Your engine is worn out then.
Running full sythetic in a classic car?
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Originally Posted By: FastLane
Your engine is worn out then.
If heavier oil can extend the life of an old engine, why not?
Keep going heavier and use an oil pan heater.
Your engine is worn out then.
If heavier oil can extend the life of an old engine, why not?
Keep going heavier and use an oil pan heater.
Sure if you want to but its still worn out. Look for a nice 302 to slip in that car and dump that boat anchor V6.
Most OTC oils are not full synthetic therefore they can be used with no issues. That is also why they can be used during the break in period.
A general question on synthetic in an older car from the 60's. If 20/50 multi is the preferred regular oil found to do well in a particular engine, how would that translate into a synthetic, weight wise? Would it be a synthetic that is the same viscosity, or does that all go out the window when using synth? How does that work?
Originally Posted By: revvedup
If 20/50 multi is the preferred regular oil found to do well in a particular engine, how would that translate into a synthetic, weight wise?
You would need to explain why it is "preferred" before a cogent answer to that question could be given.
If 20/50 multi is the preferred regular oil found to do well in a particular engine, how would that translate into a synthetic, weight wise?
You would need to explain why it is "preferred" before a cogent answer to that question could be given.
Preferred by the overwhelming majority of persons associated with the engine. Owners as well as experts. This can be a general, theoretical question on regular vs synthetic weights.
Of course if a particular engine is known to do best with 20w50 dino oil, for example, there is also a likely synthetic oil it is known to do best with. But can we assume that is not known? If you feel the question is a trick or lacking integrity, please feel free to offer a specific comparison between dino oil and synthetic oil that you are familiar with.
Or are consumers simply supposed to buy the synthetic in the same label weight? I don't know is why I am asking.
Of course if a particular engine is known to do best with 20w50 dino oil, for example, there is also a likely synthetic oil it is known to do best with. But can we assume that is not known? If you feel the question is a trick or lacking integrity, please feel free to offer a specific comparison between dino oil and synthetic oil that you are familiar with.
Or are consumers simply supposed to buy the synthetic in the same label weight? I don't know is why I am asking.
Originally Posted By: revvedup
A general question on synthetic in an older car from the 60's. If 20/50 multi is the preferred regular oil found to do well in a particular engine, how would that translate into a synthetic, weight wise? Would it be a synthetic that is the same viscosity, or does that all go out the window when using synth? How does that work?
A lot is about the HTHS. So a Syn equivalent for 20W-50 might be Mobil1 15W-50 for instance. But it ain't inexpensive, so why? Synthetics are good at managing heat issues and extending drain intervals. But they still have limits on absorbing combustion by-products...
So if you have a tired motor with blow-by, it's better to use something conventional like a dino HDEO - say Delvac and change it more often - say every 4K or 6 months ...
A general question on synthetic in an older car from the 60's. If 20/50 multi is the preferred regular oil found to do well in a particular engine, how would that translate into a synthetic, weight wise? Would it be a synthetic that is the same viscosity, or does that all go out the window when using synth? How does that work?
A lot is about the HTHS. So a Syn equivalent for 20W-50 might be Mobil1 15W-50 for instance. But it ain't inexpensive, so why? Synthetics are good at managing heat issues and extending drain intervals. But they still have limits on absorbing combustion by-products...
So if you have a tired motor with blow-by, it's better to use something conventional like a dino HDEO - say Delvac and change it more often - say every 4K or 6 months ...
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Originally Posted By: revvedup
...likely synthetic oil it is known to do best with. But can we assume that is not known? If you feel the question is a trick or lacking integrity, please feel free to offer a specific comparison between dino oil and synthetic oil that you are familiar with.
No, it is known, just not to the general public. Knowing why you do what you do is an exercise in discipline becoming more uncommon all the time. So asking generalized questions about a specific thing is rather disingenuous. Had you phrased your question such as : "My old car's engine is running great and I'm interested in longer drain intervals, so what oil?" or: "My old car is getting tired and starting to burn oil, so which one to use?" ...that type question would enable a cogent reply.
Generalizations are the stock in trade for Internet experts. I deal in specifics.
