Rotella T1 vs synthetic oils in roller OHV/OHC

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Basically what started me on this is yesterday a guy posted on FB that he was switching from Castrol 20w50 to Rotella 15w40 in his turbo Honda to try it out. I made a crack about everyone using Rotella like it was the shyte
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Annd of course a half-dozen people jumped in saying how they had used it in theirs and it worked great, diesel oils are the best for performance and turbos, yada yada.

Now, I have always used shelf conventional oil myself in all my turbo Chrysler 2.2/2.5's and in my LA engines, both name brand and store brand, without any catastrophic failures. And I do beat on my turbo cars every day pretty much. However, on my slider cam engines (OHC cam with non-roller followers), I did notice some wear on the cam over 20k miles or so. So I looked for ZDP oils to run. I started with 20w50 VR1, but for whatever reason my 2.2 would eat it, half a quart a week. Switched to Kendall GT-1, and it went back to normal oil consumption (these engines have issues with it, due to the PCV system and my double stock boost pressure :lol: ) Seemed to work well. On my roller cam engine (OHC with roller followers), No noticeable wear with store brand 10w30.

However all those are old tech engines, with the 2.2/2.5 engines being designed in the early 80's. Not particularly tight tolerances or high cyl head temps. I am sure that even those could benefit from a better synthetic oil though also, particularly the turbo engines as they have turbo housing heat to deal with.

My question though is really this: What the best off-the-shelf oil for a late-model, roller cam (either OHV or OHC) high-performance engine that has tight tolerances and high cyl head temps, that is street driven regularly? I know some friends with modified LSx engines that run Rotella T in them because they've been told it's the best because of the zinc or ZDP content or because diesel oils must be tougher. Same for a lot of people around with modified Hondas (turbo and NA) and other hopped up 80-90's 4-cyls. The Hondas I think may have slider cams but most of the rest (Ford mod motors, LSx's, Hemi's etc) have rollers wherever possible. I do know that I have never seen any professional engine builder or racer recommend running a diesel oil. And I do know that most 2000-newer engines come with synthetic stock, and seem gunk up if conventional is used.

I personally own a '01 Durango with the 4.7, which I love. I have been using O'reilly house brand full synthetic in it but have been thinking lately of switching to a better oil. I see that SRT is using Pennzoil Platinum in the new SRT's, so I was thinking of going to that. Either that or Mobil 1 synthetic. Truck has 127k on it and runs well, and I would like to keep it that way.

I work at O'reillys, and I have to answer questions like this all the time, so I would like to be able to give a more informed answer than just hearsay from the street :?

And I guess my secondary question is, is it worth switching to synthetic in an older engine, like my '87 318 Diplomat (factory roller cam), 5.2 Magnum, and 2.2/2.5's with roller followers?

I kinda copied and pasted this from another forum I posted this on, so let me know if any clarification is needed.
 
That should be rotella T3 "triple protection"
if its 15w40

t1 is diesel only oil.
 
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Hi ForceFedMopar,

I regularly used Rotella T-6 5w-40 in my 89 2.5L turbo Caravan, (16psi), at 208k miles the engine is original except for a water pump and head gasket at 160k miles. An excellent oil for a turbo engine.

When I get my 86 GLHT, (converted to T-2 with a Shelby 2.2 engine and 5 speed), back together I will run either T-6 or M-1 TDT 5w-40.

Wayne
 
Myth dispersal!the t1 sae 30 was made for 8v92 2 stroke .marine industry still use a variant.yep a diesel 2stroke.i dont think the use you ll put the t1 sae 30 will give issue to that oil.thos 8v92 (91 cant recall) had huge supercharger style thing on top and were turbocharged (also on the top of the supercharger if memory serve ,some can correct me.the v design of engine alone and loose tolerence made it a nightmare to the oil,add the 2stroke idea in a diesel (for the day)and all the add-on for power and it took a good oil to survive in there .dont sweat it t1 sae 30 is old school ,but it will do its job well.
 
Oil maker are lucky! If i was the sae boss?the engine i would use for oil test would be the 8v92 silver with supercharger and turbo if it existed.okok i know .oil union would probably sue sae because oil maker would need to work harder)
 
Might be T3, I forget lol.

So, it's okay to run in a engine, but would it be better to run a full synthetic, like Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Pennz Platinum etc? I guess my thought was that without flat tappets to worry about, you could take advantage of a newer full synthetic formula with less zinc and whatnot in it.
 
Originally Posted By: Oldmoparguy1
Hi ForceFedMopar,

I regularly used Rotella T-6 5w-40 in my 89 2.5L turbo Caravan, (16psi), at 208k miles the engine is original except for a water pump and head gasket at 160k miles. An excellent oil for a turbo engine.

When I get my 86 GLHT, (converted to T-2 with a Shelby 2.2 engine and 5 speed), back together I will run either T-6 or M-1 TDT 5w-40.

Wayne


Good to know! So far I've not had any oil related failures with conventional 10w30 in a proper assembled engine. Right now my current daily is an '89 Lebaron turbo GTC w/ a rebuilt 2.5 common block w/ Wiseco pistons and a air-to-water intercooler, exhaust work and a tune on raised boost levels (up to 18-20 psi). The 2.2 I ran in my Daytona had low oil pressure at idle due to a missing oil restrictor, so I ran 20w50 in it, never had problems with it either really, although I did have to replace rod bearings after a couple years of hard DD'ing.

I have a few other turbo Chrysler projects going on too, as well as a 3.0 V6 build and some planned 4.7 builds. Most have double or triple stock power outputs planned, so finding the best oil for roller cam engines is going to be pretty important.
 
Personally I tend to like valvoline premium for conventional oil.for synth?tried the m1 ep.I don't like the weirdness so I baught mobil delvac1 le5w30 one of their better oil .if engine seem shy about this oil too ,I all go valvoline premium conventional .no use paying high dollars (43$ us for 3.78 liter if engine weirdness is still there
 
Originally Posted By: ForceFedMopar
I work at O'reillys, and I have to answer questions like this all the time, so I would like to be able to give a more informed answer than just hearsay from the street :?

And I guess my secondary question is, is it worth switching to synthetic in an older engine, like my '87 318 Diplomat (factory roller cam), 5.2 Magnum, and 2.2/2.5's with roller followers?


At O'Reilly's you can tell about the fact that Kendall GT-1 has all 4 types of anti-wear additives used today. Zinc (ZDDP), moly, boron, and titanium. Almost all oils have the zinc, and then other oils are missing one or more of (moly, boron, titanium), so its nice to see all 4 in one product.
Another oil that does this is Castrol Edge synthetic.
With the chemists and tribologists attacking the wear issue using all 4 kinds of anti-wear substances, it seems to be a more sophisticated approach.

For your second question, should synthetics be used in old cars, YES. Why? Long oil change intervals, less labor, time wasted, oil and filters used. Go 1 year between changes using synthetics, any name brand will do that.
 
Rotella T6 or Mobil 1, 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck.

Both are robust diesel oils. Rotella is a bit less expensive. TDT is a bit more robust. Both will outperform conventional oils in nearly every turbocharged engine.
 
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