Royal purple
- Thread starter Orangepeel
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2022
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- 383
Is lower NOACK better?
Yes lower the better in theory. "Generally" speaking under 10% is where you want to be.
- Joined
- May 28, 2014
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- 2,515
I talked to a tech from RP a couple years ago. He said noack is in the 10% range. Either way, I've never had issues.
That's what I was told too. I have a feeling something was up with this test or particular formulation at the time. Kind of hard to believe that an oil of that quality level would have a Noack that high. I suppose it's possible though.
I just did an oil change to Royal Purple almost by accident since the Mobil 1 0w-40 I was looking for , or the 0w-30 Catrol was not in stock at Ramstein PX and I could not find any other 0w-XX oils for this winter in this Germany at the PX.
German parts stores fetaured oils I was not familiar with at all.
So i stuck with the PX.
But I did see RP 0w-40, at the PX at a very fair price too, so I bought it.
First impression; engine starts up smoother than on cold start ups, sounds subjectively "better".
Is that scientific?
No.
It's its certainly not a bad thing, so maybe this synerlec "engine parts coating" is the real deal and not snake oil after all.
Certainly seems that way.
German parts stores fetaured oils I was not familiar with at all.
So i stuck with the PX.
But I did see RP 0w-40, at the PX at a very fair price too, so I bought it.
First impression; engine starts up smoother than on cold start ups, sounds subjectively "better".
Is that scientific?
No.
It's its certainly not a bad thing, so maybe this synerlec "engine parts coating" is the real deal and not snake oil after all.
Certainly seems that way.
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2024
- Messages
- 468
How long does it take for the purple hue to disappear?
I do not know Sir.
Its my first fill with RP and the oil change is less than 100 miles ago or so.
PS: Sorry for my typos in previous post. It was middle of night here and the "edit" button disappears too fast
Patman
Staff member
When I ran it a couple of times (almost 20 years ago) I noticed that it wasn’t purple at all when I immediately checked the dipstick right after the oil change was done.
I use their HPS oil, if you buy it in the 5 gal pale the price per Qt is much more tolerable.
Also use their Syncromax in a 6060 Tremec.
The shelf stuff at walmart isn't anything extraordinary, except the price.
Also use their Syncromax in a 6060 Tremec.
The shelf stuff at walmart isn't anything extraordinary, except the price.
About 1000 miles for me
seems to go from purple to clear, to dirty
I just used their Hps 5-20 in our 18 rogue that calls for 0w20. First impression is, it’s very smooth in the engine. I bought two case for $120 which seems more than fair. We’ll see how it acts in a few k and how mpg does, but so far so good.
in my experience it goes away quick within 500 miles, and turns clear, then like all other oil a dark brown after use.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
I only ever used the HPM (marine) based on a boat “expert” video … and with yearly changes there was a slight purple tint - mostly brown … It was NMMA approved - so was not concerned …
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2024
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- 598
I have sorta tangentially commented on RP in my first thread, here:
The short story is - I have fed two consecutive Hyundai 3.3 V6 engines on long wheel base Santa Fe models, a 2013 and a mostly identical 2017 one, exclusively on Royal Purple, from new.
While the 2013 was a lease which we returned at 38k miles, the 2017 was bought new and is driven to this day, at 127k+ now. So while I can say little about the 2013, I can talk about the 2017.
The car was fed exclusively - and I mean - ONLY on RP. For a number of reasons, the main one being that RP ended up on the short list of oil brands that I considered worth using when doing my research, that it was available at my local carwash (which is also an oil changing place with the same guys working there since I started visiting in 2013). The service is good, I've been watching them through the glass bay every time. So all in all, it is my go to place.
The RP I have always used is whatever RP full synthetic they have in stock (it's the only one in their full synthetic package). Possibly this one:
Although I don't remember seeing a Dexos 1 label on it. Then again, I haven't tracked every single label change throughout the years. Also, to be clear - definitely not HPS.
Long story short - RP from new, 5k OCI. New York City daily driving till 80k-ish miles. More suburbia after that, but I still return to the same place for my oil changes.
The car has been going through about 1qt of oil / 1000 miles with clock-like precision, since 70k-ish miles (that I know of, that's when I noticed. Could have started earlier). My oil dipstick has always had varnish on it. Bottom of oil filler cap has always had varnish on it. By "always" I mean since I started paying real attention at the abovementioned 70k-ish.
