Rotella T1 30W or Supertech HD-30 for Small Engines

[repairman54]

Just did the first oil change on my new log splitter. 6.5 hp Kohler, out with factory oil, in with M1 15-50w leftover in the jug from my HD oil change.

 

[53' Stude]

Most of my stuff and brothers gets M1 15w50 or Providence 15w40

 

[Highlander 1459]

Aren't those all for Diesel engines? Anything out there that can be used on gasoline engines as well?

exactly, they used to label those sort of oils as All Fleet...
anybody ever worked in a large mixed vehicle fleet knows that if they have to stock 4 different motor oils
and the employees have to use 4 different motor oils knows there is a good chance the incorrect oil is going be used
and stocking four different motor oils is a pain.. so All Fleet oils are the sensible choice.

and yes,15w40 oils are great choices for most small engines.

 

[z71bill]

The ability to discern viscosity visually comes from having changed oil for the last 12 years right after mowing and at full temp and having noticed the pour rate out of the spout to the oil catch pan. Accurate to the tee? Probably not. Am I right? I know I am.

I change the oil when the engine is cold - not just lawn mowers but vehicles too.

I let it drain a little longer - drip drip drip but all the oil comes out.

It makes zero difference -

If someone say but "sludge" they don't know what sludge is --

I do change oil in the generators when they are hot - because I want to get back on line faster.

 

[Silverado12]

I've heard that straight grade 30 stays in spec better than 10W30, so I use the Briggs branded 30 for my small engines. Non-detergent, from my understanding, doesn't have additives. It's reasonably priced at Wally's.

 

[blufeb95]

I've heard that straight grade 30 stays in spec better than 10W30, so I use the Briggs branded 30 for my small engines. Non-detergent, from my understanding, doesn't have additives. It's reasonably priced at Wally's.

No, it's definitely not non-detergent, do not put non-detergent oil in pretty much any engine, there are in general three types of non detergent oil, there's the kind with an anti-wear package that kind is suitable for air compressors and hydraulic systems commonly sold as API SB motor oil, anti-wear hydraulic fluid or "air compressor oil" , there's the kind with only a rust and oxidation package whch is most commonly referred to at "turbine oil" but sometimes sold as R&O hydraulic fluid which is what you'd typically want for sintered bearings, and then there's that completely non-additized crap, which is sold as "non-detergent" it used to be labeled "API SA" but it seems they've stopped that, I'm not really sure what use the stuff really has other than oiling air filters and maybe some very old two stroke engines to be blended with the fuel but I wouldn't ever use it in an engine, on bearings, or in an air compressor.

 

[Silverado12]

^^^ Oh, I wasn't saying to use N-D; I use Briggs 30 oil. I was just saying non det oil doesn't have additives. I didn't mean to imply that I was using it. My mistake for not being articulate.

 

[4WD]

Very true, guess their isn't an anti-wear additive for plastic. lol

Near the check out counter - Lucas has one

 

[locomaster1969]

Any oil rated API will work provided it is xx/30 weight or above. Good ole diesel oil is just fine for this application and of course any gas rated oil 30wt or above. Check the oil level before you fire up that mower. If it needs a few ounces then add some oil.

 

[ripcord]

Clean and full is 99% of the equation. Weight and brand are of much less concern for OPE equipment.

 

[4WD]

LTB