How did you like the Carwell spray gun? Was it worth the $100?
Rust stop approach
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JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Donald
How did you like the Carwell spray gun? Was it worth the $100?
It was more like $150. Ill review it in more detail on my carwell thread. Compared to a regular spray gun with the tank attached to the handle, this is FAR more handy. Keep in mind Im laying on my back with my car up on ramps. Maybe it wouldnt be such an issue if the car was up high, but for that, the ability to keep the can out in a convenient spot and just pull the trigger, and just fish the wand in where I need it to be is VERY useful.
I would like a longer wand.
How did you like the Carwell spray gun? Was it worth the $100?
It was more like $150. Ill review it in more detail on my carwell thread. Compared to a regular spray gun with the tank attached to the handle, this is FAR more handy. Keep in mind Im laying on my back with my car up on ramps. Maybe it wouldnt be such an issue if the car was up high, but for that, the ability to keep the can out in a convenient spot and just pull the trigger, and just fish the wand in where I need it to be is VERY useful.
I would like a longer wand.
I would like to have a wand attachment for my Fluid Film gun, that would make spraying inside the rocker panels a lot easier.
JHZR2
Staff member
There is a big benefit to having something like this versus something where the nozzle is right at the end, or where the wands are too thick. I also like that there is no handle, the upwards trigger is great.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
There is a big benefit to having something like this versus something where the nozzle is right at the end, or where the wands are too thick. I also like that there is no handle, the upwards trigger is great.
How long will it take to do my Jeep if I drop it at your house on Sat?
There is a big benefit to having something like this versus something where the nozzle is right at the end, or where the wands are too thick. I also like that there is no handle, the upwards trigger is great.
How long will it take to do my Jeep if I drop it at your house on Sat?
Nice job!
There are products that work very well to stop corrosion. All of them are oil based.
LPS-3 dries to a waxy coating and is thin enough to penetrate a little bit, during application
AV-30 dries to a tough waxy coating and is very thin during application, it is engineered to wick into tight areas. It's the best, by far, of any of the "wick and protect" products I've found. It prevents corrosion, 100% when applied correctly.
Par-Al-Ketone is a cosmoline type product. It's cheap, easy to apply, and easily thinned with MEK to make it wick. It also dries to a semi hard coating. It's a close competitor to AV-30, at 1/10th the cost.
LPS Procyon is a hard coat product that protects very well, when sprayed on. I use this on engines that sit outside with excellent results.
Corrosion-X and ACF-50 are thin oils, incredibly effective at corrosion protection of welded seams. But best overcoated with a hard coat product.
Boeshield is a "middle of the road" product. It goes on very thin, but dries to a clear, sticky coating. It's semi durable. More durable than corrosion-x but less durable than AV-30 or Par-Al-Ketone.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/aircraft/chemicals/corrosion-control.html
There are products that work very well to stop corrosion. All of them are oil based.
LPS-3 dries to a waxy coating and is thin enough to penetrate a little bit, during application
AV-30 dries to a tough waxy coating and is very thin during application, it is engineered to wick into tight areas. It's the best, by far, of any of the "wick and protect" products I've found. It prevents corrosion, 100% when applied correctly.
Par-Al-Ketone is a cosmoline type product. It's cheap, easy to apply, and easily thinned with MEK to make it wick. It also dries to a semi hard coating. It's a close competitor to AV-30, at 1/10th the cost.
LPS Procyon is a hard coat product that protects very well, when sprayed on. I use this on engines that sit outside with excellent results.
Corrosion-X and ACF-50 are thin oils, incredibly effective at corrosion protection of welded seams. But best overcoated with a hard coat product.
Boeshield is a "middle of the road" product. It goes on very thin, but dries to a clear, sticky coating. It's semi durable. More durable than corrosion-x but less durable than AV-30 or Par-Al-Ketone.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/aircraft/chemicals/corrosion-control.html
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
There is a big benefit to having something like this versus something where the nozzle is right at the end, or where the wands are too thick. I also like that there is no handle, the upwards trigger is great.
