RP Max-Gear, 99 Nissan Frontier. So far, no good.

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Getting rid of grinding and protecting a transmission are two different things. I would NEVER use Synchromesh to replace 90wt gear oil EVER. What everone does to wear out their transmission is their business. This is how internet fads start. Let those who use synchromesh in place of gear oil post their UOAs.

To address the 'masses' wanting better shifting transmissions, Nissan switched to 75w85 from the 90wt gear oils. So, if you want to thin the fluid a little at your next service interval, blend 25-50% RedlineMTL/AmsoilMTF to the Redline MT90/Amsoil MTG. This will drop you into the 75w85 range, while using a full synth product. The further north you go, the higher the percentage to thin. If you're along the south coast or border, I would just stick with the 90wt. I would also think that someone in Alaska/Canada(northerners) could get away with straight MTL/MTF since average trans temps is pretty low. Sounds hypocritical, but MTF/MTL are full sythetics. Hows mineral synchromesh going feel when its too cold up north?

Synchromesh should only be used in transmissions that require it. And, for manual-transmissions/xcases/'end that use a simple mineral ATF(like Mercon-DexronII-III), Synchromesh could be considered an upgrade from ATF.

Notchy manual trannies are quite normal. I don't know if this is because of poor quality cost cutting at the OE level, or if there truely an issue with your unit, or the driver. I think that too many people expect their transmission to shift like the 'arcade videogame versions'. They don't.
Truck transmissions normally have long throws. Make sure you don't release the clutch too early. Sometimes it takes a 2nd person to shift for you while you control clutch to see if you're shifting correctly or not rushing a shift. Usually, when I go on a test drive with vehicle with a shifting complaint, I hop into the passenger seat. This confuses the vehicle owner. I make them drive while signalling for clutch operation while I shift like a Brit. This has elimintated 1/2 of those notchy shifting complaints.
Learn to use your fingertips/wrist and not your palm/arm to shift.
Automakers trying to isolate the drivetrain, from the driver, for consumer statistical NVH garbage, are producing poor shift quality.
Make sure your tranny is topped off cold, on a level surface. Make sure the clutch hydraulics(bled), or mecheanicals(adjusted/lubed), are in working order. Grease or replace the ujoints. Inspect drivetrain mounts or if mileage is high, replace them. Look for upgrades to shifters, shifter bushings, linkages, transmission mounts/isolators, engine mounts,......
Make sure that the rugs, carpet, floormats....don't interfere with the clutch pedal movement.

And, a notchy shift doesn't mean the transmissions life will suffer. Using fluid that is too thin, having a fluid level low, not maintaining it, or simply abusing it, are the causes for short transmission life.

Change the gear oil every 30k/biennial for normal commusters. Severe usage should seriously consider 10k/quarterly changes. 200+ mile a day highway only travelling salemen commuters could push the interval to 50k/yearly.
 
In the case of my tranny,I`ve replaced all of the hydraulics,complete clutch kit,and pilot. Slave cylinder movement is right on the money. It`s probably like the engineer at Tremec said,poor quality control on Nissan`s part,and poor customer service by hiding where they`re getting their transmissions from.

For some reason Z32 trannies seem to have a famous 1st to 2nd gear shift issue. Could it be a lubrication issue between those 2 particular gears,not allowing 1st and 2nd to synch up properly?

I`ve owned manual tranny cars all my life and none of the others have ever had any tranny issues whatsoever (3000GT,Ford Escort,280Z,60s era Jeep at our hunting lease,and an old Mazda truck at the hunting lease). My best friend had a `96 Mustang GT (with the Tremec 5 speed) and he drove that car to 300K miles and never had a tranny issue.

In my opinion,it`s poor quality control with Nissan`s mystery tranny company.
 
Hey Stephen does your Nissan`s manual tranny get really stiff and notchy when it`s good and hot?......like say after you`ve been driving for an hour or so? That`s the way mine gets. The shifter gets harder to move and latter shifts (3rd-5th) get really notchy/grindy.
 
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does your Nissan`s manual tranny get really stiff and notchy when it`s good and hot?




Nope. It is just a little rough when it is cold and not-so smooth when hot. The shifting is best when it's hot. This is the way all my manuals have been.

Also, my truck doesn't shift really poorly. I don't think there is a problem with it. It just isn't that smooth. I'm not expecting high-performance shifts from my truck transmission. Now I'm just used to how it shifts.

I wonder if people who drive FWD cars with manuals doen't get as much feeling through the shifter because of the rods or cables? In my truck the shifter goes right into the trans, transmitting all of the vibrations.
 
You also can not compare a truck transmission with internal linkage to a cable shifted FWD car trans. Anytime you have a cable between the transmission and the shifter they feel like fecal excriment. Not the word I really wanted to use but you get the idea!!My 2003 Carmy feel's smooth compared to an Eaton 10 speed transmission in a comerical truck but suck's compared to any Asin Toyota Truck transmission I have ever owned.

