It had about 160K miles and was burning 1qt of oil every 3,000 miles. I sold it a couple of years later at about 180K miles.
Street rod oil
- Thread starter edogg
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It had about 160K miles and was burning 1qt of oil every 3,000 miles. I sold it a couple of years later at about 180K miles.
However, not sure is the varnish is from the Valvoline MaxLife that was run for about 8 years because I got the car at 120K miles and drove it until 160-180K miles. So the MaxLife might actually did some cleaning, if the engine had too much sludge before from the first owner who probably run conventional oil. The first oil after I bought it was very dark and I changed it a bit later after I got the vehicle.
Those late oil changes contribute the most for ring deposits and sticking, IMO.
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Previously I was running 6 qts VR1 conventional 10w30, but recently just switched to 5 qts of Mobil 1 Euro 0w40 and added 1 qt Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 for a little extra ZDDP boost. I know from previous posts and emails from Mobil that the Mobil 1 Euro would be fine by itself…So far it seems really smooth and quieter, especially at start up.
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I ran across this oil Company Brad Penn in my research and reading sometime back and the more I dig into the info, the History is VERY interesting and I kinda got lots of questions like exactly what well location can the base stock be traced to and is it truly what was considered Penn Grade ( Not the name but as I understand the specific location or well of the base stock oil ) and to make sure its still blended in the old Kendall plant in Bradford ( the oldest in the USA) and would love to know what those folks would say about me running it in my Harley?
In the 70's when I was 9 or 10 dad told me always use a Penn Grade Oil ( old school from the 40's I think but would love to talk to these guys.
My goal is to find the best mineral oil that won't shear early in my Harley but will stand up to my hot summer heat, I am a fan of mineral, Or a synthetic / synthetic blend that also won't shear early but also has NO top end noise in my 23 M8 Harley. my oil will never see the Clutch so friction modifiers are OK in my application.
The fact its Green is kinda cool IMO.
I would like to see what these folks have to say as I too can talk a good 30 min about the right oil for the job at hand...
Thanks! I will report back.
Castrol GTX Classic 20W-50. They make 10W-30?
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Brad Penn hasn't been made with Pennsylvania crude for some years now, but they dye the oil green. Driven GP1 contains Pennsylvania crude and has a modern additive package with corrosion inhibitors. GP1 is a also a semi-synthetic. If you want an oil for your motorcycle, use an oil designed for motorcycles.
As for the OP, I'd recommend Driven GP1 in 10W-40 or 15W-40, or Amsoil's Z-Rod in 10W-40. Don't use HDEO.
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I want to do some research on the Driven as well, Thanks.
Most modern oil I see labeled "motorcycle oil" are designed so the oil can be used in bikes with a shared sump with the engine and wet clutch, The one exception I have found is HPL. HPL sells a bike oil like others that can be used in a engine with a wet clutch but also sells a motorcycle oil that I can special order that is NOT wet clutch approved.
One question I do have is would I benefit from a oil that is not wet clutch approved as friction modifiers would be Okay in my bike when not in many others as I have NO wet clutch or cat in the mix.
Some folks in my exact situation are running Valvoline VR1 Racing oil ( labeled NOT for Motorcycle Wet Clutches ) with good results. I see PenGrade1 makes motorcycle oil but I may not necessarily need a "motor cycle oil" as I understand but then again I may...
