Royal Purple (mostly) 10w30 in 02 WRX 3100 miles

[Santo Fontana]

This was actually a mix of 3 quarts RP 10w30, a quart of Amsoil ASL 5w30 and the rest Castrol Syntec 10w40.

Amsoil oil filter SDF20 and K&N drop in air filter were used

33,000 miles on the car at the time oil in use for 3100 miles over the summer.

I cleaned and re-oiled my K&N about 500 miles into this interval. I also drove the car hard through about 100 miles worth of dirt trails in the north Maine woods.

I took some long trips too.

I know my car runs rich stock, especially under boost, could that be the reason there is some fuel? I dont idle too much and dont drive in traffic or in the city very often either.


aluminum...3
chromium...1
iron.......7
copper.....2
lead.......0
tin........0
moly.......92
nickel.....0
manganese..0
silver.....0
titanium...0
potassium..0
boron......26
silicon....4
sodium.....3
calcium....2161
magnesium..63
phosphorus.862
zinc.......946
barium.....0

sus vis @ 210f.....64.0
flashpoint.........340f (should be >370)
fuel...............1.5
antifreeze.........0
water..............0
insolubles.........0.2

Any comments appreciated.

 

[Jay]

We get so many conflicting reports from K&N air-filter users. You have good wear numbers and very low silicon and yet you're using a freshly cleaned K&N filter in a vehicle that you offroad?

I wonder why the big disparity in results from K&N users?

 

[Leo]

Thats nice some numbers. But why so many different oils? Hehe And the fuel is very likely to have come from boosting. All turbo engines run real rich stock, which will contribute majorly to the fuel content of the oil. Best thing to do is lean it safely out with an Apexi SAFC or similar, and you'll get more power and less bore wash to boot.

And this may be a dumb question, but most jap engines these days are all aluminium, so where does the Fe come from???

 

[Al]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Leo:
And this may be a dumb question, but most jap engines these days are all aluminium, so where does the Fe come from???

---

Very few are all aluminum. Other sourcesan, crank, rods,cyl (sleeved) cam shafts, lobes, chains, gears..it goes on and on even in an "all aluminum" engine.

Great report and the fuel is not out of control

 

[Bror Jace]

I think the key with K&N filters is to oil the heck out of 'em. Even once per year ... even if you don't clean it at the time.

The iron comes from cams and other valvetrain components not to mention iron cylinder liners.

Not a bad report but with so many different oils, not much we can draw from it ... except backyard blending isn't necessarily bad and WRXs are remarkably easy on oil ... or at least oil tolerant.

Not being a WRXen, I can't help you with your fuel problem. Please consult a WRX guru for advice.

--- Bror Jace

 

[Spector]

Nice numbers but unless someone wishes to replicate the formula/(combination of weights and brands) it is not of much use in determing which oil and weight may be good for this particular engine.

Where do you go from here on the next batch of oil?

 

[Santo Fontana]

[We get so many conflicting reports from K&N air-filter users. You have good wear numbers and very low silicon and yet you're using a freshly cleaned K&N filter in a vehicle that you offroad?

I wonder why the big disparity in results from K&N users? ]


It is weird, I was expecting worse results. All I can say to people with K&Ns that arent performing well is to check your seals. It was a little bit of a pain to make sure mine was sealed well in the box. Also I think those FIPK kits are garbage. I know someone who has one and you can push the filter down and it causes a leak at the throttle body. I imagine over bumps it is constantly leaking. The brackets that came with the kit werent strong enough to hold it.

[Thats nice some numbers. But why so many different oils? Hehe And the fuel is very likely to have come from boosting. All turbo engines run real rich stock, which will contribute majorly to the fuel content of the oil. Best thing to do is lean it safely out with an Apexi SAFC or similar, and you'll get more power and less bore wash to boot.]

Why so many oils: Its what I had at the time

I am currently deciding on either a UTEC or a reflash, I heard SAFCs dont work too good on this car.

[Nice numbers but unless someone wishes to replicate the formula/(combination of weights and brands) it is not of much use in determing which oil and weight may be good for this particular engine.

Where do you go from here on the next batch of oil? ]

Amsoil 5w30 in there now for the winter. Im going to do UOAs on a few different oils and weights and hopefully stick with one in the end.

Obviously this UOA doent tell YOU much about the oil, but it tells ME something about my engine, and I decided to share, sorry I couldnt help you guys out any more.

 

[Santo Fontana]

Couple more comments.

One of the main reasons why I did this UOA is to test my freshly cleaned K&N. You guys had me wanting to throw it away!

So, in my mind at least, I dispelled the K&N myth, and dispelled the additive clash when mixing oil rumor (though Im sure theres some thruth to it, it didnt seem to hurt my motor).

Also, If I went by engine noise at all, I dont think I would use the RP again, my motor sounds much better with the ASL in it, especially at start up. (I have done changes with 100% RP before)