Rethinking engine life in general

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With the use of synthetic oil I believed:
100,000 miles = engine broken in
200,000 miles = got my money's worth
300,000 miles = running on borrowed time

I've been with this forum for a while and have learned a lot about today's synthetics. I may readjust my thinking and start spending more money on other parts of my vehicle if my engine will last longer than I originally anticipated.

Is it correct to believe with synthetic oil and relatively short oil change intervals?
150,000 miles = engine broken in
300,000 miles = got my money's worth
450,000 miles = running on borrowed time
 
In the UK cars are scrapped due to rust or in older cars, the cost of new keys when they are lost as that can cost £300 $500. If both are lost. Similar if a big electrical problem and the clever bits need replaced by the dealer due to having to be coded by their kit.

Engine wear as a problem stopped a good few years ago.

eddie
 
I plan on using synthetics for the life of my car.

The reason being is if you gum up the valve train, get sticking in your piston rings, and your fuel economy starts to fall, you are that much closer to scrapping a decent car.

I mean, even up here in Montreal, Quaker State Ultimate Durability is very cheap at WM.

Also, we have really cold weather. The added strain on the battery turning over thick dino just kills your battery faster.

Synthetic oil probably gives you another year life on your car battery, as it requires much less amps to turn over an engine in Winter with synthetic in it.

Synthetic oil are just mass market now, no reason to bother with Dino unless it is a real [censored] box in a warm climate.
 
Originally Posted By: Kool1
With the use of synthetic oil I believed:
100,000 miles = engine broken in
200,000 miles = got my money's worth
300,000 miles = running on borrowed time

I've been with this forum for a while and have learned a lot about today's synthetics. I may readjust my thinking and start spending more money on other parts of my vehicle if my engine will last longer than I originally anticipated.

Is it correct to believe with synthetic oil and relatively short oil change intervals?
150,000 miles = engine broken in
300,000 miles = got my money's worth
450,000 miles = running on borrowed time


It has more to do with the design of then engine than the oil used provided it is changed at a reasonable interval relative to what is determined safe in that engine family and operating conditions/environment.

For example, the GM LSx engines and Ford Modular engines have been proven to last beyond your "borrowed time" range, often on inexpensive conventional oil.
 
With some rare exceptions, the engine on most of today's vehicles is going to be about the last thing to completely fail. So I try to avoid the design problems (like Toyota sludgers or GM gasket blowing coolant suckers) and focus on good maintenance and the rest of the vehicle instead.

I can only think of one vehicle I had to trade out of in over 30 years due to engine problems and it was one of the poor designs that got by me. And I have almost exclusively used dino in that time.
 
I think It matters where you live. The type of driving that the vehicle will encounter obviously matters. What engine design matters. If it requires a Syn for warranty. With the High Quality conventional motor oils available these days, there might be little actual wear difference from using a Mass marketed Syn. Now a High,.. Super High quality Syn like Motul, or Millers could have a bigger difference on wear over 450,000. My 1987 Black Jeep Cherokees 1st year 4.0 currently has 297,788 miles on her original everything, has been run, no I believe thrashed on with Pennzoil 10w30 in Her sump since the 80s up until I got it in 2006 when I started using various brands of HD30 from March thru October, 10w30 November thru February, and she still takes around 7,500 to 8,000 miles to get her oil even Brown colored. Oil dosent turn Black until 10,000miles if I Dare to push it that far. At 300,000, which could be soon, depending what Jeep Im driving the most, Her 4.0 will be torn down, inspected, cleaned, valves lapped, and new gaskets and seals all around,..Im betting the crosshatching is still present, so, pistons/rods might not come out. Then its either Motul 300v 10w-40 Chrono or LiquiMoly 0w-40 LongtTime Plus, and a PureOne. The old PureOnes that were Blue.
 
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I don't buy into the synthetics making engines last longer propaganda,especially the ones that are just de-waxed dinos (Although I use them ocassionally). Paso/ester oils,I couldn't say. Maybe?
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I don't buy into the synthetics making engines last longer propaganda,especially the ones that are just de-waxed dinos (Although I use them ocassionally). Paso/ester oils,I couldn't say. Maybe?

I agree. Syns last longer in service requiring less oil changes over the life of the vehicle however conventionals changed at 5000 miles(or oem spec) will also provide long engine life.
 
