Rotella T5, 10w30......not a lot of chatter....???
- Thread starter BigJohn
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Depends on what vehicle this oil would be used in.
We hit colder then -15F a few times over the past few years here in CO, and I wouldn't have a thick 10w-30 in my sump at those temps!
We hit colder then -15F a few times over the past few years here in CO, and I wouldn't have a thick 10w-30 in my sump at those temps!
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Depends on what vehicle this oil would be used in.
We hit colder then -15F a few times over the past few years here in CO, and I wouldn't have a thick 10w-30 in my sump at those temps!
Drew, you make a good point and my exact concern. I have been running Delvac and Rotela 15w40 HDEO in my bikes and on a cool morning (30 degrees)....the starters struggle to turn over.
Here in CO.....probably best to stick to 5wXX or even 0wXX.
Depends on what vehicle this oil would be used in.
We hit colder then -15F a few times over the past few years here in CO, and I wouldn't have a thick 10w-30 in my sump at those temps!
Drew, you make a good point and my exact concern. I have been running Delvac and Rotela 15w40 HDEO in my bikes and on a cool morning (30 degrees)....the starters struggle to turn over.
Here in CO.....probably best to stick to 5wXX or even 0wXX.
So the T5 is approved for gas engines? It's SL or SM?
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
So the T5 is approved for gas engines? It's SL or SM?
SM
http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-56.pdf
So the T5 is approved for gas engines? It's SL or SM?
SM
http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-56.pdf
My bud used it in his Audi S2 4.2 and he said mpg went up and consumption went down. The only issue is that the engines that actually need a heavy 30 are mostly turbos, and people shy away from anything not full synth.
It's like Rotella Light. If they made this in a full synth, I'd be all over it, but otherwise that leaves a few HP cars w/o turbos (like BMW for instance) that it would be ideal for.
Edit to add some Nissans to the list, but last time I suggested a guy use heavy 30 in a Nissan I got slammed pretty hard.
I still think the best way to respond to this thread would be to list the cars it'd be good in.
It's like Rotella Light. If they made this in a full synth, I'd be all over it, but otherwise that leaves a few HP cars w/o turbos (like BMW for instance) that it would be ideal for.
Edit to add some Nissans to the list, but last time I suggested a guy use heavy 30 in a Nissan I got slammed pretty hard.
I still think the best way to respond to this thread would be to list the cars it'd be good in.
I'm thinking about putting this oil in my old '68 Dodge for the winter/colder months. I do like to drive the car if the roads are free of salt. I know the 15W-40 currently in the sump can get a bit thick when the temps drop to around freezing here in NY.
Ed B.
Ed B.
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
With T5 going to $11.50 a gallon at Wally World, I thought there would be more chatter.
What are folks opinions of T5 (10w30) in Gassers?
If my winter temps dip to zero....maybe even -10F, is a 10wXX too thick for start-up?
No chatter because no one is trying to bash it
With T5 going to $11.50 a gallon at Wally World, I thought there would be more chatter.
What are folks opinions of T5 (10w30) in Gassers?
If my winter temps dip to zero....maybe even -10F, is a 10wXX too thick for start-up?
No chatter because no one is trying to bash it
been running it in our Supercharged 3.3l Nissan Xterra. Nothing scientific to post from me. however, it did cause a more sluggish motor start in the mornings compared to PP 5w30 that was in it
It is back up to $16.00 at Redding Calif. Wallyworlds
Still 11.50 a gallon here... maybe i need to stock up on a few gallons just in case.
I think T5 is probably an under recognized oil.
After I'm done with a 10k+ run on Rotella T6 and fram XG on our caravan, I'm gonna try T5 and a P1 for 10k miles and take a UOA.
I think T5 is probably an under recognized oil.
After I'm done with a 10k+ run on Rotella T6 and fram XG on our caravan, I'm gonna try T5 and a P1 for 10k miles and take a UOA.
It is new and a I think a lot of Rotella users are like me and have a stock of the older type on hand. I'm going to try Rotella T5 10w30 when I use up the remainder of the 5w40 that I have on hand, or perhaps before that if my curiosity gets the best of me.
It's never been that I believe the 5w40 weight Rotella I've been using to be necessary or even better for my cars. I only went to it to get the stout additive package of an HDEO - and I could only find HDEO in 5w40 and 15w40 on store shelves - when they reformulated the 5w30 and 10w30 oils I had been using [Mobil 1] to reduce their ZDDP additive level a few years ago. I just wanted to keep the same basic additive package that oils had when my engines were designed "for good measure," I guess you could say, and the HDEOs gave me that. I ran some 5w40 and got good UOAs and on road trips found the gas mileage to be basically the same - maybe a couple of tenths of a mile per gallon less, at most, as explained in other posts I've made here about that - so I've run with it ever since.
I think the Rotella 10w30 might be better for my applications than their 5w40 I've been using. I'll have to give up my bias toward synthetic to use it, but I think the distinctions between synthetic and conventional oil coming out of modern refineries are not where they were when I became a synthetic convert 20-something years ago. It might be a perfect blend for me. I intend to check that out.
It's never been that I believe the 5w40 weight Rotella I've been using to be necessary or even better for my cars. I only went to it to get the stout additive package of an HDEO - and I could only find HDEO in 5w40 and 15w40 on store shelves - when they reformulated the 5w30 and 10w30 oils I had been using [Mobil 1] to reduce their ZDDP additive level a few years ago. I just wanted to keep the same basic additive package that oils had when my engines were designed "for good measure," I guess you could say, and the HDEOs gave me that. I ran some 5w40 and got good UOAs and on road trips found the gas mileage to be basically the same - maybe a couple of tenths of a mile per gallon less, at most, as explained in other posts I've made here about that - so I've run with it ever since.
I think the Rotella 10w30 might be better for my applications than their 5w40 I've been using. I'll have to give up my bias toward synthetic to use it, but I think the distinctions between synthetic and conventional oil coming out of modern refineries are not where they were when I became a synthetic convert 20-something years ago. It might be a perfect blend for me. I intend to check that out.
I ran the dino Rotella T 10W-30 in a number of Jeeps (4.0 I6) and they loved it. Most 4.0s have ticking lifters, but Rotella quieted mine down nicely.
With that said, it rarely gets below zero where I live (single digit lows are about as cold as it gets). I probably wouldn't run it in a climate that got much colder.
With that said, it rarely gets below zero where I live (single digit lows are about as cold as it gets). I probably wouldn't run it in a climate that got much colder.
I have been using T5 in my Jeep 4.0 and my Cadillac 4.1. Both cars have flat tappet lifters and my Cadillac manual says DO NOT USE 40-weight (in big bold caps) so I wanted to try the T5 as a 30-weight. Both cars run noticeably better, ie better compression, better mileage, less noise and consumption. The cadillac had a bearing thump that has gone away, and the jeep had a bit of valve rattle that has also gone away. Very happy with this oil in my old-school motors.
^Nice. I'm wanting my folks to use T5.
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