Rotella T6 v Mobil 1 HM

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Cmarti

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Longtime Rotella fan, I have used it in everything air cooled and even a Gold Wing. I bought 5 quart bottle of Mobil 1 High Milage after good luck with it in an ATV that weeped Rotella from the lower jug. I am trying it in a Deere riding mower. (A Lowes special with the B & S)

I like to keep a couple of jugs of the same oil in the barn for all my non auto/motorcycle apps. Mowers, riders, ATV's, tiller, snowblower, Generator. Anyone think of a downside to the Mobil 1 High Mileage?
 
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
Anyone think of a downside to the Mobil 1 High Mileage?

Nope..


nope!!
 
Originally Posted By: electrolover
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
Anyone think of a downside to the Mobil 1 High Mileage?

Nope..


nope!!


Nope..
 
If you spend some time in the used oil analysis section you'll quickly see the Mobil 1 High Mileage line is a robust well built oil, it has a API SL rating with means it has a strong additive package and being a synthetic of course it'll work perfect for hot running OPE/wet clutch MC usage.
 
One possible downside is that Mobil 1 High Mileage is SL rated and therefore doesn't meet the spec for newer vehicles.
 
Originally Posted By: Danh
One possible downside is that Mobil 1 High Mileage is SL rated and therefore doesn't meet the spec for newer vehicles.


Thanks guys, just wanted to be sure I was not missing something obvious. I will be using it in air cooled small engines or an ATV.

Why change? My head tells me oil doesn't matter, but my OCD has me try new things. Cost, availability, drips from old equipment on my new concrete floor, led me to pick up something other than the Rotella this time. I had a reduction in oil leaks when I used it in the ATV, and thought I would try it in other equipment.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: electrolover
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
Anyone think of a downside to the Mobil 1 High Mileage?

Nope..


nope!!


Nope..


Nope..:)
 
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
personally i think any syn in an aircooled engine on ope is a waste



just curious,why do you believe that? Because I was thinking about going from GC to Pennzoil Conventional 10w30 in my Cub Cadet.
 
years of running sae30 as most all ope engines have speced over the years and never an issue, i personally use Valvoline SAE 30 conventional, i do believe some engine manufactures are now saying multi grade syn is ok to use. i dont think it protects any better in these engines and have seen it/had customers use it and it actually in some cases allowed for consumption whereas when using conventional oil no consuption was noted. i do read alot of ppl down here using 15w40 hdeo and their satisfied, also read ppl using syn and being satisfied, but to sum it up i see it as a waste and believe sae30 is more shear stable than multi grade, thats more important to me. if it were a colder climate/winter i would run 10w30 conventional.
 
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Thanks.thats what the Kohler Courage calls for 10W30.I`m going to give it a try. (the v-twin) not the one Lunger.
 
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Originally Posted By: lexus114
Thanks.thats what the Kohler Courage calls for 10W30.I`m going to give it a try. (the v-twin) not the one Lunger.

sounds good, youll have to excuse me, i have a tendency of always saying sae30 as that is what i use as my engines spec it. but if the courage is speced 10w30 thats what id use. my actual point was in my opinion syn is a waste in ope. you wont be disapointed in chosing Pennzoil conventional over the gc and your wallet will thank you
 
I usually feel that synthetic is not needed for OPE, especially an engine with no spin-on, full-flow oil filter.

However, some OPE runs super hot. So, if you are performing a torture test (intended or not) on an engine, a synthetic may be in order ... just don't go to long on an application with no filter.

Decades ago, we had a Honda ATC 200E Big Red. I ran this thing pretty hard on some days. I was using a mix of some oil (unknown mineral maybe SAE 30, 10W40 or 20W-50) and about 25% STP oil treatment. At the end of a SINGLE day, I checked the oil and this heavy concoction stuff dripped off the little dipstick like it was water. That showed me how hot these little engines run and how hard they can be on oil.

For this reason, I doubt I would ever use a conventional 10w30 PCMO in an OPE unless it was a fairly mild application.

Anyway, I gave up on STP at that point and at some time later I switched it over to Schaeffer 15w40 synthetic blend. The machine still runs well (recently needed some carb work) but I havem't been back to Dad's to ride it in years.

I don't think you'll notice a difference between a 10w30 synthetic HDEO and Mobil 1 (either HM or EP). I just can't recommend their 'vanilla' for strenuous applications.
 
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
years of running sae30 as most all ope engines have speced over the years and never an issue, i personally use Valvoline SAE 30 conventional, i do believe some engine manufactures are now saying multi grade syn is ok to use. i dont think it protects any better in these engines and have seen it/had customers use it and it actually in some cases allowed for consumption whereas when using conventional oil no consuption was noted. i do read alot of ppl down here using 15w40 hdeo and their satisfied, also read ppl using syn and being satisfied, but to sum it up i see it as a waste and believe sae30 is more shear stable than multi grade, thats more important to me. if it were a colder climate/winter i would run 10w30 conventional.


Have you ever ran a generator engine for two days, at near max peak for starting a whole house AC, and then let it run and cycle as required when ambient is 100F, when the sun is up.

There are some applications where the run time, RPM, and ambient make uning the best oil a good idea.
 
Just as the newer cars are getting bigger/better/faster, they are trying to cram every available microsnick of HP out of small engines. They are going to run under more stress as a result. you can only get so much cooling out of a set of fins...and there's not much oil volume to aid in cooling either.

In the air-cooled small engines, I firmly believe synthetic or an HDEO will hold up better under those conditions. I can see it in my own equipment, the oil just holds up better for the same interval.

I personally don't mind spending a few dollars more on synthetics (when viewed in the minor added cost it has here). Besides, I can now run the same oil in all my equipment and cars!
 
Originally Posted By: deeter16317

In the air-cooled small engines, I firmly believe synthetic or an HDEO will hold up better under those conditions. I can see it in my own equipment, the oil just holds up better for the same interval. I personally don't mind spending a few dollars more on synthetics.

im unsure what you mean by you can see it holds up better and im not a syn hater see my signiture. and to jim, no ive never ran a generator for that amout of time under those circumstances, i can say i have a friend who is a commercial cutter and all he runs is napa sae 30 conventioal (valvoline), his machienes see 8-10 hrs a day 6 days a wk minus trailer time, and has some older scags (kaw engines) with 3k + hrs on them
 
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