I think we focus so much on engine oil that we tend to forget the other important stuff - plugs, PCV valves, proper cleaning of fuel injectors, etc. Oils and engine design have come a long way, and it's not unheard of to get crazy mileage out of a modern engine. The Ford 4.6 comes to mind with all the Crown Vics in police and taxi service - especially in places like NYC.
 
I've had many cars go over 200,000 miles. The engine was never a problem, and always on conventional oil. I don't see a need to use synthetic oil to increase the engine life.
 
I am the original owner of a 2003 Honda CRV which is supposedly easy on oil. It now has 147,000 miles and has a regular diet of synthetic oil since new. The transmission, radiator, and other parts are items that I'm starting to wonder about. If my engine lasts hundreds of thousands of miles I should budget, maintain, and replace certain items in preparation for the long haul. Here in California, rust is not a consideration. The CRV has been very reliable and I really enjoy the vehicle. I am looking forward to a long relationship with the CRV.
 
Rust is a concern for sure! Just found a tiny hole in my 95 Camry in the sig gas fill tube....
 
I am not as optimistic as many of you. Some of the changes in engine designs have brought about less longevity, not more.

For example, I have seen a couple of the Toyota 1zz-fe engines (used in Matrix, Vibe, Corolla) that have failed b/t 100k and 150k miles. This engine was redesigned (cheapened) with an aluminum block and it simply is more problematic than the predecessor. I know there will be examples that will make it past 200k miles but, in generally, you cannot be confident that you will get a long life from this engine. There are many other examples as well where changes like this to decrease weight mean less margin for error.
 
I think engine design has a lot to do with it. And good maintenance. I have owned 40 vehicles in the last 35 years. I have never had to replace an engine due to it being out of service. I had one that was close but it was in a 1957 Chevy PU with 350k on it. I did a V-8 swap on that one as the 6 banger was under powered.
 
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
A car in Upstate New York:

150,000 miles - engine broken in
10 years old - rusted and worthless



Big problem in Canada and Northern USA. You can use
the best oil in the world and your engine will be like
new but the rest of the car is junk. It is far more important
for me to spend a little extra money a year for rust prevention
than to worry about what oil to use.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bandito440
A car in Upstate New York:

150,000 miles - engine broken in
10 years old - rusted and worthless


I am in Albany and am hoping my vehicles last more that 10 years before they rust away. They use plenty of salt around here.

My Jeep is now 12 years old with no visible rust and a reman engine with about 40K on it. Carwell treatments for the last 2 years.

My Dodge Ram is 14 years old and has a few rust bubbles on one front fender. The engine is a diesel and with 180K, its almost broken in. it also has had Carwell treatments. My plan is to order 2 fenders (shipping) and do the rusty one or maybe both at once.

I think in many cases the vehicle get some rust and gets down to the $3K value range and then something significant goes like the transmission and its not worth fixing.

Both vehicles have Amsoil ATF and Magnefine filter. The transfer cases and diff also have Amsoil products. Not sure what more I can do.

I am going for 20 years.
 
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Originally Posted By: 2KBMW
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
A car in Upstate New York:

150,000 miles - engine broken in
10 years old - rusted and worthless



Big problem in Canada and Northern USA. You can use
the best oil in the world and your engine will be like
new but the rest of the car is junk. It is far more important
for me to spend a little extra money a year for rust prevention.


Not quite. Manitoba,Saskatchewan and Alberta use very little salt on the roads. When winter hits we don't get any mild swings in temperature,it stays real cold,so salt is useless really because it freezes over pretty much as fast as it melts.
We use alot of gravel and sand,so rust here is not really an issue. I routinely see early 80's vehicles,trucks especially. The key is dont wash them all winter. No water,no rust.
Ontario was brutal. To start with drivers aren't courteous whatsoever. If you want to merge no one will let you in so signal and go. Everyone's in a hurry and getting to their destination 3 minutes earlier is all that matters.
Here in sask the only idiot drivers I notice are younger. Most adults are courteous and thoughtful and if your signalling for lane change instead of speeding up so you can't get in til they pass they will slow a bit to let you in.
I've driven in every province in the country. Vancouver,Toronto,Montreal are absolutely nuts. Northern Ontario drivers are pretty good but the major centers are hectic.
There are exceptions to my generalizations however I find that they are few.
 
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