RUST Preventers

[Craig in Canada]

Originally Posted By: rcy

Krown is not 'wool grease' - it's not a thickish type fluid.


There are multiple fluids from Krown. Some of them most certainly are thickish. They stay liquid and are thick enough that it took until May and June sun to become thick enough to migrate to my spare tire well and out the drains on my doors and hatchback. They are not all like WD-40.

 

[rcy]

From the Krown website..

"Krown is the highest performing petroleum based rust preventative on the market today. A non evaporating liquid product with lubricant properties, Krown spreads along metal and painted surfaces, displaces moisture, creeps into crevices, and lays down a thin, self-repairing rust inhibiting coating. The rust inhibiting performance of Krown is the best of any like-product. The lubricity of Krown is known to provide additional service life to moving parts normally inaccessible to routine maintenance, such as cables, doors locks, and window roll-up mechanisms. Krown has consistently outperformed competitive products in laboratory tests."

Petroleum based and liquid being the key words. So I don't think it's lanoline based (wool oil).

 

[rcy]

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Originally Posted By: rcy

Krown is not 'wool grease' - it's not a thickish type fluid.


There are multiple fluids from Krown. Some of them most certainly are thickish. They stay liquid and are thick enough that it took until May and June sun to become thick enough to migrate to my spare tire well and out the drains on my doors and hatchback. They are not all like WD-40.



Right Krown makes multiple fluids. But the one they use to rust proof cars is not thick at all. I just had my car sprayed and it dripped all over the road for two days. This is not thick, otherwise it wouldn't drip. Their T40 product in the aerosol can is basically the same stuff they spray when rustproofing a car. I have a can of it, and it sprays out in liquid form, just like wd40.

 

[Aquaticentipede]

Here's my attempt at rust-proofing my ride (2010 Jeep Wrangler 2-door). I went through and wirebrushed all already rusted parts (mainly steering knuckle & driveshafts) which didn't come painted from factory, followed by applying Rustoleum to every accessible rust prone areas (mainly bolts & nuts), and finished with Boeshield T-9 to the entire undercarriage and engine bay. The Jeep's body is zinc plated so not a concern at this point. Probably have about 8 hours of labor put in total.

Funny thing was that I started applying the T-9 to see how well it went on. Once I started, I couldn't stop (very addicting). Went ahead and did the whole thing.

Flash revealed I missed a spot.

On here I applied heavy coats directly on the engine/transmission, and light coats everywhere else (plastics/electricals). Removed drive belt, applies T-9, degreased belt contact surfaces, then reinstalled belt.

 

[Aquaticentipede]

I forgot to mention the exhaust pipes & muffler were also painted with 1200°F enamel.

 

[demarpaint]

Nice job on that jeep! I heard the T-9 didn't last very long though. How often do you plan on recoating? I used the Amsoil HD Metal Protectant on mine, and touch up at each tire rotation. I'm thinking of using Fluid Film over it, since it might be a little more user friendly. I just have to be sure it can go over the Amsoil product.

 

[bigmike]

Beside the fact that nobody in Florida (that I know of) rustproofs anything, nor have I even heard of the term for automobiles prior to my visiting BITOG... this still has been a very interesting read.

Does all this rustproofing help with noises, squeaks, rattles, etc? I ask this because I periodically have to grease some spots on my suspension that squeak if I don't. Mostly shock mounts and things of that nature. Not to be confused with actual grease fittings.

If I walked into an auto parts store and asked about rust proofing, they'd say to spray paint it or use WD-40. I have typically used some WD-40 on my leaf springs, etc. Otherwise, there are limited resources (and products) here to purchase.

I suppose I would need something that is aerosol and dries non-sticky for my application. I'd consider Amsoil MP Heavy Duty Metal Protector, but are there similar products you guys would recommend?

I noticed GM put some sort of rubberized/wax coating on the frame. All my jack points tend to rust unless I quickly coat them over. The stuff isn't durable at all and tends to flake or smear when touched. Should I keep coating it with rubberized coating?

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted By: Aquaticentipede
Here's my attempt at rust-proofing my ride (2010 Jeep Wrangler 2-door). I went through and wirebrushed all already rusted parts (mainly steering knuckle & driveshafts) which didn't come painted from factory, followed by applying Rustoleum to every accessible rust prone areas (mainly bolts & nuts), and finished with Boeshield T-9 to the entire undercarriage and engine bay. The Jeep's body is zinc plated so not a concern at this point. Probably have about 8 hours of labor put in total.

Funny thing was that I started applying the T-9 to see how well it went on. Once I started, I couldn't stop (very addicting). Went ahead and did the whole thing.

On here I applied heavy coats directly on the engine/transmission, and light coats everywhere else (plastics/electricals). Removed drive belt, applies T-9, degreased belt contact surfaces, then reinstalled belt.

Report back in seven years and let us know how it held up to salt.

 

[VNTS]

Nice job on the jeep, smart getting everything painted.


What is Boeshield T9??

I would of used Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator and top coated with Chasis black epxoy paint. Then hit it with their Heavy Duty Anti Rust.

