Take Me To Paint And Body Work School

[BlueOvalFitter]

2007 F150, Dark Blue Pearl Metallic First of all, if this is not the correct forum for this, please move it. About 10-11 years ago, a pecan fell from a tree and put a small chip (about a 1/4" in diameter) in in my roofs paint. I used some chip repair to fill it and all was good. Well, it wasn't. As the years went buy, the chip started getting bigger. FF to 2016. The chip was now the size of a quarter. I took it to several P&B shops and they ALL said the same thing, the whole roof needed to be repainted. $300. But, only one was able to do it that week. 4 days later and $300, my roof looked purty again. FF again, to present day. There are 3 spots on the very front of the roof near the windshield that have lost its paint and have started to rust. The shop that did the repair is NO MORE. I have no money to get this fixed. BUT, there is a family friend that has 6 years P&B shop experience that is willing to help me out. He only asks that I supply the material and have my son help him. My son can get some of the material I need from the P&B shop Mgr. at the Ford dealership he works at. I will be buying the Dupli-Color paint (code DX-M7083A-Dark Blue Pearl), primer, and clear coat, from Advance and NAPA, or any local paint shop that carries Dupli-Color spray paints. Okay, before I go on, this Q&A part is for the professional paint and body shop guys here. No offense to the exp. DIY'ers. I just want to be educated by the REAL PROS here. First, he can only do the repair with spray paint cans. I have found the correct color. What is the process from beginning to end will he be doing, with the materials I will be providing him? Will he need an etching primer, then a primer over that primer before painting? What grit sand papers will he need? Will he sand between coats of primer? What cleaning agents will he need to clean his work (mineral spirits, acetone, 91% isopropyl alcohol, etc.)? He has told me his process, somewhat. I don't want to step on his toes, AND, he told me he has an open mind to suggestions. I did tell him I would seek advice and he is very cool with that. Anything I left out please fill in the blanks. I'm sure some of you are thinking this is not the way to do it. I know this, but unless you fund this procedure, this is the best I can do. Thank You for your advice!

 

[dave123]

As a professional good luck I won't chim in as it's not a professional way to do it or even close to it don't expect much from it.. I'm just being honest a don't mean to rain on the parade.

 

[MParr]

A friend of mine did a total prep and paint on a 1970 VW Beetle that I once owned. It came out looking great. I will tell you to use any primer, base coat and clear coat made by the same paint manufacturer. I don't know enough about Duplicolor to have an opinion. I would say that PPG automotive paint products would be the way to go. You should be able to get PPG automotive paints at your local paint and body supplier. From what I am seeing, your problem started from your last paint job. Notice the masking line at the windshield trim.

 

[thastinger]

Be careful with the F150s as the bare metal gets a clear phospherous coating before the factory paint, if you sand the factory paint down and expose that phos to oxygen it will corrode from under the paint.

 

[Veilside]

If you're looking for feedback from P&B professionals you'd probably be best served finding a forum for such and posting your question there. Although I can almost certainly guaranty that you will get varying opinions there as well.

 

[atikovi]

A proper job requires a paint booth and professional supplies and materials. A rattlecan application done outdoors has neither of those. Might be able to do a good "20 footer" job but doubt it will last more than a year or two. Just the dust falling on it while the paint is wet will be a problem. The high humidity is another.

 

[GMBoy]

You would be much better off using paint from automotivetouchup.com then anything dupli-color.

 

[kstanf150]

Originally Posted by GMBoy

You would be much better off using paint from automotivetouchup.com then anything dupli-color.

Totally agree with ya 👍

 

[Trav]

Repairing this by any other method other than a bare metal strip down on that panel is peeing in the wind. The paint, primer and all is de-laminating from the metal not just the clear coat, you fix these spots and its only a matter of time and it may not be very long before its starts somewhere else. Sand it down with an orbital sander, feather the edges, give it a white vinegar wipe down (acidic) then coat it with self etching primer and a single stage rattle can as a temporary fix until you can get it done properly. I wouldn't invest too much time or money into it as it is now, you want to prevent it from rusting further that all.

 

[meep]

I've had good luck with dupli-color durability, if the surface prep is good, at least for their wheel paints. The wheel paints take 7 days or more to cure. getting clear right in a backyard is darn tricky though. too hot, and orange peel is hard to control. dust can get in there, requiring more sanding. too cool and it is more apt to run before setting if you're not careful. The metallic solids are generous and should be sanded, the clear is light and thin and likes to run. I'm being super picky here, but I've had some lucky attempts that turned out fabulous. My autozone now carries VHT instead. I think the chemistry is probably similar due to the identical 7-day cure time, but the clear for me has been harder to work with. I had to bathe the clear coat cans in HOT water during application to reduce orange peel a bit. Probably fine over gray, a bit lacking over black.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted by Trav

Repairing this by any other method other than a bare metal strip down on that panel is peeing in the wind. The paint, primer and all is de-laminating from the metal not just the clear coat, you fix these spots and its only a matter of time and it may not be very long before its starts somewhere else. Sand it down with an orbital sander, feather the edges, give it a white vinegar wipe down (acidic) then coat it with self etching primer and a single stage rattle can as a temporary fix until you can get it done properly. I wouldn't invest too much time or money into it as it is now, you want to prevent it from rusting further that all.

This is what I'm trying to do, until I can get it done correctly. Thanks for all of the replies.

 

[Trav]

I got that, that's why I said use a single stage and skip the base/clear. Not too involved just a protect and color that is close from a distance, no fine finishing and buffing.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

My son was able to get in touch with a body man that used to work at the dealership. He and my son discussed payment, and he's doing the work. He's going to keep my truck for 2-3 days and do the body work at the indy P&B shop he works at. He said he will let the primer dry 24 hours and let his painter do his thing the next day. I will keep this post updated as it occurs. Thanks for all of the replies.

 

[Trav]

That's great. Ask him to use self etching epoxy 2k primer, it will prevent the same thing happening again.

 

[kschachn]

I've never seen a self-etching epoxy primer. There are self-etching primers and there are epoxy primers, where have you seen one that is both?

 

[Trav]

DTM primers like Axalta and Nason Ful Poxy are by default epoxy etching primers unlike epoxy primers like Axalta Corlar which is a standard epoxy sanding primer. With DTM an acidic wipe down like any other primer is all thats required, an additional "etching primer" base is not needed. Ful Poxy can even be used over bare aluminum. I use Ful Poxy on everything then top it with a 2K urethane primer.

 

[cronk]

The glass should be pulled so the panel can be painted edge to edge. If you just mask along the windshield, the paint will start peeling back at the tape seem. Kind of looks like that might be what is happing at this point.

 

[Trav]

Yep a quick yank out, bondo, mask, shoot and maybe blend it to the top of the post is what they want to pay for. Real crap, not a proper repair.

 

[Trav]

Ignore my last post, wrong thread.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

<span style="font-weight: bold">My trucks paint work on the roof is complete.</span>