I have to add that this engine's oil dipstick is not the best I've dealt with. It's smooth, non-serrated, and with the varnish on it reading levels is an exercise in self-control.
Anywhow - I have always given the oil the benefit of the doubt all that time. I got a Blackstone Labs analysis at 100k miles, which found nothing wrong and everything within specs.
But seeing the varnish disappear from the dipstick in about 500 miles after adding 1qt of VRP to the remaining 5qts of RP (see linked thread) after my last oil change, and seeing my car keeping the same oil level or almost during the last 1k miles (after having gradually gone through a total of about 4qts of VRP that were added 1qt at the time at 1000 miles intervals and diluted in the existing RP), I have to consider that this is the first time I see a positive difference, and that it is not thanks to RP.
So - not saying it's RP's fault that I got coked up rings (if that's what it was, not 100% sure yet), but if it was coked up rings indeed and it's not RP's fault - I don't know whose fault it was
.
Cheers.
The short story is - I have fed two consecutive Hyundai 3.3 V6 engines on long wheel base Santa Fe models, a 2013 and a mostly identical 2017 one, exclusively on Royal Purple, from new.
While the 2013 was a lease which we returned at 38k miles, the 2017 was bought new and is driven to this day, at 127k+ now. So while I can say little about the 2013, I can talk about the 2017.
The car was fed exclusively - and I mean - ONLY on RP. For a number of reasons, the main one being that RP ended up on the short list of oil brands that I considered worth using when doing my research, that it was available at my local carwash (which is also an oil changing place with the same guys working there since I started visiting in 2013). The service is good, I've been watching them through the glass bay every time. So all in all, it is my go to place.
The RP I have always used is whatever RP full synthetic they have in stock (it's the only one in their full synthetic package). Possibly this one:
Although I don't remember seeing a Dexos 1 label on it. Then again, I haven't tracked every single label change throughout the years. Also, to be clear - definitely not HPS.
Long story short - RP from new, 5k OCI. New York City daily driving till 80k-ish miles. More suburbia after that, but I still return to the same place for my oil changes.
The car has been going through about 1qt of oil / 1000 miles with clock-like precision, since 70k-ish miles (that I know of, that's when I noticed. Could have started earlier). My oil dipstick has always had varnish on it. Bottom of oil filler cap has always had varnish on it. By "always" I mean since I started paying real attention at the abovementioned 70k-ish.
I have to add that this engine's oil dipstick is not the best I've dealt with. It's smooth, non-serrated, and with the varnish on it reading levels is an exercise in self-control.
Anywhow - I have always given the oil the benefit of the doubt all that time. I got a Blackstone Labs analysis at 100k miles, which found nothing wrong and everything within specs.
But seeing the varnish disappear from the dipstick in about 500 miles after adding 1qt of VRP to the remaining 5qts of RP (see linked thread) after my last oil change, and seeing my car keeping the same oil level or almost during the last 1k miles (after having gradually gone through a total of about 4qts of VRP that were added 1qt at the time at 1000 miles intervals and diluted in the existing RP), I have to consider that this is the first time I see a positive difference, and that it is not thanks to RP.
So - not saying it's RP's fault that I got coked up rings (if that's what it was, not 100% sure yet), but if it was coked up rings indeed and it's not RP's fault - I don't know whose fault it was
.Cheers.
Last edited:
Hps 5w20= 7.9. I’ve never paid attention to noack but that’s pretty good. I’ve always used 0w20 so I’m a little Leary of 5w20. Even if it’s a small difference.
I ran a few changes of RP 5w-30 many years ago in a 2001 F150 with low mileage at the time. At each change the engine sounded great, quiet and peppy. Within 500 miles it returned to its normal sounds (ticking and louder when running). I suspected it sheared and it certainly did. I sampled and sent to Blackstone and it sheared significantly. Can't remember the specific numbers at the moment. But this was many years ago.
I'd try it again, but there are so many good oils and brands, that its unlikely I will.
I'd try it again, but there are so many good oils and brands, that its unlikely I will.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2024
- Messages
- 598
This ^^^
This, this this this.
Except on mine it's like - the next day. Or almost.
Possibly - once the purple wears off and only the Royal remains
The Walmart stuff is probably just “run of the mill” oil, I’d assume. I’d also assume that with HPS and even HMX that you’re getting something a little better? I noticed they just came out with HMX in 0w20 as opposed to HPS is only 5w20. My oci is going to be 5-10k on the OLM so I’m not being extreme with this stuff by any means.
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