Meh. Okay.
Latest Lawnmower change
- Thread starter Shannow
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Bottom Feeder,
you need to keep up with the memes.
Huh?
This whole post is a joke. Poking fun at people on bitog who do basically the same thing.
+1
Whimsey
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Bottom Feeder,
you need to keep up with the memes.
Huh?
This whole post is a joke. Poking fun at people on bitog who do basically the same thing.
+1
Whimsey
I think I'll just continue to change the oil once a year, just like I do now. No TP filtering or "preconditioning" needed.
And when you get to almost 1,700 hours on the engine like my mower has, then you'll actually have something to brag about.
And when you get to almost 1,700 hours on the engine like my mower has, then you'll actually have something to brag about.
Why do you have hardly used oil and if you are that frugal to reuse it then why did you hardly use it in the first place? Not that I care what you do with used oil but seams like more of a pain than anything. I don't like to put a value on my time but I think my time would be better spent scratching my butt and staring off into space instead of filtering used oil.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Shannow
You are forgetting, they are all compatible, and having oil left in the sump at OCI time proves it.
40 minutes run time on the brew to date, and nothing bad has happened, clearly there's no problem with the brew.
What exactly would you expect 40 minutes of use to show anyway???
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
I think I'll just continue to change the oil once a year, just like I do now. No TP filtering or "preconditioning" needed.
And when you get to almost 1,700 hours on the engine like my mower has, then you'll actually have something to brag about.
While I suspect that used oil has its place if one is so inclined to use it in OPE, I tend to agree.
You are forgetting, they are all compatible, and having oil left in the sump at OCI time proves it.
40 minutes run time on the brew to date, and nothing bad has happened, clearly there's no problem with the brew.
What exactly would you expect 40 minutes of use to show anyway???
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
I think I'll just continue to change the oil once a year, just like I do now. No TP filtering or "preconditioning" needed.
And when you get to almost 1,700 hours on the engine like my mower has, then you'll actually have something to brag about.
While I suspect that used oil has its place if one is so inclined to use it in OPE, I tend to agree.
I like it.
All good oils. The new oil would compensate for any additive depletion in the used Edge. And considering the used Edge has been filtered, there should be no metal or insolubles.
All good oils. The new oil would compensate for any additive depletion in the used Edge. And considering the used Edge has been filtered, there should be no metal or insolubles.
Preconditioned??? Does that term apply to girlfriends as well??
Do a tear down at the end of the season and report back. Lol
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Comedy Gold!
Originally Posted By: Rand
This whole post is a joke. Poking fun at people on bitog who do basically the same thing.
Now, all Shannow needs is a UOA to prove that this is at least as good as any oil for sale by the majors.
This whole post is a joke. Poking fun at people on bitog who do basically the same thing.
Now, all Shannow needs is a UOA to prove that this is at least as good as any oil for sale by the majors.
Garak,
yes, you are correct, a UOA would give the ultimate proof of the superiority of my approach.
As some of you picked up, I'm having a joke...the brew IS in the mower, and no I wasn't expecting it to blow up.
"I do X and nothing blew up", or "nothing bad happened" is a recent performance standard on BITOG to justify all sorts of illogical behaviour from intentional mixing to additives...was having a dig, using something which is clearly illogical.
And yes, nothing blew up.
As to the used oil, the partially reacted ZDDP species have plenty of lab papers showing that they form tribofilms quicker and easier than virgin...thus "preconditioned"
yes, you are correct, a UOA would give the ultimate proof of the superiority of my approach.
As some of you picked up, I'm having a joke...the brew IS in the mower, and no I wasn't expecting it to blow up.
"I do X and nothing blew up", or "nothing bad happened" is a recent performance standard on BITOG to justify all sorts of illogical behaviour from intentional mixing to additives...was having a dig, using something which is clearly illogical.
And yes, nothing blew up.
