VP C9 here (special order). I used to run 100LL, but C9 has a much better distillation curve/Reed vapor pressure for a 2 cycle. I used Champion WP-2 Semi Synthetic 2t based on a number of reviews on various different sites. It's not really that well known from what I can tell. Give it a shot if you haven't, you can buy it online at various sites. Also have tried Lubegard's oil, I prefer Champion because its a much heavier visc (how much that really matters for my usage I have no idea honestly). Both of these oils have very low odor when burning.
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Running 40:1 in a 50:1 world.
- Thread starter oil pan 4
- Start date
I do and run VPracing C9 with VPracing oil 40:1 in a Husky XP576 auto tune no problems whatsoever.Do you have any experience with Husqvarna’s auto tune?
I have a dealer 3 miles away that has just about any fuel in the VP lineup seriously everything on hand. I have been going to her for years she knows what I'm looking for when I walk in amd treats me good I believe last can was 73.00 dollars. I believe few years ago it was about 63.oo per can.VP C9 users, Do you guys have a better source than online? I see VP C9 online for $99 per 5 gallon jug. That’s crazy. I use E0 91 and haven’t had any issues. Last time I got fuel it was ~$4.50 per gallon in the spring.
Just my $0.02
oil pan 4
Thread starter
I use e0 regular unleaded pump gas and red armor.
oil pan 4
Thread starter
No more pop on the first pull, back to several pulls.Go back to 50 :1 and see what happens.
I second this.Why is it the worst? What are you basing this on?
My John Deere chain saw requires 20-1. ( it's 45 years old ) The mix I do, winds up being 16-1. 8 oz of oil to a gallon of gas. I've have run my Stihl weed whipper ( 40-1 ) for a dozen years or so on the 16-1, runs fine. I've just bought a Husqvarna leaf blower and I'm running that on the 16-1. No issues so far.
oil pan 4
Thread starter
Loss of power.I second this.
Loss of rpm.
Slower recovery from a heavy load.
Scorched spark plug.
Clearly runs better on pump gas and redarmor In every way.
Starting or popping on the first pull vs multiple pulls just to get a pop.
And pump gas and redarmor is cheaper.
I have been running 40:1 now for a while with regular ethanol free pump gas and red armor oil.
My echo saws smoke a little bit more if I let them idle for say 20 seconds or more then I get back on the throttle.
Biggest change I noticed is the 60cc echo pops on the first pull most of the time and if I'm quick I can get the 40cc saw to start on the first pull. They never did that with 50:1 and I have had the 40cc echo for 12 years and the 60cc echo for 6 years.
At the start of my forestry career we ran our Homelites and McCullochs* at 16:1. Both engine design/materials and 2 cycle oil have changed tremendously compared to 50 years ago. It seems that your new machines might not benefit running at 16:1? Keep us posted on how that goes.My John Deere chain saw requires 20-1. ( it's 45 years old ) The mix I do, winds up being 16-1. 8 oz of oil to a gallon of gas. I've have run my Stihl weed whipper ( 40-1 ) for a dozen years or so on the 16-1, runs fine. I've just bought a Husqvarna leaf blower and I'm running that on the 16-1. No issues so far.
I also wonder what are the differences of the old oils at 16:1 compared to modern oils at 16:1. Does running the modern oils at 16:1 cause any problems? Anyone know?
* Sigh - remember when these were respected professional brands?
oil pan 4
Thread starter
Echo so yeah.My +20 year old Echo leaf blower runs equally well on 40:1 and 50:1. I have never done a single bit of maintenance on the thing and it just keeps running.
What oil are you using?I can't find any information what to run in my Polaris Xplorer 300 2 stroke as it has oil injection. It sat for a few years so the oil pump lost it's prime. I've been running 32:1 in it. The oil pump primed. The smoke is ridiculous and it doesn't like to idle long before fouling the plug. Runs great, though!
oil pan 4
Thread starter
Yeah there's a difference. When the new synthetic based thicc oils came out they had to create a whole new test series.At the start of my forestry career we ran our Homelites and McCullochs* at 16:1. Both engine design/materials and 2 cycle oil have changed tremendously compared to 50 years ago. It seems that your new machines might not benefit running at 16:1? Keep us posted on how that goes.
I also wonder what are the differences of the old oils at 16:1 compared to modern oils at 16:1. Does running the modern oils at 16:1 cause any problems? Anyone know?
* Sigh - remember when these were respected professional brands?
The old test: they run the engines for some amount of time, tear down the engines and compare them.
The old test on the newest generation of 2 stroke oils: they'd run the standard test and there was virtually no wear and no noticeable difference between the other similar new generation oils.
So to test these new synthetic oils with a bit of detergent they doubled the old test time and came out with the FD standard.
So those old 16:1 McCullochs could run 32:1 FD oil and last longer than the old oil running at 16:1. They could probably run 40:1.
That FD oil is thicc so if I run 32:1 in my saw the exhaust port gets oily and it smokes when I come up on the throttle after it's been idling for a bit. 40:1 is just about perfect.
I'll run 32:1 in the weedeater since it's just held wide open for minutes at a time with very little idle time. Very little smoke, no smoke when warm and little to no exhaust pipe oilyness.
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