What did you use for the interior panels, ie doors, crevices etc
I like Eureka Fluid Film for that.

 

[Aquaticentipede]

Regarding the T-9 application, I didn't want anything too drastic and without dripping. Here in Colorado we use magnesium chloride as de-icer, which is far less corrosive than salt. That, and snow tends to melt in a day or two in the lower elevations (Denver/Aurora). Cars tend to last forever here for it's very dry. If this stuff makes it through July of next year, I'll be happy.

I figured the paint will offer the most protection obviously, and the T-9 will act as sort of a wax coating to keep the crud off the paint & engine.

 

[FXjohn]

does anyone know what Rust Check is, or the differences between it and Krown?

 

[Craig in Canada]

I've never used a Rust Check (not Chex) full vehicle application (I always used Krown) but I've used a number of Rust Check products off the shelf (in particular the green "thick" and red "thin"). It seems like a lot of them simply aren't effective. They make a mess and goop everything up, and it still seems to rust. It's just gooey, dirty, and rusting.

It was likely better than nothing at the time but there didn't seem to be any magic there. Perhaps others have had better luck.

If I had the choice, I would go with Krown.

 

[frankm]

Something interesting that I read in the Krown literature a few years ago was that most rust damage on vehicles is caused by condensation (ie. cars not garaged at night; heavy dew getting inside body panels) rather than from salt, as most people think.
FWIW.

 

[eljefino]

Interesting. I feel bad for my car in certain weather conditions where the cold concrete floor of the garage never seems to dry out. Am always bringing new water into the garage, in form of those "salt boogers" that form behind the fenders. They drop off, melt, and make the garage a muggy place.

If I left the car outside, at least a fresh breeze would blow by the undercarriage.

 

[Craig in Canada]

Originally Posted By: frankm
Something interesting that I read in the Krown literature a few years ago was that most rust damage on vehicles is caused by condensation (ie. cars not garaged at night; heavy dew getting inside body panels) rather than from salt, as most people think.
FWIW.


I don't think this would greatly affect cars in areas that don't already have some rust acceleration (sea breezes, road salt). I don't think you're going to see much, if any, rust on a modern north Texas car, condensation or not. Not all cars are built the same either - not all are double galvanized with sealed seams.

In areas WITH salt, this kind of thing is very hard on cars. There are times of year where the car never gets dry when salt is involved. Humidity, condensation, spray etc... Nasty stuff.

This is why garages, particularly heated garages, can be far harder on a car than just parking it outside in the cold. Keep the temp down and slow the rust. When we get into "colder snaps" here of -15C daily highs or lower then finally things start to dry out again because residual salt in the snowbanks doesn't keep things constantly melting at those temperatures.

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted By: frankm
Something interesting that I read in the Krown literature a few years ago was that most rust damage on vehicles is caused by condensation (ie. cars not garaged at night; heavy dew getting inside body panels) rather than from salt, as most people think.

That's baloney. I have cars in my possession that see no salt, along with cars that do see salt. All cars see condensation. The ones that don't see salt (including my classic car) have mere traces of corrosion. The ones that see salt duty are horribly rusted.

 

[FXjohn]

it is salt that does the damage.

 

[FXjohn]

Originally Posted By: Kestas
Originally Posted By: Aquaticentipede
Here's my attempt at rust-proofing my ride (2010 Jeep Wrangler 2-door). I went through and wirebrushed all already rusted parts (mainly steering knuckle & driveshafts) which didn't come painted from factory, followed by applying Rustoleum to every accessible rust prone areas (mainly bolts & nuts), and finished with Boeshield T-9 to the entire undercarriage and engine bay. The Jeep's body is zinc plated so not a concern at this point. Probably have about 8 hours of labor put in total.

Funny thing was that I started applying the T-9 to see how well it went on. Once I started, I couldn't stop (very addicting). Went ahead and did the whole thing.

On here I applied heavy coats directly on the engine/transmission, and light coats everywhere else (plastics/electricals). Removed drive belt, applies T-9, degreased belt contact surfaces, then reinstalled belt.

Report back in seven years and let us know how it held up to salt.


he'll have to re coat every year obviously.

 

[Warstud]

Originally Posted By: frankm
Something interesting that I read in the Krown literature a few years ago was that most rust damage on vehicles is caused by condensation (ie. cars not garaged at night; heavy dew getting inside body panels) rather than from salt, as most people think.
FWIW.


I believe that is true...all of the rust on my vehicle is from the inside. The inner panels are bare metal and have no protection from condensation.

 

[FXjohn]

Originally Posted By: Warstud
Originally Posted By: frankm
Something interesting that I read in the Krown literature a few years ago was that most rust damage on vehicles is caused by condensation (ie. cars not garaged at night; heavy dew getting inside body panels) rather than from salt, as most people think.
FWIW.


I believe that is true...all of the rust on my vehicle is from the inside. The inner panels are bare metal and have no protection from condensation.


dew is bad. but it isn't anywhere near as bad as salt.