Also vechile's are being built not with global market in mind and in a lot of countryies positive dentent at the end of each gate is considered a plus. I was reading a review a few year's ago from an Indian car magizine and what we would call notchy and complain about they were praiseing. Personely I could care less how smooth myshifts are so long as any notchiness is not being caused by the fluid being used. Positive shift's that are quick and precise are fine by me. Sure no one like a rubbery or notchy shift feel but as long as the trany hold's up I can live with everything else.

In fact when Toyota redesinged the Hilux to the Tacoma in 1995.5 model year one of the drastic difference's was the transmission. The gate's are spaced closer together then past transmissions, the throw's are shorter and more precise but they are also a bit notchy. that is that positive detent that the rest of the deveolping nation's seems to love but we inthe USA seem to hate.
 
Would overy-thick gear oils cause notchy shifting? I Googled manual transmission fluid and I found a post that said if the gear oil is too thick,it can`t be dispersed through the gears/synchros therefore causing poor shiftability and lubrication.

Here`s a question for unDummy,what`s different in the construction of the Tremec T5 that allows them to run hundreds of thousands of miles with ATF as a fluid fill? Are they just really well made and engineered? You really seem to be extremely educated on transmission science. Thank you for all your responses.

I`m determined to learn as much as I can about manual trannies
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The T5 has a history of upgrades. I wouldn't call its long life a result of ATF. Its simply stronger then most engines bolted to it. Anyone with a modded older v8 mustang will say just the opposite. Early ones can be broken easily. Upgrades, and swaps dumping the T5, are pretty common.

Automakers aren't in the business to build indestructible vehicles. If using a thinner fluids improves the shift feel, or speeds up the shift, or improves MPG(CAFE), and the unit still lives long enough past the warranty period, then why not?

I don't see ANY transmission as over or well engineered. They are all made to budget.

Concerning Nissans budget, what years were they struggling? what years did they slowly kill of they enthusiast vehicles? what year did Renault step in? what year did they rebound? when did the 350 come back out? how long did it take for Nissan to get the 6-speed ironed out?

BTW, some of the notchiness in the shift is to force postiive engagement. I think that johnbrowning covers the comparison well. Maybe drivers-ed should include manual transmission training using commercial vehicles? This way, we won't expect 'videogame shifter' shifts out of our daily drivers.

If you're grinding shifts, you have an issue that needs fixing. I've already covered that for you in other threads. You have a bum transmission. Hopefully your new piece is better.
 
I used to own a 1990 Toyota 4Runner V6 with 5 speed, it also called for a GL-4. Fortunately I had an uncle who was a long haul trucker, and he let me "borrow" a pail of Mobil SHC 50, which met the heavy duty GL-4 specs

It's a bit confusing that with heavy duty equipment, most transmission fluids have viscosity rated to SAE engine specs, such as SAE 50 motor oil.

A synthetic GL-4 50, such as Mobil Delvac 50, has very low pour points and works well in transmission designed for GL-4 oils.

I did yearly gear oil and transmission fluid changes in that Toytoa, it racked up 329,000 km with "still new" shift feel

If you chose to use a commercial product, keep in mind they usually only sell by the pail.
 
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Concerning Nissans budget, what years were they struggling? what years did they slowly kill of they enthusiast vehicles? what year did Renault step in? what year did they rebound? when did the 350 come back out? how long did it take for Nissan to get the 6-speed ironed out?





Agree with this statement, that '96 Z was right in the thick of Nissan's problem era. I don't think you can hammer on them too much now considering the auto world as it stands, seem to be making a lot of stuff people like and the reliability is not too bad either.

My '06 Frontier has the 6 spd and I'm running Redline MTL/MT-90 in a 50/50 blend. It still struggles a little upon the first couple of shifts in sub-freezing temps but is quite smooth everywhere else. Stephen, might want to give it a try.
 
With all the talk about fluid blends (several people on Z forums are doing this as well) maybe I should consider that also. I have 3 quarts of RP Synchromax and 1 quart of RP Max Gear 75W90 in my stash. I`m considering 2 quarts Synchromax and 1 quart Max Gear (tranny holds 3 quarts of fluid). Plus I don`t necessarily trust the fluid that the dealer is going to fill it with. What if they end up just slapping some 75W90 GL5 rear differential fluid in there? That`s my biggest fear...........do they even know the difference,and are the new cars these days requiring any use of a GL4 fluid (just makes me wonder if the "bulk gear oil" they keep on hand is all rear diff GL5)?

Yep,I`m always VERYYYYYYYYY suspicious of anyone who touches my car except me. If only my house had a garage,I`d do the entire tranny install myself.

Now if I could only find out for sure who`s making these "factory new" 98+ spec 300ZX manual transmissions.
 
