Rust Near Hatchback Hinges

[JerryBob]

The area under my 2002 Odyssey hatchback, at the top, near and including the hinges, is starting to rust. It is not very accessible, but I was able to sand some of it with some 80-grit wrapped around a paint stirring stick.

Any suggestions on how to tackle the remaining short of removing the hatchback? Liquid rust remover?

My plan after removal was to put some Rustoleum primer on it, then some silver paint.

Thanks.

 

[dlundblad]

This may help. I've had better luck with Evapo Rust, but seeing how you can't submerge the parts..

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_naval/overview/Loctite-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver.htm

 

[EdwardC]

I would try apply some rust reformer or naval jelly type product before (or in lieu of) priming.

 

[Ducked]

Rub with aluminium foil. Once most of the rust is gone, paint it with a little sunflower oil, and rub quite a lot more. Crumpled foil is a self forming "sanding" block and will conform to the surface. You are abrading and finishing in one operation.

Avoid getting the oil into the hinges (probably just by pre-lubing them with say, a spray grease and wiping off), because its a pretty good adhesive and might gum them up.

If its inaccessible (looks OK in the picture) or the rust is stubborn, some kind of aluminium rod in a drill chuck will help. I've used bits of old TV aerial (though those might be becoming collectors items now) arrow shaft, curtain rail, or formed tube from rolled up beer can. The last is weak unless supported internally so you have to be gentle with it.

I don't worry about appearance but in that location it won't show much and won't be a dramatic mismatch with the silvery paint finish anyway.

 

[Ethan1]

Any workaround is going to be much worse than taking off the liftgate.

 

[andyd]

Originally Posted By: Ducked
Rub with aluminium foil. Once most of the rust is gone, paint it with a little sunflower oil, and rub quite a lot more. Crumpled foil is a self forming "sanding" block and will conform to the surface. You are abrading and finishing in one operation.

Avoid getting the oil into the hinges (probably just by pre-lubing them with say, a spray grease and wiping off), because its a pretty good adhesive and might gum them up.

If its inaccessible (looks OK in the picture) or the rust is stubborn, some kind of aluminium rod in a drill chuck will help. I've used bits of old TV aerial (though those might be becoming collectors items now) arrow shaft, curtain rail, or formed tube from rolled up beer can. The last is weak unless supported internally so you have to be gentle with it

I don't worry about appearance but in that location it won't show much and won't be a dramatic mismatch with the silvery paint finish anyway.
I am of the school that if something is bound up by rust or not being flexed, then oiling and flexing will ease hinges. I've dedicated an hour to freeing up the triple acting hood hinges on a 528e. Lube the hinges exercise them. Wipe and repeat. You want the hinges 100% free. This will prevent a bound up hinge from flexing the panel it is attached to. The action of panel flexing pops the paint off..

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: andyd
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Rub with aluminium foil. Once most of the rust is gone, paint it with a little sunflower oil, and rub quite a lot more. Crumpled foil is a self forming "sanding" block and will conform to the surface. You are abrading and finishing in one operation.

Avoid getting the oil into the hinges (probably just by pre-lubing them with say, a spray grease and wiping off), because its a pretty good adhesive and might gum them up.

If its inaccessible (looks OK in the picture) or the rust is stubborn, some kind of aluminium rod in a drill chuck will help. I've used bits of old TV aerial (though those might be becoming collectors items now) arrow shaft, curtain rail, or formed tube from rolled up beer can. The last is weak unless supported internally so you have to be gentle with it

I don't worry about appearance but in that location it won't show much and won't be a dramatic mismatch with the silvery paint finish anyway.
I am of the school that if something is bound up by rust or not being flexed, then oiling and flexing will ease hinges. I've dedicated an hour to freeing up the triple acting hood hinges on a 528e. Lube the hinges exercise them. Wipe and repeat. You want the hinges 100% free. This will prevent a bound up hinge from flexing the panel it is attached to. The action of panel flexing pops the paint off..


Seems reasonable, but why are you telling me this?

 

[Donald]

Evapo-Rust only works if you can immerse the item.

I would try some liquid rust converter. Clean well after treatment and use POR-15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Then paint silver.
Do not sand after the POR-15 or Rust Encapsulator.

 

[Trav]

For areas like this with light rust I have had good results with Bullfrog. It is a thicker liquid that will hang in there.
Clean it and apply with a cheap chip brush coat wherever there is rust and leave it overnight or until the rust is gone, reapply if necessary and leave it longer it will not harm metal like stronger acid based products.

Wash or wipe it way with a wet cloth or sponge and dry it. Apply self etching primer to the area, put 2 or 3 good coats on it then a coat of regular primer and paint.

https://www.amazon.com/Bull-Frog-Remover...og+rust+remover

This is the self etch primer you can get it for half this price at AA.

