Right Way to Road Force Balance?

To answer some of your guys questions:

Size is 285/60R20 e-rated LT tires

All of the weights are in the same spot and the sticky type. I thought the values were a little high myself based on some of the articles I've read.
 
Here are some Nissan RF specs, from a 2018 service bulletin.

Nissan Service Bulletin PDF

Screen Shot 2025-05-22 at 6.30.47 PM.webp


Screen Shot 2025-05-22 at 6.35.07 PM.webp
 
Just to follow up: I'm going to give the hub centric rings a try. From my research and the specs on the wheels; there's a large discrepancy. Hub size is 77.8mm and center bore of wheel is 106.2. If the rings don't do the trick; I will likely return the tires and sell the truck. May seem drastic, but if I want that experience, I can hop in my '70 F100 😁

A good reminder to trust your gut; the lift/tires was the only thing I wasn't crazy about on this one. But I convinced myself it would all be no problem.
 
Sort of. They rotate the tire to match the "high" portion of the tire with the "low" portion of the wheel. Road force deals with roundness of everything.

The Hunter screen will actually tell them what to do step by step - you don't need to tell them. However if there under their "failure" value - they will simply stop rather than try to get it better. Time is money.
They don’t do this at Discount tire. I have watched them at several locations. They never break a bead and shift a tire on a wheel to lower road force. My last mount job they did tell me my road force numbers after the wheels were on the cat and they were quite high (20+) mbut they made no effort to lower them. They have the equipment…they don’t have the time or desire.
 
They don’t do this at Discount tire. I have watched them at several locations. They never break a bead and shift a tire on a wheel to lower road force. My last mount job they did tell me my road force numbers after the wheels were on the cat and they were quite high (20+) mbut they made no effort to lower them. They have the equipment…they don’t have the time or desire.
This has been my impression as well; they are just too busy. When they say they will force match if it's "too high", they can't provide a threshold. LT tires may be a bit higher I understand. I talked to another gentleman at a different DT, and his thoughts were that we like it to be under 35 for an LT tire.
 
They don’t do this at Discount tire. I have watched them at several locations. They never break a bead and shift a tire on a wheel to lower road force. My last mount job they did tell me my road force numbers after the wheels were on the cat and they were quite high (20+) mbut they made no effort to lower them. They have the equipment…they don’t have the time or desire.
Yes, like I said - as long as it doesn't exceed there max they stop.
This has been my impression as well; they are just too busy. When they say they will force match if it's "too high", they can't provide a threshold. LT tires may be a bit higher I understand. I talked to another gentleman at a different DT, and his thoughts were that we like it to be under 35 for an LT tire.
I had some General's that went back on warranty (long story). P265/75R16. The ones that went back were 40+

There was one that was 35 they said was "acceptable" - we used it for the spare. The ones they put on were in the 30 ish range, and they were still the worst, most vibraty tires I have ever owned. I wish I had just thrown them out. I will never buy anything from Contintental Automotive again as long as I live.

My current Firestone's are around 20 and very smooth.

I do wonder how much rotating them helps. How far out of round can a modern cast aluminum rim really be?
 
Yes, like I said - as long as it doesn't exceed there max they stop.

I had some General's that went back on warranty (long story). P265/75R16. The ones that went back were 40+

There was one that was 35 they said was "acceptable" - we used it for the spare. The ones they put on were in the 30 ish range, and they were still the worst, most vibraty tires I have ever owned. I wish I had just thrown them out. I will never buy anything from Contintental Automotive again as long as I live.

My current Firestone's are around 20 and very smooth.

I do wonder how much rotating them helps. How far out of round can a modern cast aluminum rim really be?
Completely understandable, that would sour me as well! I find vibration on the highway to be one of the most annoying things; main wants these days are quiet and comfortable.
 
Yes, just go to the Hunter website.

The real problem is the limits that they are told are "OK".
Some cars, like my 1999 Caddy STS was very sensitive to road force (and Buicks of that same era) and you could feel anything over 10 pounds of road force.
Took me forever to convince the tire place to work harder to get it down. Places get under 20 pounds and call iit good.
Same issue on my 2000 Deville. The good enough road force balance at Discount Tire still had a slight shake at 70mph plus. Most shops and probably customers dont care too much about perfection.
 
Yes, like I said - as long as it doesn't exceed there max they stop.

I had some General's that went back on warranty (long story). P265/75R16. The ones that went back were 40+

There was one that was 35 they said was "acceptable" - we used it for the spare. The ones they put on were in the 30 ish range, and they were still the worst, most vibraty tires I have ever owned. I wish I had just thrown them out. I will never buy anything from Contintental Automotive again as long as I live.

My current Firestone's are around 20 and very smooth.

