, the VVT system on the end of the cams, required the entire engine to be pulled, maybe a valve or two replaced? I forget all the parts list now, but it was substantial. There was a TSB out on the problem by the time my cratered in 2010, it perfectly described the problem. Starts with a clicking/knocking when cold, lit up every warning light on the dashboard when it failed on the interstate.
All manufacturers make booboo's. Including Toyota.
Toyota engines that fail with 80,000 miles are very, very rare.
2007 Toyota Sienna, V6, 36500 miles top end failed in Salinas Kansas.
This is one of the known issues with that motor:
http://www.siennachat.com/forum/81-probl...es-3-5l-v6.html
and the other relates to failure of the variable valve timing system. Took out the exhaust cams, timing gear, the VVT system on the end of the cams, required the entire engine to be pulled, maybe a valve or two replaced? I forget all the parts list now, but it was substantial. There was a TSB out on the problem by the time my cratered in 2010, it perfectly described the problem. Starts with a clicking/knocking when cold, lit up every warning light on the dashboard when it failed on the interstate.
All manufacturers make booboo's. Including Toyota.
Sounds like the engine was ran low on oil and spun a bearing just a hair. The new oil might've delayed the inevitable, but the damage was done.
I recently spun a bearing on my 01' Saturn by neglecting the oil level as well. I topped it off with a jug of Valvoline high mileage that was on sale. The knocking actually went away, even when I revved on the engine, it was smooth and crisp again. I took the car around the block to row through all the gears, and by the time I got back home it was knocking again.
I recently spun a bearing on my 01' Saturn by neglecting the oil level as well. I topped it off with a jug of Valvoline high mileage that was on sale. The knocking actually went away, even when I revved on the engine, it was smooth and crisp again. I took the car around the block to row through all the gears, and by the time I got back home it was knocking again.
Originally Posted By: Fordtrucktexan
Sounds like the engine was ran low on oil and spun a bearing just a hair. The new oil might've delayed the inevitable, but the damage was done.
I am actually surprised that car manufactures do not equip all cars with oil level sensor (not just pressure sensor). My Nissan Qashqai has one and every time you turn on the ignition it tells you if level is OK or not and shows 4 gradation of level.
If the problem is indeed related to spun bearing, I assume this is easy to fix as on most of the cars you do not need to remove the engine and can do this in-place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nidUNUjzzPg
Sounds like the engine was ran low on oil and spun a bearing just a hair. The new oil might've delayed the inevitable, but the damage was done.
I am actually surprised that car manufactures do not equip all cars with oil level sensor (not just pressure sensor). My Nissan Qashqai has one and every time you turn on the ignition it tells you if level is OK or not and shows 4 gradation of level.
If the problem is indeed related to spun bearing, I assume this is easy to fix as on most of the cars you do not need to remove the engine and can do this in-place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nidUNUjzzPg
Originally Posted By: volodymyr
Originally Posted By: Fordtrucktexan
Sounds like the engine was ran low on oil and spun a bearing just a hair. The new oil might've delayed the inevitable, but the damage was done.
I am actually surprised that car manufactures do not equip all cars with oil level sensor (not just pressure sensor). My Nissan Qashqai has one and every time you turn on the ignition it tells you if level is OK or not and shows 4 gradation of level.
If the problem is indeed related to spun bearing, I assume this is easy to fix as on most of the cars you do not need to remove the engine and can do this in-place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nidUNUjzzPg
Fixing it in place seldom works. Most of the time the crankshaft is also damaged and needs to be removed for machining - hence removing and rebuilding the entire engine.
Originally Posted By: Fordtrucktexan
Sounds like the engine was ran low on oil and spun a bearing just a hair. The new oil might've delayed the inevitable, but the damage was done.
I am actually surprised that car manufactures do not equip all cars with oil level sensor (not just pressure sensor). My Nissan Qashqai has one and every time you turn on the ignition it tells you if level is OK or not and shows 4 gradation of level.
If the problem is indeed related to spun bearing, I assume this is easy to fix as on most of the cars you do not need to remove the engine and can do this in-place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nidUNUjzzPg
Fixing it in place seldom works. Most of the time the crankshaft is also damaged and needs to be removed for machining - hence removing and rebuilding the entire engine.
If the vehicle started back up, rule out the timing belt. Is anyone sure it was a rod knock or bottom end noise? Maybe something up top is the issue; cam bearing?
Either way, the OP seems to have got good years of use out of the vehicle and decided it was not worth looking deeper into it.
Either way, the OP seems to have got good years of use out of the vehicle and decided it was not worth looking deeper into it.
