Rounded off bolt help

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Jun 11, 2003
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Hedgesville, WV
I was going to do a transmission fluid and filter change today so I put the truck up on ramps and slid underneath. I took the first 3 bolts out with a bit of trouble because the heads were rusted but the 4th rounded off. After a few choice words I slid out and got my sets of extractors. The first one I tried was an 8mm spline type but it got no bite so I pulled out the flank bite sockets and it rounded worse. I did not let it go all the way over because I could tell it was not going to work so I finally ended up with the reverse twist lock type and that made a perfect round head. I skipped the to rest of the bolts and every single one was rusted and rounding so I just hammered the twist style on and got all of them off but 1 more. I went back and replaced all the bolts with new ones as I worked on the 2 that would not budge. As you might expect I made a mess of 1. I tried cutting a slot in the head for an impact driver and it just made a security screw out of it. You know the kind with a ramp. Then I ground 2 flats on it but I could not get an open end wrench in because of the pan on one side and a flange on the other so I tried clamping vise grips on it nose up and and as expected they just slid around and bugger everything up. Then I ground the head flat and center punched it and tried a left hand drill bit but that did not work and started moving off center so I got the ez outs in the hole and it tore the head off but left the bolt in the hole. I have 1 more to try and get out and thought I would ask if anyone has any ideas that I did not already try on the first. I cant put a torch in there but I did put a big 150 watt soldering iron on the head of the first to get it warmed up, I did not try penetrating oil because the bolts already had a coating of transmission fluid on them from the crap job the dealer did when they changed it last time. They pushed Black permatex into all the threads which is why I think I am having so much trouble. I found a set of reverse biting sockets on Amazon for removing studs and it has 7, 7.2, 7.5 and 7.8 mm but it costs $79. I may just order them. It wont stop me from having to finish drill and plug the first hole but maybe they will get the 2nd one out.
 
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I don't mean to be rude, but that paragraph is a tough read. If you could edit the post and maybe separate it a bit, I think folks would have an easier time reading it and be able to help you better. I had to re-read it a few times. From what I can tell, if you have a rounded off bolt and there is room, I would try welding an oversize nut on. The heat from the weld also helps loosen it up.
 
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I've welded nuts on sheared bolts before, but not in an aluminum case. i don't know if thats ok. Tig1 or Trav or Clinebarger would know.
 
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samven

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Sorry about the formatting, I tried to use punctuation. I only have a stick welder and a Mig machine but I am worried about the TCU and any other electronics in there. Is there a possibility of frying anything. Thanks. Oh its a Dodge Ram 5-45.
 
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Originally Posted by samven
Sorry about the formatting, I tried to use punctuation. I only have a stick welder and a Mig machine but I am worried about the TCU and any other electronics in there. Is there a possibility of frying anything. Thanks. Oh its a Dodge Ram 5-45.
No man, that's ok. I absolutely understand your frustration. That's a tough repair! I've zapped nuts on studs with MIG and stick. Stick works surprisingly well. On the Ford 5.4 engines I've done head studs on, I've disconnected the battery as a precaution. I have used two car batteries using 7018 3/32" rod to repair Jeeps out in Moab. I disconnected the battery in those cases too. In the time I owned a shop, I've never had any computer issues as the result of welding repairs.
 

samven

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Hedgesville, WV
Thanks, I will drag the welder out tomorrow. This would not be half so bad on a lift but on your back with the pan 6" above your nose its hard to focus or move.
 
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At least it will be dry. Most of my off road tomfoolery repairs were done laying on the ground in a puddle. Good luck getting that sucka out!
 
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Originally Posted by spasm3
I've welded nuts on sheared bolts before, but not in an aluminum case. i don't know if thats ok. Tig1 or Trav or Clinebarger would know.
Originally Posted by Zaedock
I've welded nut's to broken studs on aluminum heads without issue. Shops do it all the time.
There you go!
 
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Joined
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Nice at least you have a welder. Most times it seems when bitog suggests to weld on a nut the person doesn't have a welder. I would absolutely weld on a nut. I have done it plenty of times and the heat from welding really helps.
 
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Been there. Think of the time investment vs reward of fighting to extract a bimetal corrosion fused rusty bolt. Personally I grind it flush, drill, tap oversize, and go with a larger bolt. Drill the pan hole if necessary.
 
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I had a oil pan drain plug rounded off(quick lube place) to remove on my sons 2008 Ranger. I welded a nut to the head and it came right out. [Linked Image]
 
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Originally Posted by tig1
I had a oil pan drain plug rounded off(quick lube place) to remove on my sons 2008 Ranger. I welded a nut to the head and it came right out. [Linked Image]
thumbsup
 
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Originally Posted by atikovi
Just forget about it and use rtv instead of a pan gasket. It will seal better with 2 missing bolts than a pan gasket with all the bolts.
I would have to agree, after trying to remove early 80's Chevy valve covers held on with 4 bolts, and blue RTV from the factory.
 
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Joined
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Originally Posted by atikovi
Just forget about it and use rtv instead of a pan gasket. It will seal better with 2 missing bolts than a pan gasket with all the bolts.
Fix it right or let someone else do the job, this sort of hack is no way to do repairs.
 
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