Any guidance on the door sill rust

Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
843
Location
HUdson Valley, NY
2015 Subaru Forester, ~45K on the odometer

While cleaning I noticed very little rust near the door sills so removed the protector. I noticed a good bit of surface rust beginning to build.

Sill Rust.png


YouTube videos suggest to sand it down to the metal, primer application, few coats of the paint and then the clear coat. Is that the best method?

If yes, what grit sandpaper should I start with?

Once it is fixed, does it make sense to put protection film in that area?

Any other guidance is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 
Repair that properly by the methods you describe. As for sanding grit, that depends on whether you are doing it by hand or machine, and the type of machine. If you are doing that by hand, red scotchbrite might be enough. Using a DA sander, 320 or 400 would be just fine.

If that's due to wear, the idea of protection is a good one.

I love the Corrosion X line of products, especially standard Corrosion X followed by Corrosion X Max-Wax. They would be good for those welded seams. I spray the inside seams of my doors too.
 
Start with 320 just on the rust. Then move to 700, and then to 1000. I would then prime it and paint it with single stage for the color coat. After everything cures, I would use clear gravel guard or an equivalent coating there. It looks like rusted area is being caused by hard edge of sill protector in an abrasion movement.

Subies have been know for rusting. Get some WD40 and spray it in the door drain holes and and around any overlapping seam on the body.

For the underside of the floorpan you can use a product like Fluid Film or an equivalent. Make sure you double coat the seam areas.
 
Are those "spider web" legs above the rust line actually rust traveling underneath the paint? If so, you need to destroy that also. I would tape off the good paint prior to rough sanding to limit wrecking the good paint. To your method, I would add a metal prep wash with phosphoric acid before priming to eliminate any rust nubs embedded in the metal. Since most of the area is covered by the plastic guard, looks are not that important.

To prevent future paint rubbing? Your paint film idea is great - probably should wait 30 days for new paint to gas out? I have used heavy black electrical tape successfully (3M88) - a nice straight line extending about 1/8 inch beyond the sill trim won't be noticed. A thin coat of truck bed liner would work, again it has to extend a tiny bit beyond the sill trim.
 
I would treat it first with some iron remover and see how well it cleans up. Then repost some pics. Given your location and paint color the iron remover will be useful for the exterior paint work.
 
The "spidering" is called filiform or vermicular corrosion. Corrosion has a habit of tunneling under paint and on free surfaces.

Isn't 700 and 1000 grit overkill for this task? He is not finishing a Class A surface.
 
I learn new stuff here everyday. Aren't vehicles treated with an e-coat prior to painting anymore? This minor annoyance would be troublesome in the heavy salt laden rust belt. It seems many vehicles have one type of Achilles heel or another. Sigh.
 
I learn new stuff here everyday. Aren't vehicles treated with an e-coat prior to painting anymore? This minor annoyance would be troublesome in the heavy salt laden rust belt. It seems many vehicles have one type of Achilles heel or another. Sigh.

Yes, all modern vehicles have some form of corrosion protection. However, as we all know, it's designed to last as only as long as it needs to. Even the choice of steel makes a difference. Chrysler had a real problem with low grade recycled steel rusting rapidly.

I despise rust!
 
Trav will have the be all, end all of a fix for this.

Like mentioned, I think the plastic sill cover is going to repeat this madness if left as-is. I'd coat the effected area with rust bullet or POR15, then cover it with clear 3M tape, then snap the sill cover back in place. Check it once a year or so.. The rust bullet I have is a very similar silver color to what you have.

My 2012 Subaru legacy sedan had paint starting to bubble under the lip of the trunk lid around the drain holes after it's FIRST winter. I've not seen abrasion type paint issues on them, but never pulled the sill plates either!
 
Is this where you get into the car, near the rocker panel? Why is there a big hole opening across that?
 
Thank you, everyone, for all the replies.

I am doing this for the first time, so I will appreciate it if you guys could confirm my choices of products. If not, pls link the product that you would recommend.

I would treat it first with some iron remover and see how well it cleans up. Then repost some pics. Given your location and paint color the iron remover will be useful for the exterior paint work.

While searching I came across a lot of rust eliminator type of products, like Rust Dissolver by Rust-Oleum, or Corrosion X that @Cujet suggested. The videos show that they 'remove' the rust. Taking a cue from your comment, what is best idea, use rust dissolver like material first before trying to sand down or just sand it down?