It could even be something external.....An accessory, air conditioning compressor, power steering pump......Or any of the belt tensioner bearings. Who knows? It may have been worth digging a bit deeper, though.
the toyota 3.0 v6 is a sludger and if it was not maintained very well they build up until the oil cant flow we did hundreds of the 3.0 engines in both toyotas and lexus vehicles over the years starting around 1990 through now.
The 1MZFE is a reliable and smooth engine if maintained, it will run forever.
I pretty much agree with that, as long as the maintenance is performed as needed. Mine is over 300K now and doesn't burn any more oil than usual and seems to still be performing well.
Originally Posted By: hypervish
The 1MZFE is a reliable and smooth engine if maintained, it will run forever.
Originally Posted By: hypervish
The 1MZFE is a reliable and smooth engine if maintained, it will run forever.
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I really think you going that far between an oil change, plus running it low...along with the history of those engines being a sludging engine, lead to it's failure. I wouldn't blame it on this one event, that thing was probably going to grenade anyway.
Originally Posted By: rrounds
My daughter came over(in '09) and told me her Honda('00 Civic) was making some noise so I went out and started the car up and as soon as it fired up I shut it off. Checked the oil, none, nada, nothing on the dip stick. Put in two qt's. and it just touched the bottom of the dip stick. It took 3 1/2 qt's. to get it up to the full mark, that dam car still runs good today.
Been there and had the same outcome.
I ran my accord to 1.3 quarts at about 240,000 miles. (It went from burning no oil to a quart every 1000ish after a spark plug dropped a piece of insulator into a cylinder and scored it.) One night driving WOT the oil light came on. I pulled into a gas station and put 3 quarts and it still wasn't at full. Drove home, drained it, the oil had a grey tint and the shavings in the pan were abundant. I refilled it with Pennzoil HM and a Pureone filter. Drove it about 100 miles and changed it again. 140,000+ miles later, still running.
My daughter came over(in '09) and told me her Honda('00 Civic) was making some noise so I went out and started the car up and as soon as it fired up I shut it off. Checked the oil, none, nada, nothing on the dip stick. Put in two qt's. and it just touched the bottom of the dip stick. It took 3 1/2 qt's. to get it up to the full mark, that dam car still runs good today.
Been there and had the same outcome.
I ran my accord to 1.3 quarts at about 240,000 miles. (It went from burning no oil to a quart every 1000ish after a spark plug dropped a piece of insulator into a cylinder and scored it.) One night driving WOT the oil light came on. I pulled into a gas station and put 3 quarts and it still wasn't at full. Drove home, drained it, the oil had a grey tint and the shavings in the pan were abundant. I refilled it with Pennzoil HM and a Pureone filter. Drove it about 100 miles and changed it again. 140,000+ miles later, still running.
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Originally Posted By: Shark
Originally Posted By: rrounds
My daughter came over(in '09) and told me her Honda('00 Civic) was making some noise so I went out and started the car up and as soon as it fired up I shut it off. Checked the oil, none, nada, nothing on the dip stick. Put in two qt's. and it just touched the bottom of the dip stick. It took 3 1/2 qt's. to get it up to the full mark, that dam car still runs good today.
Been there and had the same outcome.
I ran my accord to 1.3 quarts at about 240,000 miles. (It went from burning no oil to a quart every 1000ish after a spark plug dropped a piece of insulator into a cylinder and scored it.) One night driving WOT the oil light came on. I pulled into a gas station and put 3 quarts and it still wasn't at full. Drove home, drained it, the oil had a grey tint and the shavings in the pan were abundant. I refilled it with Pennzoil HM and a Pureone filter. Drove it about 100 miles and changed it again. 140,000+ miles later, still running.
Haha! Incredible. I have an Accord with 285,000 miles on it and it's just starting to use oil. Good to know it should be able to handle much more abuse.
Originally Posted By: rrounds
My daughter came over(in '09) and told me her Honda('00 Civic) was making some noise so I went out and started the car up and as soon as it fired up I shut it off. Checked the oil, none, nada, nothing on the dip stick. Put in two qt's. and it just touched the bottom of the dip stick. It took 3 1/2 qt's. to get it up to the full mark, that dam car still runs good today.
Been there and had the same outcome.
I ran my accord to 1.3 quarts at about 240,000 miles. (It went from burning no oil to a quart every 1000ish after a spark plug dropped a piece of insulator into a cylinder and scored it.) One night driving WOT the oil light came on. I pulled into a gas station and put 3 quarts and it still wasn't at full. Drove home, drained it, the oil had a grey tint and the shavings in the pan were abundant. I refilled it with Pennzoil HM and a Pureone filter. Drove it about 100 miles and changed it again. 140,000+ miles later, still running.
Haha! Incredible. I have an Accord with 285,000 miles on it and it's just starting to use oil. Good to know it should be able to handle much more abuse.
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