As to the used oil, the partially reacted ZDDP species have plenty of lab papers showing that they form tribofilms quicker and easier than virgin...thus "preconditioned"
I do used oil a lot - I change my motorcycle oil (non gearbox) at 6,000km, keep it and use it to top up my daughters oil burner when she shows up, she never checks the oil, so it's always low.
My mower had used oil too, and it's really old. I put some synthetic oil of unknown viscosity into a bike late last century, and only ran it a few times. A couple of years ago I rebuilt the bike, and changed the oil of course before running it. That oil has been in the mower for the last couple of years, still nice and clean. This weekend I might change it for some 5W30, and will do a temp test before and after like Shannow has done. Free mowers are good to experiment on - if this one blows up I'll just give it back to the SIL and say, ''It's really stuffed now mate, you better get rid of it.''
My mower had used oil too, and it's really old. I put some synthetic oil of unknown viscosity into a bike late last century, and only ran it a few times. A couple of years ago I rebuilt the bike, and changed the oil of course before running it. That oil has been in the mower for the last couple of years, still nice and clean. This weekend I might change it for some 5W30, and will do a temp test before and after like Shannow has done. Free mowers are good to experiment on - if this one blows up I'll just give it back to the SIL and say, ''It's really stuffed now mate, you better get rid of it.''
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Garak,
As to the used oil, the partially reacted ZDDP species have plenty of lab papers showing that they form tribofilms quicker and easier than virgin...thus "preconditioned"
Would you happen to know how long something like that takes? In a typically engine, is it something like 500 miles?
Garak,
As to the used oil, the partially reacted ZDDP species have plenty of lab papers showing that they form tribofilms quicker and easier than virgin...thus "preconditioned"
Would you happen to know how long something like that takes? In a typically engine, is it something like 500 miles?
With small engines, the oil level is more important than the OCI or type used.
I've seen guys with 20 year old push mowers that run like new because all they did was add oil when it got low. I've also seen a few 1 or 2 year old mowers with seized engines because the oil level got too low and the owner never checked it.
As much as I laugh at the new Briggs engines that claim "no oil change needed, just add when low", Briggs really isn't too far off with that thinking. Keep the oil level in check and it will last for years.
I've seen guys with 20 year old push mowers that run like new because all they did was add oil when it got low. I've also seen a few 1 or 2 year old mowers with seized engines because the oil level got too low and the owner never checked it.
As much as I laugh at the new Briggs engines that claim "no oil change needed, just add when low", Briggs really isn't too far off with that thinking. Keep the oil level in check and it will last for years.
Oil level...in all conditions. Flat land in NZ is something we see on TV...it's in other countries - one day a guy came into work asking what sort of mower he should get. One of the other guys said, ''it doesn't matter what brand, but get a 2 stroke as your section is pretty steep.'' So he got a 4 stroke, and siezed it on the first day, oil starvation on a slope.
Did my oil change today, and got rid of the preconditioned synthetic, and put in some 5W30. Using a non contact thermometer, a big increase in temp, 10C overall, and in the hotest part of the engine (cam drive) it went from 101C to 114C.
Did my oil change today, and got rid of the preconditioned synthetic, and put in some 5W30. Using a non contact thermometer, a big increase in temp, 10C overall, and in the hotest part of the engine (cam drive) it went from 101C to 114C.
See!ms like a lot of work to remove used oil and replace with used oil.
I know I should just drain it onto the ground...but seeing as I drain it into a container, I don't see that as extra work.
Originally Posted By: Silk
Did my oil change today, and got rid of the preconditioned synthetic, and put in some 5W30. Using a non contact thermometer, a big increase in temp, 10C overall, and in the hotest part of the engine (cam drive) it went from 101C to 114C.
Big jump, isn't it.
Did the old stuff smell like petrol ?
It must have been very very thin.
Did my oil change today, and got rid of the preconditioned synthetic, and put in some 5W30. Using a non contact thermometer, a big increase in temp, 10C overall, and in the hotest part of the engine (cam drive) it went from 101C to 114C.
Big jump, isn't it.
Did the old stuff smell like petrol ?
It must have been very very thin.
- Status