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What if they end up just slapping some 75W90 GL5 rear differential fluid in there? That`s my biggest fear...........do they even know the difference,and are the new cars these days requiring any use of a GL4 fluid (just makes me wonder if the "bulk gear oil" they keep on hand is all rear diff GL5)?





I could just about bet money that's what they'd do. I called my local dealer and asked them if they had the factory Nissan 75w85 GL4 for my truck and they said "ahh, you don't need that expensive stuff, just use some 75w-90 like we re-fill with". They use Quaker State. Try the blend if you'd like. I blended the MTL/MT-90 because it gave me around a 85w which is what my manual calls for.
 
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I could just about bet money that's what they'd do.




I'll also make that bet. There is no way a dealer is going to keep stock of 3-4 different gear lubes, transmission lubes, oils, etc.

Like most large scale lube systems, they use tote bins for bulk storage. A central dispensing system is used to pump whatever lube the tech needs.

That system works well in a very large HD shop, say a service shop for a large mining or oil field operation, like the Tar Sands. They use separate bulk dispensing systems for diesel engine oil, transmission fluid, grease, and gear lube

There are a couple of things I would check with a dealer bulk lube system. First, and this is VERY important, what sort of filter are they using on the tote bin vent?

If it's just an inverted pipe with a screen to keep mice out, BZZZT never let them touch your car.

Normal temperature changes, in addition to dust in the air, will draw in moisture and dirt, which will quickly contaminate the entire dispensing system. The car will probably last the warranty, then "TFB you're SOL so KMA" is the usual response.

Look for a dessicant filter system on the tote bin. I've only seen them used in very large mining, pulp, and oilfield operations. I have yet to see a regular car dealer bother with one

The second thing I would check is the actual quality of the bulk lube. Most of them source the absolute Low Bidder bulk stuff, like Mystery Oil In A Large Bin.

I had strange used oil analysis results from a previous Toyota car, and managed to get a virgin sample of the dealer lube oil. It turned out to be very poor quality motor oil, contaminated with moisture and dirt.

I called a bulk lube place near Winnipeg that carries Esso and Mobil lubes. They had many different GL-4 rated gear lubes to pick from. I know from my experience with my 1990 4Runner that a commercial GL-4 gear lube worked great, summer and winter.

Too bad the smallest container was a 20 litre / 5 gal pail. Though they had a great deal on a 200 litre tote bin!
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I blended the MTL/MT-90 because it gave me around a 85w which is what my manual calls for.




As a quick note, according to my Esso Lubrication Handbook, a commercial heavy duty GL-4 50 lube has approximately the same running temperature viscosity as a 85-95 gear lube.

Commercial heavy duty GL-4 lubes are often rated in motor oil viscosity, such as SAE 50. This is due to heavy duty transmissions originally specifying a SAE 50 motor oil.

An "arctic" GL-4 lube is often comparable to a 10W-30 motor oil
 
Penzoil synchromesh is available at autozone for $4.99 qt. and for $5.99 qt. at pepboys here in the Denver area. My tranny specifies a synchromesh, and I chose rp synchromax($9.99 qt. pepboys). The results were outstanding. Much smoother shifting and synchro engagement over the penz/mopar factory fill. I would try it...
 
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What if they end up just slapping some 75W90 GL5 rear differential fluid in there? That`s my biggest fear...........do they even know the difference,and are the new cars these days requiring any use of a GL4 fluid (just makes me wonder if the "bulk gear oil" they keep on hand is all rear diff GL5)?





I could just about bet money that's what they'd do. I called my local dealer and asked them if they had the factory Nissan 75w85 GL4 for my truck and they said "ahh, you don't need that expensive stuff, just use some 75w-90 like we re-fill with". They use Quaker State. Try the blend if you'd like. I blended the MTL/MT-90 because it gave me around a 85w which is what my manual calls for.




Man,I bet we`re all right on the money on that one! They say a GL5 gear oil will make a manual tranny grind and destroy the synchros. Plus the dealer that did my install said he "filled my new tranny" up with their gear oil (lord only knows with what!). And my new tranny has that notorious 1st to 2nd gear crunch unless I rev-match. Sooooo,on a hunch and for peace of mind,I went to Oreilly`s last week and grabbed some Synchromax and Max Gear to put in my new tranny once it arrives(replaced under warranty). As soon as I get my car home from the dealer,I`m filling it with some decent fluid.
 



Man,I bet we`re all right on the money on that one! They say a GL5 gear oil will make a manual tranny grind and destroy the synchros. Plus the dealer that did my install said he "filled my new tranny" up with their gear oil (lord only knows with what!). And my new tranny has that notorious 1st to 2nd gear crunch unless I rev-match. Sooooo,on a hunch and for peace of mind,I went to Oreilly`s last week and grabbed some Synchromax and Max Gear to put in my new tranny once it arrives(replaced under warranty). As soon as I get my car home from the dealer,I`m filling it with some decent fluid.




I would let the new replacement tranny wear in with the factory fluid for 1K miles before switching to the Synchromax.
 
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