Rotella T Cured my Transaxle Clunk?

[ARCOgraphite]

When I was running syntec 5w30 in my Yaris I was having a loud CLUNK every time I clutched the car. I was mentally prepareing myself for transaxle service - or at least a fluid change. Now that I did the last OC with RT1030 CJ4 (+ purolator prem)I noticed the clunking is gone! I have thoughts on this, but will hold my tongue until I get a couple well considered responses. Whaddya Thunk?

 

[ThirdeYe]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
When I was running syntec 5w30 in my Yaris I was having a loud CLUNK every time I clutched the car. I was mentally prepareing myself for transaxle service - or at least a fluid change. Now that I did the last OC with RT1030 CJ4 (+ purolator prem)I noticed the clunking is gone! I have thoughts on this, but will hold my tongue until I get a couple well considered responses. Whaddya Thunk?

 

[G-MAN]

I don't see how changing the engine oil would have any effect on noises coming from the clutch or tranaxle.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Hint: Think crankshaft

 

[Familyguy]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Hint: Think crankshaft


Hint: They are totally unrelated.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Any Engine builders or Master Engine Techs out there?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: Familyguy
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Hint: Think crankshaft


Hint: They are totally unrelated.

Totally unrelated with the exception that they are tightly bolted together ...

 

[Familyguy]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: Familyguy
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Hint: Think crankshaft


Hint: They are totally unrelated.

Totally unrelated with the exception that they are tightly bolted together ...

Your engine is also tightly bolted to the exhaust system, but changing your oil isn't going to affect an exhaust leak. There is absolutely no way that changing your engine oil will affect a transaxle clunk.

Best,

 

[bepperb]

You have a dry clutch. But, it sounds to me like the Rotella has crept it's way past the crankshaft seal. Probably not enough seal conditioners in the oil you were using in the past caused the rubber to get brittle. Also, from what I understand from other Toyota products, this problem is made worse by the higher oil pressure from running higher than specd viscosity in cold conditions. Anyway, sure this oil that's bleeding past the seal is currently lubricating your throwout bearing and curing the noise, but eventually this oil will make it to the friction surface of the clutch and cause premature wear.

Or, I just made that up and this is all in your head (along with most other problems you face in your life's journey through vehicles).

Of sheer morbid curiosity, can you enlighten us to what your hypothosis is?

 

[The_Jeff]

Think it's the crank thrust bearing? Can you make the clunk sitting idling still in neutral just clutching and declutching?

If you work the clutch can you see the big pulley move in and out? They aren't supposed to...

 

[Drew99GT]

Since the seat is bolted to the chassis, and the engine is bolted to the chassis, Rotella cured my hemorrhoids.

 

[mechtech2]

With an audible clunk when the clutch is engaged, you should be able to actually measure the crankshaft end play.
Push the main crank pulley in all the way, then pry it out. Measure it any way that you cobble up. But if you see it without measuring it, it is too much [over 010"].
The thicker oil is cushioning the clunk, IMO.

 

[Herz]

Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Since the seat is bolted to the chassis, and the engine is bolted to the chassis, Rotella cured my hemorrhoids.


I got a good laugh out of this.

If the oil seems to have cured the noise stick with it

 

[Vikas]

Is it possible that the OP forgot about AutoRX he had put in the engine oil? That must have fixed his trans axle clunk.

- Vikas

 

[Familyguy]

Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Since the seat is bolted to the chassis, and the engine is bolted to the chassis, Rotella cured my hemorrhoids.


LOLZ.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

OK some of you guys got it - eljefino and mechtech2.
The previous syntec was not providing enough system oil pressure to keep the crank from creeping FWD. Surprising to me, I though that 10-15psi would be enough to prevent the crank flange from slamming into the bearing webs; I guess not ;( For the non-tech guys, on a dry clutch system, when you depress the clutch, the release fork presses on the pressureplate diaphram springs and it pushes the crankshaft forward. If there is inadequate oil pressure or viscosity, you can get a clunk if there is generous end play. I guess i got to get my dial indicator and check crank endplay - dont feel I can get in there with the engine installed though. Another reason for higher wear metals in MT cars - and MT cars with worng viscosity oil. Thanks for the responses.

 

[JohnBrowning]

First I have only come across one Toyota that managed to wear out it's thrust bearing while everything else mechanical was fine and that vechile had 220,000 miles on it hard miles too I should add. Normaly if you keep your oil clean and changed a thrust washer/bearing is usually good for the life of the engine especially in a front wheel drive with such a low torque motor. No oil in the world would quite a worn thrust washer/bearing. In the past Toyota has used two bronze half washers about 1/4 of an inch thick. You had to pry the on the crank ie "thrust" to install them they are not a flanged bearing like what GM and FOrd and most domestics used. So copper or bronze and it's allow materials would be showing up inthe oil if it has one. Thrust washer/bearing do not usualy have any direct oiling they get left overs fromt he crank or from the oil spilling out of what ever main it is close to.

 

[Drew99GT]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I guess i got to get my dial indicator and check crank endplay - dont feel I can get in there with the engine installed though. Another reason for higher wear metals in MT cars - and MT cars with worng viscosity oil. Thanks for the responses.


Looks like ya lost yet another one.

 

[Drew99GT]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Another reason for higher wear metals in MT cars - and MT cars with worng viscosity oil.


That is utter horse manure without any kind of objective statistical analysis with a HUGE data sample.

Do you drop the clutch on every start?

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Another reason for higher wear metals in MT cars - and MT cars with worng viscosity oil.


That is utter horse manure without any kind of objective statistical analysis with a HUGE data sample.

Do you drop the clutch on every start?



At 8,000RPM baby, and power-shift every gear! LOL!