How long will it take to do my Jeep if I drop it at your house on Sat?
Dont know where you are in NY, but Id consider giving you a hand to do this with my tools if youre really interested and I can find time.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
There is a big benefit to having something like this versus something where the nozzle is right at the end, or where the wands are too thick. I also like that there is no handle, the upwards trigger is great.
How long will it take to do my Jeep if I drop it at your house on Sat?
Dont know where you are in NY, but Id consider giving you a hand to do this with my tools if youre really interested and I can find time.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Nice job!
There are products that work very well to stop corrosion. All of them are oil based.
LPS-3 dries to a waxy coating and is thin enough to penetrate a little bit, during application
AV-30 dries to a tough waxy coating and is very thin during application, it is engineered to wick into tight areas. It's the best, by far, of any of the "wick and protect" products I've found. It prevents corrosion, 100% when applied correctly.
Par-Al-Ketone is a cosmoline type product. It's cheap, easy to apply, and easily thinned with MEK to make it wick. It also dries to a semi hard coating. It's a close competitor to AV-30, at 1/10th the cost.
LPS Procyon is a hard coat product that protects very well, when sprayed on. I use this on engines that sit outside with excellent results.
Corrosion-X and ACF-50 are thin oils, incredibly effective at corrosion protection of welded seams. But best overcoated with a hard coat product.
Boeshield is a "middle of the road" product. It goes on very thin, but dries to a clear, sticky coating. It's semi durable. More durable than corrosion-x but less durable than AV-30 or Par-Al-Ketone.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/aircraft/chemicals/corrosion-control.html
Good stuff! Thanks!
I like carwell because it is Krown and there is lots of history.
Hard dryign stuff has always scared me because it may not self heal as well and may let water sit underneath like a blister.
Have you ever seen these types of things?
Nice job!
There are products that work very well to stop corrosion. All of them are oil based.
LPS-3 dries to a waxy coating and is thin enough to penetrate a little bit, during application
AV-30 dries to a tough waxy coating and is very thin during application, it is engineered to wick into tight areas. It's the best, by far, of any of the "wick and protect" products I've found. It prevents corrosion, 100% when applied correctly.
Par-Al-Ketone is a cosmoline type product. It's cheap, easy to apply, and easily thinned with MEK to make it wick. It also dries to a semi hard coating. It's a close competitor to AV-30, at 1/10th the cost.
LPS Procyon is a hard coat product that protects very well, when sprayed on. I use this on engines that sit outside with excellent results.
Corrosion-X and ACF-50 are thin oils, incredibly effective at corrosion protection of welded seams. But best overcoated with a hard coat product.
Boeshield is a "middle of the road" product. It goes on very thin, but dries to a clear, sticky coating. It's semi durable. More durable than corrosion-x but less durable than AV-30 or Par-Al-Ketone.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/aircraft/chemicals/corrosion-control.html
Good stuff! Thanks!
I like carwell because it is Krown and there is lots of history.
Hard dryign stuff has always scared me because it may not self heal as well and may let water sit underneath like a blister.
Have you ever seen these types of things?
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Nice job!
There are products that work very well to stop corrosion. All of them are oil based.
LPS-3 dries to a waxy coating and is thin enough to penetrate a little bit, during application
AV-30 dries to a tough waxy coating and is very thin during application, it is engineered to wick into tight areas. It's the best, by far, of any of the "wick and protect" products I've found. It prevents corrosion, 100% when applied correctly.
Par-Al-Ketone is a cosmoline type product. It's cheap, easy to apply, and easily thinned with MEK to make it wick. It also dries to a semi hard coating. It's a close competitor to AV-30, at 1/10th the cost.
LPS Procyon is a hard coat product that protects very well, when sprayed on. I use this on engines that sit outside with excellent results.
Corrosion-X and ACF-50 are thin oils, incredibly effective at corrosion protection of welded seams. But best overcoated with a hard coat product.
Boeshield is a "middle of the road" product. It goes on very thin, but dries to a clear, sticky coating. It's semi durable. More durable than corrosion-x but less durable than AV-30 or Par-Al-Ketone.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/aircraft/chemicals/corrosion-control.html
Good stuff! Thanks!
