Rock Auto Filter Question...

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I've never ordered anything from Rock Auto before, but was checking out the oil filters. I've been running Fram Ultras on both of my cars. But for the prices of some of these filters, I can change out the filter with every change for the same or lower price as using the Ultra. I've been looking at EcoGard, Premium Guard, Baldwin, Hastings, etc... for the price. Any recommendations on those filters or ones to avoid?

L8R,
Matt
 
I dont worry much about price or reusing an oil filter.
just skip going out to eat once and you paid for your year's supply.
 
You can get Ultras for $6 at places like Amazon and EBay.
If you are willing to pay around $6 and want to try other brands, the Premium Guard XL is a good choice. If you run 5K or under OCIs, the regular sub-$2 Premium Guard works very well. I've used those and recommend them.

You mentioned four brands and I've only used one (Baldwin). I would never buy another Baldwin again. Cold startup clatter is the reason why.

BTW..... buy at least 3-4 filters from RockAuto. Their shipping rates are not cheap.
 
I would watch when ordering other parts to see if you can get them shipped from the same warehouse for little or no additional price.

I did great on some champion filters for toyota for 91 cents each; the shipping worked out to another 55 cents or so when shipped to my work.
 
Originally Posted by Nitronoise
why wouldnt you change your filter when you dump the oil?? why pour a quart of dirty oil into the clean oil??


Most filters nowadays only hold 4-5 ounces. At most, around 12 ounces for the bigger spin-ons.
Your engine already contains a quart of dirty oil that it holds back when you change it. What's another few ounces more?
 
My recommendation is to only order from their regular inventory (NOT closeout). Their closeout filters are really old and too old to use safely
smile.gif
 
Thanks so far. I usually get my Ultra and jug of oil at Wally World. Fram Ultras there are $8.97 each for both cars. But their synthetic oil prices are hard to beat except if I get Harvest King from my local Rural King for around $13/5qt jug.

L8R,
Matt
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
You shop the cheapest synthetic oil and use top-of-the-shelf, quality oil filters.
I'm just the opposite. Proven name oils and economy filters.



I'm using M1 oil and a Tough Guard filter/s for 15k. I must be onto something
wink.gif



Or I am just a uneducated mechanic
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
You shop the cheapest synthetic oil and use top-of-the-shelf, quality oil filters.
I'm just the opposite. Proven name oils and economy filters.


Actually I've used Pennzoil Platinum almost exclusively until the last few oil changes. This time I used Ultimate Durability in my Elantra, and Service Pro in my Sebring because I changed that car at the lube shop where I work. But Ultimate Durability runs $19 and Platinum runs $22 at my local Wally World. Now I'm trying to find a happy medium between oil and filter costs.

L8R,
Matt
 
Originally Posted by Nitronoise
why wouldnt you change your filter when you dump the oil?? why pour a quart of dirty oil into the clean oil??
There was a study done by a either a cab company or a government agency in California that claimed that leaving a quart of old oil in during an OCI was actually beneficial. I wish I could cite it.
 
A couple of weeks ago, I ordered a dozen Hastings CF110 oil filters from Rock Auto for $1.58 each. These appear to be current production oil filters. (not on Rock's closeout list anyway)
It's amusing to me that these filters are made in Nebraska just a short distance from me, but they were shipped to me out of the Bronx, New York. So these were loaded in a semi truck in Nebraska, shipped half way around the country to New York and were still sold for to me for under $2 each. (FYI: I ordered several dozen of these about a year ago on Rock's closeout, priced under $1/each and they were Hastings-manufactured, but painted with the Federated auto store's color and part number)
Then they got put in a box and shipped back (for under $10, IIRC) to me and they end up close to where they were manufactured.
ANYWAY, the CF110 is a Motorcraft FL820 clone, has louvers and I've never had a problem with them after using (probably) a couple of hundred of these on my vehicles over the past years.
 
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Originally Posted by Nitronoise
why wouldnt you change your filter when you dump the oil?? why pour a quart of dirty oil into the clean oil??
There was a study done by a either a cab company or a government agency in California that claimed that leaving a quart of old oil in during an OCI was actually beneficial. I wish I could cite it.

I've seen The study too. The idea is that the additives begin to work best after some use and leaving some old in with new allows additive from the little bit of old oil to continue functioning well while the new oil breaks in.
 
Originally Posted by AnthemBassMan
I've never ordered anything from Rock Auto before, but was checking out the oil filters. I've been running Fram Ultras on both of my cars. But for the prices of some of these filters, I can change out the filter with every change for the same or lower price as using the Ultra. I've been looking at EcoGard, Premium Guard, Baldwin, Hastings, etc... for the price. Any recommendations on those filters or ones to avoid?

L8R,
Matt

All those filters seem to hold up well, judging bu the cut and posts.
Baldwin and Hastings are real similar and long since proven to be good .quality
 
Originally Posted by Pinoak
I've seen The study too. The idea is that the additives begin to work best after some use and leaving some old in with new allows additive from the little bit of old oil to continue functioning well while the new oil breaks in.

Is this what you're referring to? Did you see this?
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...32777/all/Should_I_leave_a_little_used_o

Originally Posted by Shannow
That paper keeps getting trotted out as proof of something that the paper never tested nor demonstrated.

They took a bunch of used oils, some of which were utterly shagged, had thickened excessivly and had poor TBN.

Then they use a contacting surface tribometer and measured the establishment of the tribofilms with new and progressively used oil. The used oil formed tribofilms on fresh metal surfaces quicker than fresh.

This is entirely to be expected, as the first part of the laying down of tribofilms involves partial destruction of the ZDDP/Mo into more reactive species...some additive companies put a lot of different elemental "variaties" in so that there are different points of activation.

So the oil with the most already partially reacted species in it produced the best tribofilms the earliest...exactly as expected.

The Used oil, excessively thick, wiht no TBN to speak of was not necessarily the best oil to have in the engine. Extrapolating the limits (surface tribometer) of this study INTO that realm is really stretching the bow a bit (well a lot).

And at OCI, the quote that you have provided assumes that ALL of the tribofilm is removed to fresh metal (not true, never seen anything on that).

As to the thought process...

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4060600/1
 
Originally Posted by Nitronoise
rock auto is a good place for parts I have no problems ordering or returning parts


Ditto, they rock!
 
Returns on a filter I got from RA were very smooth.

I'd also look at their Wix. Both Wix for my cars are sold for rock bottom prices on RA. I try to combine a filter purchase with other parts that I might need from them, so their shipping evens out.
 
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