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DAP16...+etching+primer

 

[KrisZ]

I would simply remove the plug, seen in the picture, and spray Fluid Film or Rust Check in there. With the straw attached, the can shoots it pretty far. The oil will coat the inside and will creep through the seems, covering the outside rust as well. It will effectively stop the rust from spreading. I had also good luck with this method on door seams. No rust removal required.

If you're really anal about cleaning up the rust on the outside, do so first, but if the inside is not treated with oil, the rust will come back pretty quickly.

 

[bvance554]

Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: andyd
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Rub with aluminium foil. Once most of the rust is gone, paint it with a little sunflower oil, and rub quite a lot more. Crumpled foil is a self forming "sanding" block and will conform to the surface. You are abrading and finishing in one operation.

Avoid getting the oil into the hinges (probably just by pre-lubing them with say, a spray grease and wiping off), because its a pretty good adhesive and might gum them up.

If its inaccessible (looks OK in the picture) or the rust is stubborn, some kind of aluminium rod in a drill chuck will help. I've used bits of old TV aerial (though those might be becoming collectors items now) arrow shaft, curtain rail, or formed tube from rolled up beer can. The last is weak unless supported internally so you have to be gentle with it

I don't worry about appearance but in that location it won't show much and won't be a dramatic mismatch with the silvery paint finish anyway.
I am of the school that if something is bound up by rust or not being flexed, then oiling and flexing will ease hinges. I've dedicated an hour to freeing up the triple acting hood hinges on a 528e. Lube the hinges exercise them. Wipe and repeat. You want the hinges 100% free. This will prevent a bound up hinge from flexing the panel it is attached to. The action of panel flexing pops the paint off..


Seems reasonable, but why are you telling me this?


I don't believe it had anything to do with you. He was sharing information just like you.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: bvance554
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: andyd
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Rub with aluminium foil. Once most of the rust is gone, paint it with a little sunflower oil, and rub quite a lot more. Crumpled foil is a self forming "sanding" block and will conform to the surface. You are abrading and finishing in one operation.

Avoid getting the oil into the hinges (probably just by pre-lubing them with say, a spray grease and wiping off), because its a pretty good adhesive and might gum them up.

If its inaccessible (looks OK in the picture) or the rust is stubborn, some kind of aluminium rod in a drill chuck will help. I've used bits of old TV aerial (though those might be becoming collectors items now) arrow shaft, curtain rail, or formed tube from rolled up beer can. The last is weak unless supported internally so you have to be gentle with it

I don't worry about appearance but in that location it won't show much and won't be a dramatic mismatch with the silvery paint finish anyway.
I am of the school that if something is bound up by rust or not being flexed, then oiling and flexing will ease hinges. I've dedicated an hour to freeing up the triple acting hood hinges on a 528e. Lube the hinges exercise them. Wipe and repeat. You want the hinges 100% free. This will prevent a bound up hinge from flexing the panel it is attached to. The action of panel flexing pops the paint off..


Seems reasonable, but why are you telling me this?


I don't believe it had anything to do with you. He was sharing information just like you.


Fair enough, but it was a reply and it did quote my post, which made me wonder, especially as previous similar posts on this forum have always been ignored.

Most people (except on the Bangernomics forum) prefer multi-step processes involving multiple purchases of materials that'll probably go off before they use them again. See above.

Their money, of course, and its probably good for the economy.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I would simply remove the plug, seen in the picture, and spray Fluid Film or Rust Check in there. With the straw attached, the can shoots it pretty far. The oil will coat the inside and will creep through the seems, covering the outside rust as well. It will effectively stop the rust from spreading. I had also good luck with this method on door seams. No rust removal required.

If you're really anal about cleaning up the rust on the outside, do so first, but if the inside is not treated with oil, the rust will come back pretty quickly.


The point about cavity treatment is a good one generally and might usefully back-up surface treatment, though the above picture doesn't especially look like rusting through from the inside.

I use an oil/diesel or kerosene/vegetable oil mix for cavity treatment, but in this situation the amount required is small and maybe a bought product might be worthwhile.

 

[KrisZ]

In my experience, rust like in the OP is never just on the surface.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I would simply remove the plug, seen in the picture, and spray Fluid Film or Rust Check in there. With the straw attached, the can shoots it pretty far. The oil will coat the inside and will creep through the seems, covering the outside rust as well. It will effectively stop the rust from spreading. I had also good luck with this method on door seams. No rust removal required.

If you're really anal about cleaning up the rust on the outside, do so first, but if the inside is not treated with oil, the rust will come back pretty quickly.


That's what I'd do too, but because the rest of the vehicle is likely not far behind. Just slowing down the rust, buying a couple more years.