Reading some old posts, via kschachn search engine above, it looks like "Synerlec" is a sulphated ester that bonds to the metal surface of the engine.
Royal purple
- Thread starter Orangepeel
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The old stories of hitting a rock and draining the oil yet the engine keeps running are as old as motor oil itself. Not only motor oil, but large numbers of questionable additives make a similar claim. Heck there’s even a commercial of one brand where they drain the oil out and the engine is still running. The truth is that this is not something attributable to some “super brand” that has some magical property that no other motor oil has. Engines will run for quite a bit of time without oil due to the persistent oil film. Operating conditions including RPM and load will dictate the interval and it can be in the tens of minutes or longer.
Triple_Se7en
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PM me and I'll tell ya"
Triple_Se7en
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I was & am still planning on using my 12 quarts remaining Amsoil Euro 0w30.
My Hyundai engine seems to like just about any oil and any viscosity I throw at it (0w20 to 5w40).
It would probably salivate it's pleasure, if I fed it Royal Purple too.
I would suggest you with Kia engines to not go lower than 30W.
burbguy82
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I completely agree with you. I was once at a local fair, and one of the games was they drained all the oil out of an old car, then started it and put a brick on the accelerator. Prize went to the person who guessed how long it would last. It went for ages, 10's of minutes, most of the crowd had walked off bored before it stopped. It didn't go out with a bang, rather it just went slower and slower until it just stopped.
Not a controlled scientific experiment, but I still think that in such cases, a friction modifier in the previous oil that would bond to the metal surface, like synerlec or molybdenum disulphide, would have made it last even longer.
Still oil is designed around being there, not being missing, so we are talking extremely unlikely situations.
Here is a link to an ancient (2006) edition of a Australian muscle car magazine where they test various oils with a one armed bandit. Completely unscientific test of oils, that ignores many important factors like TBN to control acid levels or dispersants to control soot, etc.
Yet in terms of pure friction and the size of the wear scar produced, the Royal Purple with Synerlec performed very well.
I remember when this article came out, everyone was talking about it, and making photocopies of it. It cemented the Australian love for Penrite synthetics, and suddenly every shop was selling out of Valvoline DuraBlend.
Yet in terms of pure friction and the size of the wear scar produced, the Royal Purple with Synerlec performed very well.
I remember when this article came out, everyone was talking about it, and making photocopies of it. It cemented the Australian love for Penrite synthetics, and suddenly every shop was selling out of Valvoline DuraBlend.
Royal Purple has likely changed over the years. No idea what their products are like these days. The HPS line looks good. They mention high solvency of their oils and keeping engines clean quite a bit.
This is kind of interesting - the 5w30 has a VI of 191 and a HT/HS of 3.8.
This is kind of interesting - the 5w30 has a VI of 191 and a HT/HS of 3.8.
Patman
Staff member
That is an impressive HTHS for a 5w30, I gotta give them props there
burbguy82
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What would contribute to such a thing?
Curious about that, too. I think the only non-euro 5w30 oil that comes close is Valvoline Ep, I think.
Things that come to mind:
Very shear stable VII
mPAO
typo
Pour point suggests group III. Maybe AN?
4WD
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CCS is not too shabby either …
I’ve used RP 0w20 api and Pennzoil and Valvoline, all were tested at BS at around the same mileage. RP came back the best of the bunch it stayed in grade more and still had a high TBN number. Is it better than M1 ep which is in my car now I don’t know. I would use it again I just wish the price was a little lower.
