"Right to Repair" required for bikes
- Thread starter Number_35
- Start date
I've rebuilt my ~'01 era Campy shifters. Total cost for both in parts was $100, and $30 of that was brake hoods!
Shimano has NEVER provided parts or pretended to have any interest in doing so.
Campy's stuff is amazing and they sell you parts....I've never fully understood "our" fixation on Shimano and SRAM, as a nation.
I'm still running Record from ~01 on my Serotta.... although the new electric shift stuff is calling my name.....the prices aren't
Looks like it's harder to get parts after '09:
branfordbike.com
Shimano has NEVER provided parts or pretended to have any interest in doing so.
Campy's stuff is amazing and they sell you parts....I've never fully understood "our" fixation on Shimano and SRAM, as a nation.
I'm still running Record from ~01 on my Serotta.... although the new electric shift stuff is calling my name.....the prices aren't
Looks like it's harder to get parts after '09:
Campagnolo Small Parts (1998-2008) — Branford Bike
branfordbike.com
Campy does not sell MTB oriented stuff so that's why they are a non starter for me. Besides the sram stuff on my road bike has worked well for 10 years now.I've rebuilt my ~'01 era Campy shifters. Total cost for both in parts was $100, and $30 of that was brake hoods!
Shimano has NEVER provided parts or pretended to have any interest in doing so.
Campy's stuff is amazing and they sell you parts....I've never fully understood "our" fixation on Shimano and SRAM, as a nation.
I'm still running Record from ~01 on my Serotta.... although the new electric shift stuff is calling my name.....the prices aren't
Looks like it's harder to get parts after '09:
Campagnolo Small Parts (1998-2008) — Branford Bike
Got a link to an online retailer or manufacturer's webpage for the item that you bought?The rear Shimano hydraulic brake caliper on Jr's winter bike (single-speed, 29" studded tires) was leaking. I removed it and took it apart. It's a very simple design, single-piston, with mineral oil serving as the hydraulic fluid. The cylinder and piston looked fine, leaving the O-ring as the culprit. It's different from any O-ring I've ever seen before, though; rather than being round in cross-section, it's square. Nothing like that in my collection.
I did a fair bit of research online, and it looks like replacement O-rings are not available anywhere at any price. So, I bought a new caliper from my closest local bike shop. But they don't sell just the caliper; I had to buy the entire assembly - caliper, brake hose, master cylinder, and brake lever.
I am adding this story to my list of reasons to not buy a bicycle with disc brakes.
Disk brakes are vastly superior than rim brakes. Most designs are pretty solid if you do your maintenance. A little research goes a long way. I couldn't go back to rim brakes on my mountain bike, it would be a giant leap backwards.
My epic has had the same set of Mugura on them for over 10 years now. Every few years I change the mineral oil and every ride I make sure to get the sand fro around the piston seals. Like anything mechanical there are good and bad designs, and there are companies that supply parts and some that don't.
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2020
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- 217
McMaster-Carr has them. It's 26x2mm: https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber-o-r...-buna-n-o-rings/system-of-measurement~metric/
I've been running hyd discs on several different mtn bikes since ~2007. Other than eating pads or needing incessant bleeding I've not had reliability issues.
Trying to avoid discs - at least on mtn bikes - is like trying to avoid them on cars. If you liked the days of four wheel drums, go for it
Trying to avoid discs - at least on mtn bikes - is like trying to avoid them on cars. If you liked the days of four wheel drums, go for it
My Norco Bigfoot had Chang Star cantilever brakes, and a 3 x 5 drivetrain - hot stuff in 1984.
I saw similar in O-rings on distributor shafts - the first time I saw on like that, I assumed it was intentional!
This looks pretty much like the assembly I bought from my LBS. No packaging, just secured with a cable tie. I only used the caliper itself.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I see they've recycled that name then, LOL!
It's good to see that the Bigfoot lives on! Mine was at the low end of bike-shop mountain bikes at the time. I paid C$425. Often regretted not going for the Sasquatch for C$600 - much lighter with better components. By the next year, the Bigfoot was greatly improved, and cheaper. But overall mine was a good bike - I rode it until 2002, when I bought the Rocky Mountain Fusion.
The Bigfoot sat for a few years, and then my son converted it into a single-speed fixi winter bike. He rode it hard for a few years until the frame finally broke.
Norco appears to have come way up in quality since then. Enjoy yours!
Yes, but they make less money if I replace my brakes with something I can get parts for. I'm sure they take all of this into account when deciding whether or not to sell replacement parts.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I do! It's my first fatty and strikes me as quite light and uses pretty good components. Not sure what I'm going to go with for tires once these ones are cooked, but I've got some time yet. It's a very leisurely ride, as I'm sure you are well aware, so much different from traditional mountain biking.
The Bigfoot's a fatty now? Wow! Mine was an early mountain bike - the 2.125" tires it came with were considered crazy fat at the time.
Enjoy fat biking! If I could only keep one bike, it would be my fatty.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
^^^ Is that a California fire break ^^^
This has almost nothing to do with right to repair. Rather it is that there isn't enough perceived consumer demand for anyone to sell individual, low cost parts.
However if you search long enough, and have a caliper to make precise measurements, that washer is out there somewhere as just a washer, not specific to a bicycle assembly.
However if you search long enough, and have a caliper to make precise measurements, that washer is out there somewhere as just a washer, not specific to a bicycle assembly.
Thanks, this is a good resource! My measurements seem to indicate that it's 25 mm O.D. and 21 mm I.D. with a 2 mm thickness.
The caveat here is that it's really hard to measure a soft O-ring with calipers, without compressing it.
The O-ring was still oily, so I laid it on a piece of paper and measured the mark left, which also indicated an O.D. of 25 mm.
I also marked out 25 mm on paper, and laid the O-ring on it for a near-perfect fit.
Here's the o-ring and its oily mark:
Here it is laid on top of a 25 mm spaced mark:
Here it is laid out on a 21 mm mark:
The caliper was preset to 25.0 mm, and seems to fit perfectly:
But here the plot thickens! I did some more reading, and stumbled over a long thread from the UK, wherein a lot of people who'd attempted to repair their Shimano calipers found that replacing the square o-rings (that seal the pistons) was ineffective.
They found that the transfer-port o-ring was leaking. It's the little guy to the lower left, and seals the passage between the two halves. I may have an o-ring (round in cross-section) in stock, and will try it first! To be continued ...
Here it is laid on top of a 25 mm spaced mark:
Here it is laid out on a 21 mm mark:
The caliper was preset to 25.0 mm, and seems to fit perfectly:
But here the plot thickens! I did some more reading, and stumbled over a long thread from the UK, wherein a lot of people who'd attempted to repair their Shimano calipers found that replacing the square o-rings (that seal the pistons) was ineffective.
They found that the transfer-port o-ring was leaking. It's the little guy to the lower left, and seals the passage between the two halves. I may have an o-ring (round in cross-section) in stock, and will try it first! To be continued ...
