JHZR2
Staff member
Well, things are coming along.
I could buy galvanized 26GA from HD. Looking at what would need to be cut to fresh to weld, I decided against cutting out that much floorboard, and using a rivet job instead.
Ive also bought the so-called simpson strong tie connection straps, which come at different angles and designs. They are 20 Ga and heavier.
Ive dremeled and ground rust in all directions to where I find shiny metal (per section II). Then, Ive taken Eastwood PRE paint prep, cleaned everything, and coated everything that had remaining surface rust with Eastwood Rust Converter. This penetrates and neutralizes the rust.
I cannot paint over all the converted surfaces until 48 hours - the cure time for the converter. SO Ive gone to shapng the metal.
Because of features in the floorboard and the vertical metal where the floor meets the side of the car, I decided to go with multiple pieces of sheetmetal.
The rust is at the point where the rocker meets the floorboard. So, there is an open space in the rocker, which I need to enclose, then attach to the vertical inner part of the rocker, and the horizontal part of the floorboard.
Ive used the galvanized to enclose the rust holes in the "vertical part", which will form the rocker. I was worried to form a liece that went all the way to the floorboard, as it would create a spot where water in the rocker could seep to a gap or to the floorboard. Instead, I only replaced the rusty metal on the vertical surface. Ultimately Ill take POR-15 epoxy patch and seat the galvanized sheetmetal into that, which will bond it to the lower surface, to enclose the rocker area completely. Between that and fiberous asphalt inside the rocker, this piece should be well-protected.
I then took the simpson strong-tie galvanized straps and formed them to be the true support between the good metal on the inner rocker and the good metal of the floorboard.
I used a few that are 18 Ga galvanized, and two in the main "hole" area which are 10 Ga or heavier. They were pre-drilled, so I am able to form them to the shape of the angle for the floorboard/rocker connection, and use the holes in them to be the guides for the holes I drill through the metal in the car.
A picture is attached:
The rust converter is curing and transforming/sealing the rust. Ill next prime and enclose everything with Eastwood rust encapsulator to seal it all up.
Ive drilled all the holes for the rivets, and after everything is painted and dry, then Ill coat with tar, other rust-preventative coatings, epoxy what needs to be epoxied in place, and then rivet everything tight.
Once all riveted, I plan to repaint the whole assembly from the top, after applying brushable seam sealer.
I also plan to dip my rivets that will go into the rocker or to the weather first in eastwood rust encapsulator (which is a good primer for steel), then coat them in eastwood HD anti-rust, which is a self-healing waxy coating similar to Amsoil HD MP.
Ill post more pics when Im able...
Any thoughts/comments???
Thanks!
Then, I took
I could buy galvanized 26GA from HD. Looking at what would need to be cut to fresh to weld, I decided against cutting out that much floorboard, and using a rivet job instead.
Ive also bought the so-called simpson strong tie connection straps, which come at different angles and designs. They are 20 Ga and heavier.
Ive dremeled and ground rust in all directions to where I find shiny metal (per section II). Then, Ive taken Eastwood PRE paint prep, cleaned everything, and coated everything that had remaining surface rust with Eastwood Rust Converter. This penetrates and neutralizes the rust.
I cannot paint over all the converted surfaces until 48 hours - the cure time for the converter. SO Ive gone to shapng the metal.
Because of features in the floorboard and the vertical metal where the floor meets the side of the car, I decided to go with multiple pieces of sheetmetal.
The rust is at the point where the rocker meets the floorboard. So, there is an open space in the rocker, which I need to enclose, then attach to the vertical inner part of the rocker, and the horizontal part of the floorboard.
Ive used the galvanized to enclose the rust holes in the "vertical part", which will form the rocker. I was worried to form a liece that went all the way to the floorboard, as it would create a spot where water in the rocker could seep to a gap or to the floorboard. Instead, I only replaced the rusty metal on the vertical surface. Ultimately Ill take POR-15 epoxy patch and seat the galvanized sheetmetal into that, which will bond it to the lower surface, to enclose the rocker area completely. Between that and fiberous asphalt inside the rocker, this piece should be well-protected.
I then took the simpson strong-tie galvanized straps and formed them to be the true support between the good metal on the inner rocker and the good metal of the floorboard.
I used a few that are 18 Ga galvanized, and two in the main "hole" area which are 10 Ga or heavier. They were pre-drilled, so I am able to form them to the shape of the angle for the floorboard/rocker connection, and use the holes in them to be the guides for the holes I drill through the metal in the car.
A picture is attached:
The rust converter is curing and transforming/sealing the rust. Ill next prime and enclose everything with Eastwood rust encapsulator to seal it all up.
Ive drilled all the holes for the rivets, and after everything is painted and dry, then Ill coat with tar, other rust-preventative coatings, epoxy what needs to be epoxied in place, and then rivet everything tight.
Once all riveted, I plan to repaint the whole assembly from the top, after applying brushable seam sealer.
I also plan to dip my rivets that will go into the rocker or to the weather first in eastwood rust encapsulator (which is a good primer for steel), then coat them in eastwood HD anti-rust, which is a self-healing waxy coating similar to Amsoil HD MP.
Ill post more pics when Im able...
Any thoughts/comments???
Thanks!
Then, I took