...likely synthetic oil it is known to do best with. But can we assume that is not known? If you feel the question is a trick or lacking integrity, please feel free to offer a specific comparison between dino oil and synthetic oil that you are familiar with.
No, it is known, just not to the general public. Knowing why you do what you do is an exercise in discipline becoming more uncommon all the time. So asking generalized questions about a specific thing is rather disingenuous. Had you phrased your question such as : "My old car's engine is running great and I'm interested in longer drain intervals, so what oil?" or: "My old car is getting tired and starting to burn oil, so which one to use?" ...that type question would enable a cogent reply.
Generalizations are the stock in trade for Internet experts. I deal in specifics.
Originally Posted By: Uber_Archetype
Originally Posted By: revvedup
If 20/50 multi is the preferred regular oil found to do well in a particular engine, how would that translate into a synthetic, weight wise?
You would need to explain why it is "preferred" before a cogent answer to that question could be given.
[censored] answer.
If he "preferred" his 20/50 multi because it came in a square bottle would that change which weight synthetic is comparable?
Originally Posted By: revvedup
If 20/50 multi is the preferred regular oil found to do well in a particular engine, how would that translate into a synthetic, weight wise?
You would need to explain why it is "preferred" before a cogent answer to that question could be given.
[censored] answer.
If he "preferred" his 20/50 multi because it came in a square bottle would that change which weight synthetic is comparable?
I'm definetly not swapping the engine in my car like somebody mentioned the engine runs great now even though it burns some oil, i know a guy that is running a built 320Hp Turbo version of my engine and he swears by M1 15w50 full syn, my original question was if that'd be ok to use in my completely stock engine that specs 20w50, and yes it is the preferred grade for this engine everybody ive asked uses this grade in these engines and i find my engine runs great on it , the only problem is thst M1 is very expensive here , between 44 and 50 Euros for 5 liters but i was stll hoping that i could do 2 year oci with that
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
So yet another oil related question about my Ford Capri , the owner's manual says to change the oil every 6000 Miles or 10000 Km , it takes me about 5 years to cover that distance and it think 5 years is way too long for a mineral oil right?, should i stick to changing it every year?
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
I'm definetly not swapping the engine in my car like somebody mentioned the engine runs great now even though it burns some oil, i know a guy that is running a built 320Hp Turbo version of my engine and he swears by M1 15w50 full syn, my original question was if that'd be ok to use in my completely stock engine that specs 20w50, and yes it is the preferred grade for this engine everybody ive asked uses this grade in these engines and i find my engine runs great on it , the only problem is thst M1 is very expensive here , between 44 and 50 Euros for 5 liters but i was stll hoping that i could do 2 year oci with that
Given that you do about 2,000 KM per year, and M1 15W-50 is A3/B3 rated (min TBN of 8.0), then yes I think you can do a 2 year OCI.
BTW M1 5W-50 is A3/B4 and has a TBN of 11.8
Castrol Edge 10W-60 is also A3/B4 and has a TBN of 11.2
I've used Edge 10W-60 over a low KM two years period before.
So yet another oil related question about my Ford Capri , the owner's manual says to change the oil every 6000 Miles or 10000 Km , it takes me about 5 years to cover that distance and it think 5 years is way too long for a mineral oil right?, should i stick to changing it every year?
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
I'm definetly not swapping the engine in my car like somebody mentioned the engine runs great now even though it burns some oil, i know a guy that is running a built 320Hp Turbo version of my engine and he swears by M1 15w50 full syn, my original question was if that'd be ok to use in my completely stock engine that specs 20w50, and yes it is the preferred grade for this engine everybody ive asked uses this grade in these engines and i find my engine runs great on it , the only problem is thst M1 is very expensive here , between 44 and 50 Euros for 5 liters but i was stll hoping that i could do 2 year oci with that
Given that you do about 2,000 KM per year, and M1 15W-50 is A3/B3 rated (min TBN of 8.0), then yes I think you can do a 2 year OCI.
BTW M1 5W-50 is A3/B4 and has a TBN of 11.8
Castrol Edge 10W-60 is also A3/B4 and has a TBN of 11.2
I've used Edge 10W-60 over a low KM two years period before.
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