Take Me To Paint And Body Work School

[nthach]

Originally Posted by Trav

DTM primers like Axalta and Nason Ful Poxy are by default epoxy etching primers unlike epoxy primers like Axalta Corlar which is a standard epoxy sanding primer. With DTM an acidic wipe down like any other primer is all thats required, an additional "etching primer" base is not needed. Ful Poxy can even be used over bare aluminum. I use Ful Poxy on everything then top it with a 2K urethane primer.

I don't think those are "etching" primers but rather direct-to-metal without the need for etch primer. Epoxy primers are considered the gold standard for corrosion protection in the aftermarket. Looking at the SDS for that Nason stuff, there's zinc phosphate and under 1% of salicylic acid. The latter is an hydroxy acid more than likely used as a preservative. When I took an auto body course at the local community college some 12-13 years ago, it was generally understood that etch primer was never to be topcoated with epoxy primer or applied under filler. We used Sikkens or Lesonal back then, but we kept a gallon can of PPG DP40LF in case we ever needed to use epoxy.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

My son said he used SIKKENS products.

 

[The Critic]

Why wasn't the windshield removed?

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted by The Critic

Why wasn't the windshield removed?

Lack of funds? Was the windshield supposed to be removed? Now that it is fixed, how long should I wait to polish, wax, spray detail, etc.? What are the recommended products to use? Compound, wax, polish, spray detail? A week, 2 weeks, 30 days, 2 months.....

 

[nthach]

PPG says 30 days before waxing. I've had luck with Menzerna for post-paint correction. I think Meguiar's 105/205 is a lot easier to get.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by nthach

Originally Posted by Trav

DTM primers like Axalta and Nason Ful Poxy are by default epoxy etching primers unlike epoxy primers like Axalta Corlar which is a standard epoxy sanding primer. With DTM an acidic wipe down like any other primer is all thats required, an additional "etching primer" base is not needed. Ful Poxy can even be used over bare aluminum. I use Ful Poxy on everything then top it with a 2K urethane primer.

I don't think those are "etching" primers but rather direct-to-metal without the need for etch primer. Epoxy primers are considered the gold standard for corrosion protection in the aftermarket. Looking at the SDS for that Nason stuff, there's zinc phosphate and under 1% of salicylic acid. The latter is an hydroxy acid more than likely used as a preservative. When I took an auto body course at the local community college some 12-13 years ago, it was generally understood that etch primer was never to be topcoated with epoxy primer or applied under filler. We used Sikkens or Lesonal back then, but we kept a gallon can of PPG DP40LF in case we ever needed to use epoxy.

That is what the Dupont rep told me some years ago, you may be right but the bottom line is you don't need anything under the epoxy. I always do a white vinegar wipe down on steel panels before applying the primer which is a kind of etch in of itself. Thanks for the info though, if I see him again (at the paint supply shop randomly) I will ask him.

 

[TheLawnRanger]

This seems like an Autogeek post I once read.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted by TheLawnRanger

This seems like an Autogeek post I once read.

It is posted over there too. Why? For advice on how to follow up with detailing a repainted roof.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter

Originally Posted by The Critic

Why wasn't the windshield removed?

Lack of funds? Was the windshield supposed to be removed? Now that it is fixed, how long should I wait to polish, wax, spray detail, etc.? What are the recommended products to use? Compound, wax, polish, spray detail? A week, 2 weeks, 30 days, 2 months.....

To each their own, but I would have waited on the repair until it could be done properly. You really cannot paint a roof properly without pulling the windshield. If the roof was already painted, you can wetsand and polish immediately. Protection should wait, but again, it depends on the paint mfg's instructions. Each one is different.