I do wonder how much rotating them helps. How far out of round can a modern cast aluminum rim really be?

Same issue on my 2000 Deville. The good enough road force balance at Discount Tire still had a slight shake at 70mph plus. Most shops and probably customers dont care too much about perfection.
“their maximum” is WAY ABOVE what Hunter recommends for road force. On my low profile high performance tires … above 20 is unacceptable. Discount tire would not break the bead and shift the tire. I went to a wheel repair shop that DID measure the wheel, break the bead and move the tire as the machine indicates…all 4 now below 10 and SMOOTH.
 
“their maximum” is WAY ABOVE what Hunter recommends for road force. On my low profile high performance tires … above 20 is unacceptable. Discount tire would not break the bead and shift the tire. I went to a wheel repair shop that DID measure the wheel, break the bead and move the tire as the machine indicates…all 4 now below 10 and SMOOTH.
Until Discount showed up there were no hunter machines here at all. I called all around. I would be happy to pay shop time for a proper balance.
 
“their maximum” is WAY ABOVE what Hunter recommends for road force. On my low profile high performance tires … above 20 is unacceptable. Discount tire would not break the bead and shift the tire. I went to a wheel repair shop that DID measure the wheel, break the bead and move the tire as the machine indicates…all 4 now below 10 and SMOOTH.

I'm thinking of trying a different DT to see if I can get another location to be more thorough (especially since I wouldn't have to pay). However, if needed the dealer I bought the truck from has the RF. I would have a chat with them beforehand though prior to forking over $80 for them to rebalance.
 
I'm thinking of trying a different DT to see if I can get another location to be more thorough (especially since I wouldn't have to pay). However, if needed the dealer I bought the truck from has the RF. I would have a chat with them beforehand though prior to forking over $80 for them to rebalance.
$80 is less than we got for a regular spin balance when I was at a dealership and that was 12 years ago. When we road forced with the intention of matching the tires and moving them on rims, we made the customer aware that was above and beyond a regular spin balance. We typically got 2 hours of labor approved. If road forces were fine, we only charged them regular balance. Pretty sure a regular balance (and rotate if needed) was about $120, road forced and matching the tires was billed at 2 hours and back then we were like $125 an hour…can’t imagine what they’re at now.
 
The video posted on the first page showed the balancer screen showing a "road force savings" of $76. What is that?

Do all tire shops have this gizmo that measures road force? In Ontario?
 
The video posted on the first page showed the balancer screen showing a "road force savings" of $76. What is that?

Do all tire shops have this gizmo that measures road force? In Ontario?
Savings is not pulling the old weights off to throw away until the balancer tells you it’s out of balance. Most techs pull weights immediately as almost any wheel/tire is out of balance. If you didn’t pull them first, then you’re spinning it 3 times. If you pull the old weights first, you’ll only have to spin twice. When you’re probably only making 0.8 hours or so to rotate and balance tires, you’re going to go as quick as you can and not make that third spin if you can help it.
 
Is it possible, or typical, to get any sort of print-out from the balancer as to the final balance specs on the tires?

I have a pair of tires to mount on rims (215-75-14 on vintage steel magnum rims) and I didn't know about this road force balance so now I'm going to call around but I just don't trust these shops to do this or do it properly if I drop off the tires/rims in the AM and pick them up in the PM. Around here I feel that I need to watch them do it, absolutely zero trust for these places. I'm not a regular garage or dealership customer, I do my own repairs but tire mounting and balancing is something I can't do at home.
 
Savings is not pulling the old weights off to throw away until the balancer tells you it’s out of balance. Most techs pull weights immediately as almost any wheel/tire is out of balance. If you didn’t pull them first, then you’re spinning it 3 times. If you pull the old weights first, you’ll only have to spin twice. When you’re probably only making 0.8 hours or so to rotate and balance tires, you’re going to go as quick as you can and not make that third spin if you can help it.
That's why I always pull all weights before I get new tires.
 
Is it possible, or typical, to get any sort of print-out from the balancer as to the final balance specs on the tires?

I have a pair of tires to mount on rims (215-75-14 on vintage steel magnum rims) and I didn't know about this road force balance so now I'm going to call around but I just don't trust these shops to do this or do it properly if I drop off the tires/rims in the AM and pick them up in the PM. Around here I feel that I need to watch them do it, absolutely zero trust for these places. I'm not a regular garage or dealership customer, I do my own repairs but tire mounting and balancing is something I can't do at home.
Yes, the hunter machine will print out the specs. IF the shop puts paper in it.
 
"What should I tell him to do"?

Give him a twenty and tell him to take extra care of it.

Customers walking in with the expectation that a professional doesn't know his job, or that the customer read something on the internet and knows better, can create a sour experience right from the get-go.
 
Back
Top Bottom