I like carwell because it is Krown and there is lots of history.
Hard dryign stuff has always scared me because it may not self heal as well and may let water sit underneath like a blister.
Have you ever seen these types of things?
I thought Krown was lanolin based, and rust check was mineral oil based?
not "oil base"
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Nice job!
There are products that work very well to stop corrosion. All of them are oil based.
LPS-3 dries to a waxy coating and is thin enough to penetrate a little bit, during application
AV-30 dries to a tough waxy coating and is very thin during application, it is engineered to wick into tight areas. It's the best, by far, of any of the "wick and protect" products I've found. It prevents corrosion, 100% when applied correctly.
Par-Al-Ketone is a cosmoline type product. It's cheap, easy to apply, and easily thinned with MEK to make it wick. It also dries to a semi hard coating. It's a close competitor to AV-30, at 1/10th the cost.
LPS Procyon is a hard coat product that protects very well, when sprayed on. I use this on engines that sit outside with excellent results.
Corrosion-X and ACF-50 are thin oils, incredibly effective at corrosion protection of welded seams. But best overcoated with a hard coat product.
Boeshield is a "middle of the road" product. It goes on very thin, but dries to a clear, sticky coating. It's semi durable. More durable than corrosion-x but less durable than AV-30 or Par-Al-Ketone.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/aircraft/chemicals/corrosion-control.html
Good stuff! Thanks!
I like carwell because it is Krown and there is lots of history.
Hard dryign stuff has always scared me because it may not self heal as well and may let water sit underneath like a blister.
Have you ever seen these types of things?
I thought Krown was lanolin based, and rust check was mineral oil based?
not "oil base"
JHZR2
Staff member
Krown is not lanolin based per my discussions with them.
JHZR2
Staff member
Quote:
Krown is not an ‘oil’ spray as such. It is an oily-film type of product but more accurately described as a complex mixture of chemicals that have certain characteristics. For example, it will have something in it to dissipate moisture on contact so that Krown can be sprayed in any type of weather and any season. It will displace the moisture on contact, it will adhere to the metal and you will not take it off bare metal with soaps or water. So driving up and down the road in wet weather or in winter conditions will not take the product off the metal regardless of the weather conditions at the time it is applied.
Quote:
Krown will have a bonding agent that allows it to bond to metal upon contact, whether metal is dry or not. The Krown formula is a protected formula, therefore, only a select few persons actually know the exact ingredients that make up the product. There are no toxic or hazardous chemicals in the product and it is not controlled under WHMIS legislation. There is nothing of a cancer causing nature, nothing of a peanut nature, for persons concerned about anaphylactic reactions. There are no solvents, no kerosene or gasoline and no aggressive chemicals of any kind. There is no paraffin, wax or lanolin in Krown.
http://www.londonkrownsouth.com/whyChooseUs.html
Krown is not an ‘oil’ spray as such. It is an oily-film type of product but more accurately described as a complex mixture of chemicals that have certain characteristics. For example, it will have something in it to dissipate moisture on contact so that Krown can be sprayed in any type of weather and any season. It will displace the moisture on contact, it will adhere to the metal and you will not take it off bare metal with soaps or water. So driving up and down the road in wet weather or in winter conditions will not take the product off the metal regardless of the weather conditions at the time it is applied.
Quote:
Krown will have a bonding agent that allows it to bond to metal upon contact, whether metal is dry or not. The Krown formula is a protected formula, therefore, only a select few persons actually know the exact ingredients that make up the product. There are no toxic or hazardous chemicals in the product and it is not controlled under WHMIS legislation. There is nothing of a cancer causing nature, nothing of a peanut nature, for persons concerned about anaphylactic reactions. There are no solvents, no kerosene or gasoline and no aggressive chemicals of any kind. There is no paraffin, wax or lanolin in Krown.
http://www.londonkrownsouth.com/whyChooseUs.html
hammerite makes a product called"rust cap"
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