I have to check again if the rust is 'filamentous'. If it is, whats the best strategy to deal with it, sand off all the paint on top of it and reach to the bare metal? Will rust dissolver help there?


I love the Corrosion X line of products, especially standard Corrosion X followed by Corrosion X Max-Wax
The description of this product sounds like it will convert the rust and keep it that way, but do you use it as a preventative?

The red Scotch Brite you mentioned, is it this (https://www.amazon.com/Scuff-Pads-Scotch-Brite-Brand/dp/B00MBPT0F8) product?

After everything cures, I would use clear gravel guard or an equivalent coating there.
I acutally ordered protection film. My idea was, even if I fix this, it is going to repat in a few years, just because the way it is designed. Once I fix and apply protection film, replacing the film is a lot easier chore than fixing the paint.

I'd coat the effected area with rust bullet or POR15, then cover it with clear 3M tape, then snap the sill cover back in place
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002P4KM2 Is this the product you are referring to? If I choose to go this way, the process should be like, clean the rust by any means, sand or use rust eliminator and apply this. The result look silver/greyish in color. Once thats done, apply the 3M protection film.

The reason why I am trying to figure out easiest option because there is a lot of variety to choose from. I was just looking at automotive primers. There are so many, I have no idea which one is better fit for my purpose.

If I decide to repaint then I will go with Duplicolor paint but my paint is not in stock with Duplicolor. Is there any other automotive paint that comes in a spray can?



About application of rust inhibitor to the underside, I have talked to many local mechanics, almost all tell me that it is useless now that the car is more than 5 years old. When it was new, I was told not to apply because it could potentially void any warranty. TBH, don't know the best way forward.

Thanks again for all comments, and apologies if the questions sound too basic. As I said, I am doing this for the first time and a little hesitant that I may end up making it worse than it already is. So crossing my t's and dotting my i's.
 
The choice of steel makes a difference. Chrysler had a real problem with low grade recycled steel rusting rapidly.
I don't see how the choice of steel (or quality of steel) used for body panels can factor in for rusting. Nearly all body panels are made from 1005 steel. Most steel is made from recycle. Years ago I used to do a lot of metallography on steel body panels and their coatings for one of the big three.

Care to elaborate?
 
I’m going to take a stab at this. Sometimes when dealers prep cars the workers use a sharp instrument to score the protective film. That line of rust looks just like someone scored the film there and hit the sill in the process. It’s a straight line.
 
I don't see how the choice of steel (or quality of steel) used for body panels can factor in for rusting. Nearly all body panels are made from 1005 steel. Most steel is made from recycle. Years ago I used to do a lot of metallography on steel body panels and their coatings for one of the big three.

Care to elaborate?

Some manufacturers are moving to thinner and higher strength steels for weight savings. Sometimes these low alloys have better corrosion resistance. Quote: "High-strength low-alloy steel (HSLA) is a type of alloy steel that provides better mechanical properties or greater resistance to corrosion than carbon steel"

Contrast that with aftermarket body panels made from lower grade materials that corrode rapidly.

 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002P4KM2 Is this the product you are referring to? If I choose to go this way, the process should be like, clean the rust by any means, sand or use rust eliminator and apply this. The result look silver/greyish in color. Once thats done, apply the 3M protection film.

The reason why I am trying to figure out easiest option

I forget how my 2016 Forester looked in that area, but that's the product I'm referring to and how I'd fix it provided the plastic sill cover hides the area. IMO, it's your easiest solution. I'm sure it's not the best, but probably easiest and effective.

You could overthink the heck out of this, but at the end of the day its's a ~6yr/old Subaru living in the rust belt.
 
Cujet, any increase in corrosion resistance is only minimal with HSLA steel. It is not a consideration when corrosion resistance is the main factor. Even your link states HSLA steel rusts.

Can you elaborate on how a choice of steel can factor in with rusting, and what was wrong with the steel Chrysler used that gave them a problem? Usually the problems are with the coatings, and not the steel itself. What was intrinsically wrong with the recycled steel that made it prone to corrosion?
 
I've used clear DUCK HD clear packaging tape ( or was it SCOTCH Heavy Duty ? ) for rocker panel and hood where chips occured . Cut to size and place over rust spot that's removed and treated with touch up paint . Had one deep chip on lower rocker panel that kept having rust come through the touch up paint . Redid it and placed the clear tape over the area after paint dried and no more rust for many years after . Cut it so it was slighlty larger than the diameter of the chip . The clear tape went through car washes , salted roads , the elements and remained in place . Had to look closely to find it .
 
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